Rear Caliper Issues

brandon.

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2013
Location
Raleigh
I recently bought a 1991 Wrangler with a ford dana 60 swapped in the rear. It has a disk brake conversion using 77 Cadillac eldorado rear calipers and pads/rotors from a early 80's Chevy k20. Both rear pads were worn and soon after I got it the passenger rear rotor started grooving. I went today to replace the pads and rotors but can't compress the caliper piston at all. I tried opening the bleeder valve but I'm still unable to compress the piston using a c-clamp. I also tried turning the piston but couldn't get either to turn. Am I going to have to replace the calipers or is there some way to get them to compress?
 
I was trying with a 6 inch c-clamp and i bent the metal rod at the bottom of the screw trying to get it in. I would think it would be odd for both to seize up at the same time. Would it be worth it for me to rent the autozone tool that compresses and rotates them at the same time?
 
Never gotten into them, but have heard of problems with the parking brake, lever/cable/do-thingy. Is that unhooked & working freely? Otherwise, I would guess the piston is stuck. Maybe cocked sideways, or too far out,& jammed. Just guessing here!
 
rodney eppes said:
Never gotten into them, but have heard of problems with the parking brake, lever/cable/do-thingy. Is that unhooked & working freely? Otherwise, I would guess the piston is stuck. Maybe cocked sideways, or too far out,& jammed. Just guessing here!
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I made sure it was on the off side and the wire is disconnected so unless there is an issue inside with the parking brake it should be off. The passenger side one is definitely further out but I can't even get the driver side rear to compress.
 
I'll rent and try the tool tomorrow when I get time then and I suppose if that doesn't work it will be time to order new calipers.
 
Alright so I got the autozone tool and it didn't help but then I decided to pull off the caliper and drain the fluid. I still couldn't compress the piston so I pulled off the ebrake lever on teh back and undid the ebrake part and suddenly it was easy to compress all the way. I also noticed even when it was stuck out i could pull the ebrake lever and the piston would come out more but not return. Is this a fault of hte ebrake part of the caliper? It seems like somehow it is pushing the piston out but not allowing it to return. It would also explain why the brakes wore out so quickly. Any ideas on if this is the issue or how to fix it?
 
I once had an Olds Cutlass, maybe 83?. pushed down the park brake one day, & it wouldn't release. I never did get a look at it, but my mechanic said it took a tool that screwed something back in.
The pads had worn out & let the adjuster run out too far. Guess that is what that was, but it's the only one I ever heard of.
 
dkrajcovic said:
no no no DO NOT USE A C CLAMP
you will need a tool that turns it & compesses it at the same time
go to autozone & do the loan-a-tool
hope you did not aready mess it up
like this one
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...r-tool-set/_/N-264a?itemIdentifier=298604_0_0_
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That's funny, the tool you linked says it pushes piston straight back. :D

The trouble I could see someone getting into using a C clamp is if they grab it by the edge of the piston and end up not pushing it straight back. I've used c clamps successfully before, but I also put the old brake pad between the the clamp and piston.

I won't argue that the tool you linked isn't better. It is, but unless its something specific about THAT caliper, like it rotates in and out, then a c clamp works great for compressing pistons if you use them right.
 
I use a 6 inch c clamp every time, I beleive I saw a Ford where it was a screw in piston and Guy In my shop had a special tool. Probably is just the screw types are bad to use c clamp on.

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Cory said:
I use a 6 inch c clamp every time, I beleive I saw a Ford where it was a screw in piston and Guy In my shop had a special tool. Probably is just the screw types are bad to use c clamp on.

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Yep, only screw in types are in danger lol. It was just another way to make techs spend more money. I think the snap on set I've got was $300. You can buy a cheap "box" that will turn it while you manually push it back in.

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mbalbritton said:
That's funny, the tool you linked says it . :D

The trouble I could see someone getting into using a C clamp is if they grab it by the edge of the piston and end up not pushing it straight back. I've used c clamps successfully before, but I also put the old brake pad between the the clamp and piston.

I won't argue that the tool you linked isn't better. It is, but unless its something specific about THAT caliper, like it rotates in and out, then a c clamp works great for compressing pistons if you use them right.
Click to expand...


Thats funny that you only read what you want to read & yes it does push the piston straight back but read the bold
for rear calipers with built in self-adjusting parking brakes you must push the piston straight back & rotate the piston at the same time

Features & Benefits
OEM automotive specialty tools are designed to perform day after day in any environment. Our engineers design tools that maximize both performance and budget. OEM tools out-perform the competition time after time.
  • Assists in the replacement of brake pads on most 4 wheel disc brake cars
  • Forces the piston straight back into the caliper
  • Rotates the pistons back into the caliper on vehicles with self-adjusting parking brakes
  • Sturdy molded plastic storage/carry case
hope this helps
 
Last edited:
I rented the tool but the piston wouldn't actually rotate, it went back in straight when i pulled the lever off the ebrake part and allowed that part to rotate itself.
 
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