Rear Main Seal on 4.0L

tsconver

tsconver

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2007
Location
Durham, NC
Replaced my rear main seal but it appears to be still leaking. Anyone know a shop in the rtp area that will do it for the actual 2 hours it takes versus the 4.5 to 5.5 hours from the book? May try it again, any tips on getting it leak free?

I am sure it is my rear seal put some dye in it and it is clearly coming from the rear seal and since the oil level in the pan is lower than the pan gasket and it only leaks when running it has to be the rear main.
 
Did you use the little plastic protector when installing the upper seal? I usually roll the crank to help spin the seal in while holding the seal against the crank. Sealer on the mating halves?
 
a_kelley said:
Did you use the little plastic protector when installing the upper seal? I usually roll the crank to help spin the seal in while holding the seal against the crank. Sealer on the mating halves?
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Did not use the protector, was not sure what it was for. Is it to protect the seal from the sharp edge of the block, i did notice a small sliver of seal shaved off. Hoped it would not impact it. Did use rtv on the mating surfaces.
 
Yes it's to protect the backside of the seal. Also supposed to remove burrs from the block groove but I never have. Groove faces the front of the motor also.
 
I'll be doing this soon too. Give all the tips you can when done please..
 
shawn said:
Are you sure it's not the valve cover gasket? Hard to tell them apart sometimes.
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I am positive. I used dye. The engine is dry on top just normal build up and when it is running you can see a small stream of leak fluid glowing coming right out of the area between the crank out put flange and back of the oil pan. 100% confident it is the rear seal again. It is a steady stream from the exact middle of the oil pan real seal. not a drop of dyed fluid anywhere else on the back of the motor. Pretty sure I would see it coming down the bell housing.
 
I'm no help, then. I always roll the top in place, pull out the little liner, couple dabs of RTV, and put the cap back on. Couple dabs at the corners of the oil pan, and use the fancy pan gasket with the ribs and liner.
 
Well a friend came over and we got the rear seal back in. Used grease to slide the seals in and mopar anaerobic gasket maker on the main bearing cap mating surfaces. Ran it for a good ten minutes and it looks to be fixed.
 
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