Removing an old school rope seal.

[skyhighZJ]

My dad is working on a 1955 Ford Y-block and when it was at the machine shop and rebuilt 20 years ago, they assembled the short block for my dad to include the rear main seal installed as a factory original rope seal. Things happened and life changed, and the car and project has sat for the better part of 20 years, everything has been inside a climate controlled building. My dad has now began to rework the project. He removed the heads and the oil pan to ensure that there was no formation of rust on anything re-lubed all parts that he could get to and has since started the engine. Everything is going absolutely fine to include compression oil, pressure and temperature, but he is having an issue of a leaky rear main seal. He lifted up the transmission just enough and was able to work the oil pan out from underneath the engine and found that the rear cap does in fact hold an oem, original style rope seal as opposed to a newer upgraded rubber seal does anybody have any idea how to push the upper rope seal up and over the crankshaft and then replace it with a new style neoprene or rubber seal? Yes the old blue rtv will be fully cleaned and new goo will be used.


- think replacing a 2 piece in the rear of a Jeep 4.0 except this is a rope that needs pushed out not a newer conventional seal.

Any ideas would be great. Thanks.

 

[BigSouth]

My dad is working on a 1955 Ford Y-block and when it was at the machine shop and rebuilt 20 years ago, they assembled the short block for my dad to include the rear main seal installed as a factory original rope seal. Things happened and life changed, and the car and project has sat for the better part of 20 years, everything has been inside a climate controlled building. My dad has now began to rework the project. He removed the heads and the oil pan to ensure that there was no formation of rust on anything re-lubed all parts that he could get to and has since started the engine. Everything is going absolutely fine to include compression oil, pressure and temperature, but he is having an issue of a leaky rear main seal. He lifted up the transmission just enough and was able to work the oil pan out from underneath the engine and found that the rear cap does in fact hold an oem, original style rope seal as opposed to a newer upgraded rubber seal does anybody have any idea how to push the upper rope seal up and over the crankshaft and then replace it with a new style neoprene or rubber seal? Yes the old blue rtv will be fully cleaned and new goo will be used.


- think replacing a 2 piece in the rear of a Jeep 4.0 except this is a rope that needs pushed out not a newer conventional seal.

Any ideas would be great. Thanks.View attachment 387412View attachment 387413View attachment 387414

No experience with rope main seals, but that stuff looks a lot like the stuff we use to pack valve stems and pump casings with. We use a packing removal tool to pull out the old stuff. Looks like this.

 

[rodney eppes]

She ain't easy, but you will probably have to do this: Loosen all the bearing caps, a couple - three turns, to let the crank have some free play. Might even prize down on the crank, to loosen it. Just be careful Where you pry! Get some stiff wire, like old coat hanger or brazen rod. Maybe cut into 6 "s, or so. Maybe even a small flat end punch, to work the end of the rope. Be Sure, to keep punch or wire, in the Groove, so as to not damage any bearing surface. Just going to have to tap tap tap, to get it started walking around the grove. It you get enough out, you might can grab it with pliers to pull on out. Once it breaks loose, it will move easier. You might even have to rotate the crank, in the direction you are pushing the rope. When you get it out, be Sure the groove is clear & Clean. Some of the rope may break off & stick. The bendable wire will work around the groove, helping you clean it. The New neoprene seal will slide in easy, with some oil or grease on it. Torque the bearing caps back down! Good Luck! [That tool, is helpful, if you could ever find one. But you Still have to have a loose end, to Pull on.]

 

[Blue CJ]

Google Lisle tools sneaky Pete tool

 

[Infamous1]

I used to run a course threaded screw in them and work them out with pliers. You cant really hurt anything as long as you stay in the grove plus you have both ends to work wit. Being a "new" seal it should stay together while you snatch on it.

 

[Mac5005]