Replacing XJ CPS.

Best done with laying on the ground behind the drivers front tire, get lots of extensions (12", 6", 3") and the universal wobbler socket. Duct tape the wobbler socket so it flexes a little but doesn't totally flop around. I can't remember if I use the 1/4" drive or 3/8", its tight. There are different versions of the kickdown bracket on the side of the AW4, one of them gets in the way. You can "shoot the gap" with all the ratchet extensions right along the flywheel housing if the wrong AW4 bracket isn't in the way.
I think the 2 bolts are 12pt. Don't drop them in the bellhsg. They are special shoulder bolts so you don't want to lose them. First time is a learning experience, you'll probably say fawk this and try it from above, realize you need 3 more wrist joints between your elbow and hand, then crawl back underneath and git r dun.
 
Just found this too

------------
If it's a 1999-2004 4.0 it's EASY!!!
After cutting the crap out of my hands and inventing new curse words removing the old Crankshaft Position Sensor from my 2003 Grand Cherokee 4.0, I could not get the bolt back in with multiple extensions and swivels.
I figured there MUST be an easier way, something the stealership is not letting on about.
Fact is, if you go through the firewall under the dash it is EASY!!
Here's how to do it:
1) Remove the plastic bottom panel directly under the gauges. It simply snaps up and out.
2) Locate the 4 10mm bolts that hold the lower plastic panel under the steering column and remove them along with a few phillips head screws as well to free up the panel. Remove.
3) Look behind the console and you will see a small plastic "L" shaped duct that blows air to your feet. Snap it out of its position and remove the phillips screw holding it from under/behind (or cut the plastic flange with a razorknife halfway if the screw is hard to get at - takes a shorty phillips screwdriver. This way you can still snap it back on.)
4) Pull the carpet back and tuck it under the gas pedal.
5) You will see an oval metal plate that the shifter cable runs through as it passes through the firewall. Remove the 2 10mm nuts and pull the plate back.
6) VIOLA! There is the crankshaft position sensor staring you right in the face through the hole in the firewall you have exposed!
7) Insert 11mm socket with extension and remove/replace bolt with ease.

You guys are welcome to buy me a beer when we cross trails
 
with a small bent 11mm you can reach your hand back by the intake if you got small hands and get it too or remore front driveshaft and you can reach right up with your hand. done it for long time that way. good luck
 
RenegadeT said:
Best done with laying on the ground behind the drivers front tire, get lots of extensions (12", 6", 3") and the universal wobbler socket. Duct tape the wobbler socket so it flexes a little but doesn't totally flop around. I can't remember if I use the 1/4" drive or 3/8", its tight. There are different versions of the kickdown bracket on the side of the AW4, one of them gets in the way. You can "shoot the gap" with all the ratchet extensions right along the flywheel housing if the wrong AW4 bracket isn't in the way.
I think the 2 bolts are 12pt. Don't drop them in the bellhsg. They are special shoulder bolts so you don't want to lose them. First time is a learning experience, you'll probably say fawk this and try it from above, realize you need 3 more wrist joints between your elbow and hand, then crawl back underneath and git r dun.
Click to expand...

Follow this. First time is the worst.
 
RenegadeT said:
Best done with laying on the ground behind the drivers front tire, get lots of extensions (12", 6", 3") and the universal wobbler socket. Duct tape the wobbler socket so it flexes a little but doesn't totally flop around. I can't remember if I use the 1/4" drive or 3/8", its tight. There are different versions of the kickdown bracket on the side of the AW4, one of them gets in the way. You can "shoot the gap" with all the ratchet extensions right along the flywheel housing if the wrong AW4 bracket isn't in the way.
I think the 2 bolts are 12pt. Don't drop them in the bellhsg. They are special shoulder bolts so you don't want to lose them. First time is a learning experience, you'll probably say fawk this and try it from above, realize you need 3 more wrist joints between your elbow and hand, then crawl back underneath and git r dun.
Click to expand...
A rubber o ring on the swivel works better than tape. Holds the socket and keeps full movement...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Remove front driveshaft is my vote. I believe I just used a good length of extensions. You should be able to stick your arm up the side of the tranny/bellhousing and feel it. If my memory is right I believe you can also see if when the air box is out of the way. Not too bad.
 
mbalbritton said:
Damn it, those notes are for a ZJ. Anyone around Trinity have a long ass 3/8" drive extension I could borrow?
Click to expand...

I have several extensions if you need them. I'll be in and out of the house tomorrow. Give me a call or text if you want to use them. 336-215-7283
 
Guess I didn't struggle near as bad as others. Took me about an hour with a 3/8 drive and many-o-extensions along with a swivel. But loke the others said, lay under the truck and get after it!
 
Back
Top