Retubing a hp 44 (need info)

Bridgeman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2009
Location
Anson County
Should I try to remove the old tube from the housing and replace with new or should I cut the tube behind the cast pieces and weld other pieces from another axle assembly using a butt joint.:confused:
 
I think it would be VERY difficult to pull the tubes out of an axle housing, since they are pressed in with several hundred tons of pressure. Cutting them off inside the cast wedges and butt welding another tube on would also be a VERY BAD idea....you would literally be risking your life and well-being in doing so. It would be incredibly difficult to get the tubes perfectly aligned, even with a jig. Even if it all came out perfectly - perfect alignment, perfect weld penetration and everything, I still wouldn't trust it. The metal's strength is compromised oustside of the weld because of the heat. Ultimately, it's your call, but that's just my "buck-o'-five."
 
Well, both have been done literally thousands of times. Alignment isn't really nearly as critical on a front axle as it is on a rear. Once you get the plug welds out you can pretty easily press the tubes out on a large press. If you've got a large enough press, you don't even have to fawk with the welds. Nothing wrong with a properly done butt weld either...how do you think most bearing retainers/spindles are attached to rear axles? But it does make life easier and gives more moral comfort to sleeve the inside of the tube where the weld will be. Obviously you would cut the tubes before the C wedges and have to grind/cut the tubes out of the inner C's. I don't know what you mean by using pieces from another axle assembly?

:edit: Cutting the plug welds out, and grinding the welds out of the inner C's sucks though. This is why people with these axles usually run radius arms. :flipoff2:
 
...how do you think most bearing retainers/spindles are attached to rear axles?
Pressed and welded...just the same as the axle tubes. How do you think they're attached?
 
cutting the end off of another axle with the inner c's and welding them to the cut assembly behind the cast section because on the short side of the 44 the c is welded to the cast section.
I'm putting the axle on yj so I would also have to do some fab work to run the radius arms.
 
Pressed and welded...just the same as the axle tubes. How do you think they're attached?

It would be nice if that were the case, then I wouldn't need one of those expensive alignment bars when shortening a housing.

And why not use the other axle rather than cutting off the tubes/c's?
 
The other axle is from a chevy. The inner c's and tubing are the same but I need the driver side drop for my t-case
 
have you given any thought to running a dana 300, making it pass. drop, and eliminating the 231? (assuming the rest is stock as far as tranny and trasfer case). that would eliminate all your front end problems, and give you a better gear driven transfer case.
 
I would have no problem running an axle that had been sleeved and properly welded.
 
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