- Joined
- Mar 24, 2005
- Location
- Stanley, NC
Lets assume the round hole is 1" diameter, and the round peg is 1" diameter and 1" long. Lay it in the square hole sideways. And stay away from purple triangles.
Random pic thread.
- Thread starter MadAR15
- Start date
Naw, I get that. But that's a round peg in a square hole. Try a square peg in a round hole - the classic conundrum.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2005
- Location
- Stanley, NC
You're refusing to reorient your perspective, and I'm offended
RatLabGuy
You look like a monkey and smell like one too
- Joined
- May 18, 2005
- Location
- Churchville, MD
Ah but the point is, I can make a "square peg" out of a piece of round stock, that is turned sideways, as mentioned. It's square in one (well 2 really) dimension.You're refusing to reorient your perspective, and I'm offended
So if you take that peg, which has been defined as square, and reorient it, it's will fit right through the hole.
Sometimes the square peg/round hole problem is just a matter of having the correct kind of square peg.
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2005
- Location
- Sharon, SC
Maybe you just need a bigger hammer
ManglerYJ
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2005
- Location
- Lexington, NC
I've never understood how they can call it a "square peg". A square is 2 dimensional - a peg is three dimensional.
Wes
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2007
- Location
- Ridgeway, SC
Fine, a cube peg.
frankenyoter
No Rain, No Rainbow
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2009
- Location
- DARK CITY
That's good charcoal
frankenyoter
No Rain, No Rainbow
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2009
- Location
- DARK CITY
First fishing pole. Zebco 404 special. 
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2005
- Location
- Hendersonville, NC
Happy birthday Jasper!
He got 4 chewy toys, 3 walks, a Pup Cup from Sweet Frog and some turkey for dinner. Not a bad day lil buddy.
He got 4 chewy toys, 3 walks, a Pup Cup from Sweet Frog and some turkey for dinner. Not a bad day lil buddy.
mbalbritton
#@$%!
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2005
- Location
- Lakeland, FL
ManglerYJ
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2005
- Location
- Lexington, NC
RobMcBee
Slow n easy when you're not gettin greasy....
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2009
- Location
- Fort Mill / Indian Land SC
Fabrik8
Overcomplicator
- Joined
- May 27, 2015
- Location
- Huntersville
Some nerdy staircase ramblings and opinions (some opinions are educated opinions, some probably not):
The placement shouldn't matter. Tension doesn't care about where the lockwasher is, because tension is acting on both nuts. If you're thinking the load of someone on the stair tread would determine the side of placement, I would intuitively think that you'd want it on the top nut instead of the bottom. The top nut would theoretically reduce clamp load with weight on the tread, but the bottom nut would theoretically increase clamp load with weight on the stair tread. Theoretically that means the top washer needs a lock washer more than the bottom nut, as the percentage change (from max to min load) is theoretically larger on the top nut for the same change in tread load. That becomes even worse if the wood starts to creep/compress and lose joint tension. I'm starting to confuse myself on that point. Theoretically.
Regardless, if either nut loses tension then they both lose tension, and that bottom one is the one you obviously don't want to back off.
Doesn't someone on here do a lot of bolted joint design? We need answers here, staircases are serious stuff.
I'd use blue, because blue is still overkill and it's a lot easier to release blue than it is to take a torch to the staircase to release the red if it needs repairs.
Why do you need two lockwashers? If the joint is done properly, meaning the threaded rod is under tension between the two nuts, a second lockwasher doens't have any function.
If you consider a split lockwasher as a spring (because it's supposed to compress and apply spring tension), two split lockwashers in series are like two springs in series, which is half the spring rate of a single split washer. I know that's the case with a Belleville washer.
I'd use distorted thread locknuts, because they look cooler and you can get them in the same types of finishes as the rods/bolts. It's a house, so aesthetics are just as important as the small amount of vibration caused by people walking up and down stairs. You can get poly locks in stainless though, so that's a tough decision because they're so cheap compared to anything with distorted threads.
Even though the picture is blurry at the wall distance, it still looks like a plate with bolts through it. That would make me infer that it's the common L-bracket bolted to the wall that I keep seeing in this type of design on the interwebz and architecture magazines.
