Rear driveshaft u-joint issue

Was able to do a little work. Got the skid plate out and won't have to use the "fabbed" t-case drop anymore. Need to clean the frame up here as well. Going to try and get the rear half of the t-case off tonight. Or get the fuel pump retaining ring back on with the new pump. Stupid thing keeps getting crooked, lol.

Looking at the frame where the skid attaches, should I get it reinforced where the bolts go, or does it look ok? I didn't have any problem getting the bolts out.
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I would give a few wraps with a hammer along that length of the frame. If there’s rust issues you’ll hear the difference in sound. Sounds the same down each frame rail. Hit is with the wire wheel or flap disc and coat it with rustoleum tractor enamel and roll out!
 
Thoughts on the pinion angle? To me, it looks low, but with my measuring tape pointed from the yoke to the t-case it looks high. Best I can tell the axle yoke is 15° and with the measuring tape at the same angle (as best I can) it points about an inch higher than the center of the t-case yoke. No, I don't have a straight edge and the closest thing I have is a 1"x6" piece of wood that at least spans the distance between the center of the yokes, not the outer mounting edges.[emoji849] I know, lame. Is it close enough to at least get measurements for the driveshaft, ooorrrrr.....no?
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RubiconBear said:
Thoughts on the pinion angle? To me, it looks low, but with my measuring tape pointed from the yoke to the t-case it looks high. Best I can tell the axle yoke is 15° and with the measuring tape at the same angle (as best I can) it points about an inch higher than the center of the t-case yoke. No, I don't have a straight edge and the closest thing I have is a 1"x6" piece of wood that at least spans the distance between the center of the yokes, not the outer mounting edges.[emoji849] I know, lame. Is it close enough to at least get measurements for the driveshaft, ooorrrrr.....no?
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You will need to set the driveshaft angle with weight on the axle. Can't do it with the frame supported by jack stands and the axle drooping.
 
Jody Treadway said:
You will need to set the driveshaft angle with weight on the axle. Can't do it with the frame supported by jack stands and the axle drooping.
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Gotcha. The axle is on the ground, but yeah, it's up some with those stands. I did that to get the springs out to make the initial setting of the control arms easier. I'll throw the springs back in and set it down.
I put they old gas tank skid in to make sure the diff cover and Trac bar don't hit. Thanks man. I almost had to come borrow that fuel pump retainer ring tool you have, but I FINALLY got that stupid ring on.
 
You need a new yoke on the rear axle.
 
I'm stopping work for the night, but a question for when I start back tomorrow. I'm replacing the rear shock bushings, but the bushings haven't got here yet. Do I need the shocks in to set the pinion angle, or is it ok worth just the springs in?
 
Nope, sockss aren't needed. Just the springs and weight set down on the springs. You can set both axles on stands at the same height if it helps you get under it to check angles and what not. Just jounce the body a couple times to settle it.
 
Both of our Jeeps had issues with the shocks hitting the coil buckets after the SYE. I had to cut notches out of the buckets.
 
shawn said:
Both of our Jeeps had issues with the shocks hitting the coil buckets after the SYE. I had to cut notches out of the buckets.
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Yeah, I've read that as well. That's the main reason I'm replacing the bushings, I'm going to just flip the shocks. If it rides horrible, then I'll flip them back and cut the buckets of needed. Though I found out while looking for the correct bushings that the shocks are for 69-72 Blazers, and are Skyjackers.[emoji849]
 
Ok, got the new bump stops in (old one's were non-existent) and the springs. Sitting on its own weight, with the rear axle centered as best as I can tell. I'm getting 18.25" from yoke to yoke. Does that seem about right? Just seems short to me. The original one measured about an inch shorter than that from center of u-joint to end of slip yoke.
 
Placed my order with @Oliver's. Did it over the phone to make sure I was measuring right. Can't wait to get the driveshaft. Shock bushings should be here in the next couple days.
Also went ahead and ordered an IRO rear adjustable track bar. There was a bracket on when I bought if for the lift. I got the angled bracket to account for the pinion angle, but the stock track bar isn't really wanting to go in.
Going to try and change the rear axle yoke tonight and re-remove the skid plate so I can get it painted.
 
Accomplished my last paragraph. New rear axle pinion seal, yoke and nut replaced. Skid plate back out for paint.
 
Shocks, track bar and gas tank/skid back in. Driveshaft should be here Monday. Debating on going ahead and installing the muffler and tailpipe, just didn't want them in the way if I have to readjust the control arms. That's the only two things left, besides putting some gas in the tank and cleaning it up some. Have to reinstall the fender flares, too. At least the frontsfor the turn signals. One of the POs really messed up the nutserts, left some big holes.[emoji35]
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Oh yeah, and reattach sway bar links. Here's a pic of a couple of the nutsert holes. That's after me trying to work on them a little, but I don't have body hammers. The front fenders are almost a bad, and there's 2-3 nutserts still in the body, but with broken screws in them.[emoji849]
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Done! (Except for the fender flares) The good Lord helped me finish tonight. Everything tightened and where it needs to be. Shout out to FedEx and @Oliver's for the driveshaft. Oliver's sent it out yesterday morning and I had it at 1:30 today. When I got the teaching number it said Monday. I put it in and, according to my app that was suggested I get, the driveshaft is 73° and the axle is 72°.
I put some had in it that I had poured out of the tank to begin work and drive to the gas station. Everything felt good, just had the burning smell of the new exhaust. I felt a little rhythmic vibration a little over 70, but I'll drive it a bit and see if things settle at all and if I need to adjust it. It's nothing like it was. Good to be driving it again.[emoji41]
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Well dang. Of course it happens when I go to TN and not at home. Just hope I call limp it back tomorrow. Oliver's is going to build another and ship it tomorrow, so I'll have it by Friday. Snap ring came out for some reason.
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RubiconBear said:
Well dang. Of course it happens when I go to TN and not at home. Just hope I call limp it back tomorrow. Oliver's is going to build another and ship it tomorrow, so I'll have it by Friday. Snap ring came out for some reason.
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If you look at the previous picture it looks like it was missing in that picture.. check on your original of that photo.
 
It definitely was!
 
Holy cow. Smh, I wished I would have noticed that. I drove it about 100 miles since I put it in Saturday.
 
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