Rear DS opinions

ghost

ghost

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 25, 2006
Location
Hartsville/Camden,SC
So apparently I tweaked my rear at The Shop. Slight bend in the shaft. It's a 1310 DC shaft. Yes I do drive this pig on the road and around the service roads at URE when its tagged. Looks like with my lift and length the driveshaft shop is telling me at full flex I'm at the limit of 26 deg on the 1310. They are recommending a step up to 1350. Says it will give me more angle and more strength. Truth? Thoughts?
 
Last edited:
ghost said:
So apparently I tweaked my rear at the shop. Slight bend in the shaft. It's a 1310 DC shaft. Yes I do drive this pig on the road and around the service roads at URE when its tagged. Looks like with my lift and length the shop is telling me at full flex I'm at the limit of 26 deg on the 1310. They are recommending a step up to 1350. Says it will give me more angle and more strength. Truth? Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Go straight to 1410. 1350 has substantially less operating angle than 1410. Pay a little more up front and be done with it.
This from someone who didn't take his own advice and has a $450 1350 shaft collecting dust on his shelf.
 
I run 1350 non CV on mine with no issues, but I've got a really low ride height. Like Jody said you might as well go ahead and jump to 1410 since you're buying a new yoke and driveshaft anyways.
 
Carolina Driveline or @Oliver's can both make you a custom one equal to or better than the Tom Wood's version.
And they are local and sponsors.
 
Lurch830 said:
Might want to look at Tom Woods Super Flex Joints...
Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist
Click to expand...
Don't run superflex joints on the rear shaft unless you plan on staying below 20 mph!

I ran those for years on my rig on the front shaft before I did the doubler. Of course hubs unlocked, 2wd was fine, hubs locked 2wd got a slight vibration around 45mph but was still drivable up to 60 which is as fast as I'm comfortable driving my pile anyway. In fwd (twin sticked) or 4wd with power on them it would shake the truck apart over 25 mph. 15-20 was drivable with some vibration. 15 and slower was fine.

X 3 or whatever on 1410.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
As long as there's no diameter restrictions on the driveshaft itself, go with 3" .250+ chromo. Between the shaft with 1410s and the yokes you'll be in it for close to $1000.
I've seen the way you drive so..... :flipoff2:
 
Lurch830 said:
Might want to look at Tom Woods Super Flex Joints...
Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist
Click to expand...

I broke his the first trip out. Twisted the double cardian. I broke his shaft at least 2 other times after that. Decided last year to try a local and got one from Carolina Driveline. I've been emailing with them. When I first found the break I thought it was a failure but after closer inspection I dented the shaft up at the Shop and this past weekend at Broken Nut it let go.

Ron said:
Carolina Driveline or @Oliver's can both make you a custom one equal to or better than the Tom Wood's version.
And they are local and sponsors.
Click to expand...

CD said they could not do a 1410 on the 205. They also said the needed measurements of the seal and yoke. (Going off memory from my email today.) I have a spare so I'll likely through that one in until next month and I get some spare cash to fix it right. I'm thinking 1410 is the way to go since I am dreaming of a stroke or 5.9 swap. Thanks guys. I'll look up Olivers in the am.
 
Of course you can do a 1410 yoke on a 205....why would they say you couldn't?
 
Croatan_Kid said:
Of course you can do a 1410 yoke on a 205....why would they say you couldn't?
Click to expand...
Just looked they said "We won't offer one in a 1410. The issue is the yoke or flange you may need for the 205." IDK maybe there is not a 1410 DC yoke for the 205? I'm 1410 illiterate. I'll look in the am when I get up. I'm in no hurry just researching to try and get this fixed once and for all.
 
Double cardan...maybe not, but you can do a flat flange with a bolt on 1410CV or just run a single 1410 on each end. They allow something like 37 degrees of operating angle.
 
Do you need a CV shaft? Straight shafts are stronger than CV/ double cardan shafts.
This is your rear DS, correct? I can't imagine you needing a DC 1410 rear unless it has like 30" of lift
 
Jody Treadway said:
Do you need a CV shaft? Straight shafts are stronger than CV/ double cardan shafts.
This is your rear DS, correct? I can't imagine you needing a DC 1410 rear unless it has like 30" of lift
Click to expand...
Rear yes. No I guess a CV shaft is not needed. I would like to 4 link one day. But that is a ways off.
 
Jody Treadway said:
You'll have zero issues getting 1410 yokes for that 205 and whatever rear axle you have.
Go 1410 and never look back

@Oliver's has given me nothing but excellent customer service for many years. I run them myself and only install their shafts here at the shop.
Click to expand...

Thanks let me see what they say at Carolina and if they are not up to my satisfaction I'll give oliver's a call.
 
We have 1410 32 spline yokes on the shelf. Like Jody said you can get a 1410 for just about any rear axle, except a 9" Ford.

We talk to Carolina once a week or so, they have some new help, so if don't get the answer you are looking for ask for Tom.

Dave
 
Oliver's said:
We have 1410 32 spline yokes on the shelf. Like Jody said you can get a 1410 for just about any rear axle, except a 9" Ford.

We talk to Carolina once a week or so, they have some new help, so if don't get the answer you are looking for ask for Tom.

Dave
Click to expand...


Was reading the thread and about to post the same thing.
Haven't needed a DS made in quite a while, and Tom has always been ery good to me and close. That said when my street rod is ready for a drive shaft in umpteen months. Dave( @Oliver's ) wil get my business for this precise reason.
 
First trip went well. Played at Broken Nut this past weekend. This shaft seems to have a lot more vibration than I'm use to which I expected. I'm thinking I need to add a rear 205 mount. Any suggestions?
I found this one: DIY 4x :: Drivetrain :: 205 Tcase mounting kit

Oh and this one: NP205

Not sure I understand how that NWF one mounts.
 
Do your angles match? The extra mount on the 205 just helps with the gravity load of the t-case, and helps control rotation of the case due to torque loading. Neither one will have an effect on the rear driveline angles.
 
ghost said:
First trip went well. Played at Broken Nut this past weekend. This shaft seems to have a lot more vibration than I'm use to which I expected. I'm thinking I need to add a rear 205 mount. Any suggestions?
I found this one: DIY 4x :: Drivetrain :: 205 Tcase mounting kit

Oh and this one: NP205

Not sure I understand how that NWF one mounts.
Click to expand...

The NWF one mounts onto the tail housing of the transfer case. I have one like that on my Atlas.

Check out Beyond Precise Fabrication and Machine on Facebook. They make a bad ass mount for the 205 (they only show a picture of a passenger drop 205, maybe they make one for driver too).
 
Last edited:
Back
Top