I think those treads are bigger than they look, if they're made to standard size. I bet they did that because using two per tread was too far apart to meet the open area requirements for code..? Hard to say without dimensions.
I don't really believe that split locks actually work well at all as a lockwasher, and there is a lot of proof to back that up except with very light bolt loads. I also have some strong feelings about using a split lock on top of a flat washer.
Out of curiosity, why do you think the wood is loaded in the wrong direction? It looks like the grain is along the width of the tread, and obviously would be loaded in bending because it's a stair tread. Those plates are definitely needed at the ends, that's for sure.
Need another beer, that took too long to write.
The placement shouldn't matter. Tension doesn't care about where the lockwasher is, because tension is acting on both nuts. If you're thinking the load of someone on the stair tread would determine the side of placement, I would intuitively think that you'd want it on the top nut instead of the bottom. The top nut would theoretically reduce clamp load with weight on the tread, but the bottom nut would theoretically increase clamp load with weight on the stair tread. Theoretically that means the top washer needs a lock washer more than the bottom nut, as the percentage change (from max to min load) is theoretically larger on the top nut for the same change in tread load. That becomes even worse if the wood starts to creep/compress and lose joint tension. I'm starting to confuse myself on that point. Theoretically.
Regardless, if either nut loses tension then they both lose tension, and that bottom one is the one you obviously don't want to back off.
Doesn't someone on here do a lot of bolted joint design? We need answers here, staircases are serious stuff.
I'd use blue, because blue is still overkill and it's a lot easier to release blue than it is to take a torch to the staircase to release the red if it needs repairs.
Why do you need two lockwashers? If the joint is done properly, meaning the threaded rod is under tension between the two nuts, a second lockwasher doens't have any function.
If you consider a split lockwasher as a spring (because it's supposed to compress and apply spring tension), two split lockwashers in series are like two springs in series, which is half the spring rate of a single split washer. I know that's the case with a Belleville washer.
I'd use distorted thread locknuts, because they look cooler and you can get them in the same types of finishes as the rods/bolts. It's a house, so aesthetics are just as important as the small amount of vibration caused by people walking up and down stairs. You can get poly locks in stainless though, so that's a tough decision because they're so cheap compared to anything with distorted threads.
Even though the picture is blurry at the wall distance, it still looks like a plate with bolts through it. That would make me infer that it's the common L-bracket bolted to the wall that I keep seeing in this type of design on the interwebz and architecture magazines.
I think those treads are bigger than they look, if they're made to standard size. I bet they did that because using two per tread was too far apart to meet the open area requirements for code..? Hard to say without dimensions.
I don't really believe that split locks actually work well at all as a lockwasher, and there is a lot of proof to back that up except with very light bolt loads. I also have some strong feelings about using a split lock on top of a flat washer.
Out of curiosity, why do you think the wood is loaded in the wrong direction? It looks like the grain is along the width of the tread, and obviously would be loaded in bending because it's a stair tread. Those plates are definitely needed at the ends, that's for sure.
Need another beer, that took too long to write.
Last edited:
catfishblues
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2005
- Location
- Pfafftown, NC
What are the guys supposed to drink, though?
mbalbritton
#@$%!
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2005
- Location
- Lakeland, FL
The Tin roof is natural weather. I wire wheeled, it and cleaned it. The wood is faux finish.
RatLabGuy
You look like a monkey and smell like one too
- Joined
- May 18, 2005
- Location
- Churchville, MD
Design matters
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2005
- Location
- Stanley, NC
Saw another yard bird today. Tried to hit her with a rock, but who am I kidding.
Fabrik8
Overcomplicator
- Joined
- May 27, 2015
- Location
- Huntersville
If you can hit a turkey in the head with a thrown rock, I'm pretty sure I would buy you some sort of prize.
Last edited:
VortecJeep
Powered by Uranium-235
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2005
- Location
- Concord, NC
Give @Dylan W. an orange, he'll show you how it's done!
mommucked
Endeavoring to persevere
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2011
- Location
- Rural Apex n.c.
She's probly got a nest/eggs or chicks nearby and was trying to get you to chase/follow her away from them. They may feign a broken wing, hop up and down, swing their heads around and flop on the ground as if they are injured while all the time moving away from her offspring and luring predators away from them.
