questions about a 96 ram 2500 front end

shocker998md

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2007
Location
grantsboro nc
So I just picked up a truck from a member here. 1996 ram 2500 4x4 and this is my first dodge. After some Google foo it seems like all 2nd gen rams have front end issues.

I'm a stickler with my trucks and this loose front end is killing me. I had to get a state inspection and I have an alignment package with a shop so I got an alignment done, tires balanced and the inspection done while I was there. The front end is still loose and ive got a pretty good vibration throughout the entire truck at 45 mph and up. Heres the specs of the truck

1996 ram 2500
dana 60s with Spartan lockers, 4:10s and spyn tec hubs
315/75/16 mud tires, im pretty sure there maxis mudders, truck isn't in front of me right now
Unknown lift, looks like 3-4 inch blocks in the back. No spacers up front so im not really sure whats going on up there.

I just ordered new sway bar bushings, they were SHOT. I don't want to just dump money into parts, the tec that aligned it said I will need to look into the front left wheel bearing so that's a little concerning since the hubs were recently done. I will check it out when I pull the disks off to turn them and put new pads in. Im also going to try running a set of ATs that I have on my ford to see if it may just be the tires.

So I guess my questions would be, aside from having someone steer the front end and I look for slop, jack the front end and do some push pull and what not is there anything else to check out? I think after the swaybar rebuild and popping my ATs on it there will be a night and day difference. I guess I need to do some spyn tec reading on install and see what's going on in there.

On a good note im liking the truck a lot. 4:10s a 360 and a nv4500 is a pretty good combo!
 
The biggest thing would be having someone turn it and watch. Typical areas of suspicion would be track bar, tie rods amd steering gear play. Our basic check would be jack up on side at a time, with a angled pry bar check for play in all directions. If play is present have someone watch for the loose component. Next we'd turn the steering wheel in small movements back and fourth. If the body appears to "move off" the front axle suspect a faulty track bar. About 70% of these trucks we see with a steering wander result in track bar replacement. Vibrations often are u joints be it in the driveshaft or axle joints but consistent vibrations at a specific mph that dont change with acceleration/deceleration are usually a tire issue. If you have trouble finding it pm me and I'll go over what to look for!

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
 
The Spyntec kit just puts regular spindles, conical bearings, and hubs on it. If they're loose, they just need inspected, repacked, and reseated.

Truck probably doesn't have any lift.

I'm betting you'll see absolutely no difference from the sway bar. Wander is coming from the tires, the track bar, or the steering box. Or a combination of the three. That's assuming you don't have bad ball joints or tie rod ends or anything like that.
 
I've owned various Dodge trucks over the years, your may in fact have some issues as many do, but every Dodge I've owned drives and rides like a Dodge. Ford, Chevy, even the bigger Foreign trucks Nissan, and Toyota all ride and track better. But I like the way my truck Drives I don't get sleepy in it like a Cady.
 
I got tired of the bump steer and general slop in the steering. My solution was to replace the entire steering assembly with a '99 (I think) 3500 HD setup. The 96 2500 is a "Y" style, and the 99 3500 a "T" style (true solid tie rod and drag link) and much heavier. The "T" design is far better in terms of all the common issues like uneven tire wear, death wobble, front end shuddering, etc.

I also installed a new trac bar from Thuren, and a steering box brace.

My philosophy is don't just fix - upgrade. It was some cash, but you can save by doing all the work yourself, and the thing is bullet proof.
 
I'm currently "fixing" a known driveline vibe in my Dodge 06 2500. Well as soon as its completely pin pointed, I'm slowly inspecting and going through the whole driveline. I've already addressed a u joint issue and I think I've found the route cause. This time change garbage and getting in well after dark and cold snap this week has slowed progress. But I've narrowed it down and me thinks some custom Pinion angle adjustments are in order. I like the steering upgrade.
 
Steering box slack, panhard bar, and probably some shocks. You're right, those trucks were notorious for front end issues, but they're all pretty easy to fix. You're just over in "the county", so if you ever need a hand, I could help you out.
 
I've got an 01 Ram 2500. The track bar is one of the biggest problems on these trucks. I bought the Moog HD 'problem solver' replacement for my truck. Mine was shot. It helped the wandering.

Try swapping tires front to back maybe. Also try getting them balanced.

If the wheel has movement, then the bearings probably just need to be adjusted.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
I'm currently "fixing" a known driveline vibe in my Dodge 06 2500. Well as soon as its completely pin pointed, I'm slowly inspecting and going through the whole driveline. I've already addressed a u joint issue and I think I've found the route cause. This time change garbage and getting in well after dark and cold snap this week has slowed progress. But I've narrowed it down and me thinks some custom Pinion angle adjustments are in order. I like the steering upgrade.
Click to expand...


