Questions For Chevy Guys

MichaelT

MichaelT

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2007
Location
Charlotte
I don't really know too much about Chevys. Jeeps have always been my thing. I am considering buying an '89 K5 Blazer. It is in great condition and bone stock. It has a 350, 700R4, NP241, and 10 bolts front and rear. My plans are somewhere in the range of 38's or so and build it streetable but stout. I have heard the 10 bolts are a little weak. What are some options to replace them with that are mostly bolt in b/c I am not the greatest mechanic. Also are there any other weak links that I have not adressed b/c I don't know too much about Chevys. Any advice and info would be appreciated. Thanks -Mike
 
you could upgrade to a 14 bolt full floater rear end and do and 8 lug outer swap on the front axle, the only issue would be that the front axle, while swapped to 3/4 ton outers still is only as strong as a 10 bolt which can't really handle much more than like a 35 maybe a 37x12.50

your only other option beyond a 10 bolt with 3/4 ton outers is going to a 1 ton dana 60 front but then your talking like more than a grand to get it swapped in whereas with a 14 bolt rear and 3/4 ton 10bolt/dana44 front you are looking at 300 to 500 probably depending on what deals you find
 
You planning on riding around on the road or wheeling? If wheeling, then in addition to what is posted above, I would suggest crossover steering and bracing the frame rail at the steering box.
 
Well crud, I typed out a really good response but, it timed out and went blank!:kaioken: Here goes again but, a little shorter so it won't time out!:

Anyways, my build is similar to yours, I have an 87 GMC Jimmy that I'm putting 37"s on at 3" of lift with liberal fender trimming, here's most of my build since it's what I'd recommend to ya:

Front axle: Dana 60 (bolt in)

Rear axle: 14 BFF with discs (IIRC 3/4 ton is bolt in)

Steering: Crossover steering and hydro assist

Frame: weld on and bolt in steering box braces (I went with ORD)

Suspension: Reasonable lift height, rear shackle flip

This part is different 'cause I'm running an SM465, 203/205 but, here's what I do if I were you:

Transfer case: Put a Slip Yoke Eliminator on your 241 and get new driveshafts

Transmission: Get a performance rebuild done on that 700R4!

Anyways, that's my $.02, hope it helps ya/gives ya some food for thought!
 
Sorry about my response being very terse and borderline harsh sounding, I just didn't want it to time out again!:D Anyways, good luck with your build, and post up some pics when ya get a chance!:bronco:
 
i run a dana 44 front axle and the 10 bolt is practically the same axle. if you were wanting to run 38 with a locker and wheel/ dd this thing i suggest running chromoly axles from randy's ring and pinion or somewhere like that, with some dana spicer joints. I run a full size truggy with 38's welded in the front and the only time i ever broke a chromoly shaft was when the ujoint dried out and fell apart both sides did in a matter of 2 days, i am wiser now. so i went aheas and upraded to super joints which are not recomended for road driving they wear out to fast. I also swapped in a 14 FF and converted the front to 8 lug. if i ever do brake something wheeling it won't be the 14 bolt so i know i am at least going to be able to drive out of there in rear wheel drive if nothing else to get me back to the trailer.
 
olejunky said:
i run a dana 44 front axle and the 10 bolt is practically the same axle. if you were wanting to run 38 with a locker and wheel/ dd this thing i suggest running chromoly axles from randy's ring and pinion or somewhere like that, with some dana spicer joints. I run a full size truggy with 38's welded in the front and the only time i ever broke a chromoly shaft was when the ujoint dried out and fell apart both sides did in a matter of 2 days, i am wiser now. so i went aheas and upraded to super joints which are not recomended for road driving they wear out to fast. I also swapped in a 14 FF and converted the front to 8 lug. if i ever do brake something wheeling it won't be the 14 bolt so i know i am at least going to be able to drive out of there in rear wheel drive if nothing else to get me back to the trailer.
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IMO if your gonna spend all that money on a 44/10 bolt you might as well go to a dana 60
 
Diezel said:
Chevys suck, stock 80's 350 with 38's just shoot yourself, you got a lot of work before you lift it that high. get one in bad shape and go at it, Keep that one nice!
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Im just going to assume you have no fucking clue what you are talking about and ignore everything else you say....

It all depends on your usage. I have kept a 3/4 ton 10b alive for 3.5 years with 38.5 boggers. But Im open and I always remember what I have. If i tried the UNF race, I wouldnt survive, etc.

As mentioned go ahead and brace your frame.
A 14b is super cheap and easy insurance, but they are heavy as hell and hang low, I dont mind mine, just pointing out the differences.

Im not sure what that guy is smoking but I run 38.5 with 4" lift and they arent close to touching, I wish I had a lil better flex, but thats all.

Regearing is cheap and easy with most ever Chevy axle.
A SBC is a nice platform and you can literally build them for couch cushion change.
The 700 will be your first casualty, when it goes rebuild it right (you will need 750-1000 in parts, to be right plus labor) ADD AS BIG A COOLER as you can fit, and adjust your TV cable properly and you are good to go.
A D44 is marginally WEAKER than a 10b. I agree with Ricky (OMG OMG OMG the world is ending) I wouldnt drop coin on Chromo axles when you can snag a D60 for $6-700 (if you look hard enough) and its a direct bolt in.
 
I agree on the 60 and 14 bolt Mike, or throw some rockwells under it!
Your gonna have to get this thing before the charlotte race.
 
Thanks for all the input guys this has really helped out a bunch. What vehicles should i look for to pull the 14b ff out of and also the 60. Brandon im gonna try but the financial situation might not have it ready by the race. -Mike
 
K30 ~ 77~86

There are some dodge apps for the d60, but you will move springs
 
Just for the record, I am no damn kin to "Diezel."


Just for the post, change out the "10 broke" to a 60. Personal experience with alloys as an upgrade on a 44 with 38s showed me that alloys allow a harder death. The stockers broke joints, the alloys broke joints AND diff parts when they let go. I got the 44 through almost 5 years with 4 breaks, but the last one was a bit major: short side joint, Detroit, ring and pinion. Before that, I'd have bet the hub woulda gone first.
 
ricky, i hope that you can convince everyone to run rockwells, so then i can get tons for the price of d44s...

plus rockwells would require alot more lift and wouldnt be worth it for 38s...

id say go 10b & 14b unless you get a good deal on a front 60
 
Thats what i'm probably gonna do with the 10b and 14b untill i break the 10b. Is it a lot of work to convert the front to 8 lug?
 
well you could..
But what I think he was asking was buy 3/4 ton axles...


Its a bolt in swap

Ricky has penis envy on Rockwells. The axles are about the same price and 1tons. it costs 3x as much to install them PROPERLY.
In addition the ck5.com tryout CarolinaK5.com ...nicer folks and FREE>..
 
SkyHiK5 said:
Ricky has penis envy on Rockwells. The axles are about the same price and 1tons. it costs 3x as much to install them PROPERLY.
In addition the ck5.com tryout CarolinaK5.com ...nicer folks and FREE>..
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What do you mean Penis envy :flipoff2:


My junk is on ROCKdubs, aint no envying nothin . . . . well I do envy those 10 ton axles, or the zf planetary axles, or 66" tires which If I had I would seriously run right now :driver:
 
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