You'll never get the pinion angle sorted. The only sure-fire way is to go with a single-piece shaft. With the two-piece, you can get it right for a certain load (rear axle height), but then it changes if you put more or less weight in the bed.
 
I will look into the HD 1 ton stuff. I'd like to be able to get over the counter Moog stuff. I'll report back after I try out my other tires.

Any of y'all know if the 96 would have single piston calipers or dual?
 
I should also mention I've got 374,000 miles. Just replaced one front bearing and it cured a vibration at about 70mph that I would never have thought was the bearing. No movement in the unit bearing at all, just a slight scrapping sound as the wheel turned. Could hardly hear it even on a lift right next to your ear. $130 Timken free shipping from Amazon and do it yourself (watch the axle seal).


Sent from my HP-41C during a flashback to 1978.
 
check out genosgarage.com a great dodge truck parts sight. I used there lukes link to rebuild the tie rod and installed a new track bar and replaced the screw in ball joint ends. The tie rod is the expensive item and the lukes link lets you rebuild the end that cant be replaced. With shocks my truck drives like a new one with the slightest steering wheel movement from the steering box. They also sale new box's but its not enough to worry about.My truck is a 98 3500 I6 with 250,000
 
Like everyone else has already said, the track bar is notorious for play. The reason for that is that it uses the same style joint as a tie rod end. Look into, at minimum, replacing it with a Moog but the best option in my opinion is upgrading to a 3rd gen track bar. The 3rd gen track bar uses a sleeve and bushing on each end with a bolt so it much less like to wear out and fail. You can pick up a used track bar at a salvage yard for about $50 and then all you need is a bracket kit. Or if you're going to beat on the truck, I would go with something like the heavy duty track bar here: http://store.dodgeoffroad.com/
 
Truck will see Uhwarrie two or three times a year. Will pull a trailer the rest of the time. I'm thinking Moog will be fine and if I'm on the road and stuff craps out I can get it at any parts store.
 
Progress!

My tires fixed the vibrations. My left wheel bearing is rocking good and my right one is just starting. It looks like the track bar and the other bar have slop in them.

So it looks like I have a to do list.
 
shawn said:
You'll never get the pinion angle sorted. The only sure-fire way is to go with a single-piece shaft. With the two-piece, you can get it right for a certain load (rear axle height), but then it changes if you put more or less weight in the bed.
Click to expand...

It's a stock single piece shaft. The U joint at the transfer case is 4-5 degrees different than the rear setting still. Loaded it gets worse. The pinion has turned down in the rear and the springs have settled noticeably. The truck was previously owned by a gravel quarry and I also only tow or work with it, so it doesn't see light use ridding around. I have a custom all aluminum tool body on it I built. I'm deciding between fresh packs, custom machined blocks with degree put in em or air bags. Or a combination. My tow weights very greatly between three types of trailers and many various loads. So I'm steering toward custom blocks and adjustable bags. Single rear wheel btw. SORRY FOR the thread highjack to the original poster, man that's a lot of miles. Dodge makes some fairly solid trucks and those miles prove it, but anything will need maintenance with that type of miles! You'll have a solid rebuilt unit in time!
 
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Just don't buy factory replacement wheel bearings for that truck. It doesn't have unit bearings any more!
 
I went through alot of headache trying to fix my front end. Truck had leveling kit and had horrible death wobble. I replaced both unit bearings, added steering box stabilizer, changed trac bar tierods, draglink etc (with master pro), steering stabilizer and even changed the tires. Each time problem would seem better for a very short time then death wobble would return. Then I heard about the 99 hd t style steering. Went to parts store and bought all componets this time moog brand bolted right in. Only thing that dont work is steering staiblizer need to fab new mount. But setup has been on my truck almost a year and not one sign of death wobble. I never did install stabilizer but dont seem to need one. Steering feels tighter also.

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WARRIORWELDING said:
It's a stock single piece shaft. The U joint at the transfer case is 4-5 degrees different than the rear setting still. Loaded it gets worse. The pinion has turned down in the rear and the springs have settled noticeably.
Click to expand...

Ah. That sounds like a pretty different setup from what I've got.
 
I wasn't aware the older Dodge's had 'inverted Y' steering. I don't understand why anyone would design a solid axle steering system to be 'inverted Y'. The toe changes from suspension movement is just dumb. It is most likely cheaper to produce, so the engineers must have been under tremendous pressure at the time to reduce the cost of their components.
 
Well I'm fixing my wheel bearings and doing the ball joints since I'm in there.

What's the scoop on the newer HD stuff? I'll look into it after next payday.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
Just don't buy factory replacement wheel bearings for that truck. It doesn't have unit bearings any more!
Click to expand...

Too late for me, but your saying the newer style will fit the older hub? Do you keep the same rotor? I may need a pic to get it right in my feeble head...


Sent from my HP-41C during a flashback to 1978.
 
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