REVERSE HI-STEER
- Thread starter strange1
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CTRaceWorx
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- Aug 23, 2007
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- Charlotte
I don't really know much about it. Every setup that I have done would have a lot of interference if it was behind the axle.
blasterr1
Well-Known Member
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- Sep 21, 2005
- Location
- kernersville
ive been running that set up on a 60. i know its a dana 44, but close i imagine. the axle is in a wrangler, sprung over.
the arms were from kc4x4, and bolted right up.....no problems at all. im not sure what he is up to now, but may be able to help steer you (no punn intended) in the right direction as far as vendors
hope this helps.......some
are you planning on running some type of hydro assist? ive been looking at doing it to mine.......but may have trouble mounting the cyl.......then again, i know nothing about hydro assist and what will/wont work
the arms were from kc4x4, and bolted right up.....no problems at all. im not sure what he is up to now, but may be able to help steer you (no punn intended) in the right direction as far as vendors
hope this helps.......some
are you planning on running some type of hydro assist? ive been looking at doing it to mine.......but may have trouble mounting the cyl.......then again, i know nothing about hydro assist and what will/wont work
csudman
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- Mar 21, 2005
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- Statesville
I was just looking for the same thing for my yj w/ a waggy front. The only person that I think builds them is rockstomper.com
Mac5005
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- Oct 19, 2005
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- Rocky Mount
What about running steering on the front of the axle, and switching to an astro van box?
What is different about an astro box?
paradisePWoffrd
Recovering Project Junkie
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2005
- Location
- Newton, NC
It is forward throw... So is a scout box....
Just remember, if you decide to run the draglink on the rear of the axle, you will need a steering box that rotates in the opposite direction like an astro or scout box...
Mac5005, I don't see how a forward throw steering box will keep my tie rod from hitting the pitman arm. If the drag link stays in front of the tierod (like it is supposed to be) the tie rod will still be under the pitman arm, right? am i just over thinking this?
Looks like the forward throw box will correct the drag link angle between the pitman arm and the steering knuckle, but it doesn't keep the tie rod out of the pitman arm. would be an excellent choice if i keep the tie rod below the springs.
Looks like the forward throw box will correct the drag link angle between the pitman arm and the steering knuckle, but it doesn't keep the tie rod out of the pitman arm. would be an excellent choice if i keep the tie rod below the springs.
spraypaintman
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- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Greensboro
Did you stretch out the front axle about 10"? What's your problem exactly?
It is stretched about 4" in the front. if i put the tie rod above the springs, it hits the pitman arm when the drivers side compresses. if i put it below the springs, it rubs the springs when either side compresses. The axle i have originally had the tie rod going into the knuckle from the bottom side (well below the springs), the flat-top knuckles i got have it dropping in from the top. that is why there is a clearance issue when keeping the tie rod down low.
csudman
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- Mar 21, 2005
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- Statesville
You are correct in your assumtion. You and I have 2 choices. Buy behind the axle steering arms. Or, clearance the frame and mount the box as high as possible and install good bump stops.
thinking i like the idea of a forward throw box mounted high.
Franklin
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- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Hickory NC
I got my D60 behind the axle arms from WFO Concepts. Trevor may have them for D44
jeepn-jason
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- Mar 20, 2005
- Location
- Greensboro
At what part does the draglink hit the tierod? Is it at the pitman arm?
paradisePWoffrd
Recovering Project Junkie
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2005
- Location
- Newton, NC
could you mount the tierod on the bottom of the high steer arm?
Mac5005
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- Oct 19, 2005
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- Rocky Mount
just as csudman said, it would move the pittman arm end of the drag link forward. This Is what I did on my YJ in the front to get the steering geometry correct. However i'm running a 60 front SOA with XJ springs that pushed the front out about 7 inches. I'm running an astro van box, with factory astro van pittman arm, with hi-steer. The only down fall with the astro box, is that is a tad slower than the stock box. The astro van box is a bolt in swap for a yj. I can get pictures of my steering if needed.
spraypaintman
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- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Greensboro
The cheapest way to fix your problem would be to move the steering box forward a few inches and use an astro pitman arm. They are a little shorter but are a lot beefier than a stock cj pitman arm. Also the astro pitman arms are completely flat wich would also help your situation. Sounds like you need a flat pitman arm. Then you could use regular high steer arms.
my old setup with a stock cj arm reamed out, soon after I installed an astro arm to bring the beef. My front was stretched about 2" or so.
my old setup with a stock cj arm reamed out, soon after I installed an astro arm to bring the beef. My front was stretched about 2" or so.
I'm running a Waggy 44 front in a YJ with rear mounted tie rod. Stock YJ box in the stock location. I run 2" lift springs, a shackle reversal, and my perches have an offset hole. This moved my front axle about 2" forward of stock. The arms are from Harsh Terrain. I'm happy with the set up so far. The holes are reamed a little on the deep side but so far I don't have any binding... Best pictures I have of the whole setup. Excuse the tiny tires, they were for mock up...
I have actually been looking at the Harsh Terrain arms. They are definitely the lowest priced arms i can find. How well do they fit? are there clearance issues with the brake calipers? How about with the frame and oil pan during compression?
Mac5005
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- Oct 19, 2005
- Location
- Rocky Mount
MtnYJ - Have you driven with this setup yet? It looks like from the pics that you have/going to have some noticeable bump steer. ???
Other than that, your setup looks good.
Strange1- Using a different box/moving it forward looks like you could keep the tierod on the front of the axle. And judging by MtnYJ's pictures, if you don't have much lift, could keep the tierod farther away from the oil pan at full bump.
Other than that, your setup looks good.
Strange1- Using a different box/moving it forward looks like you could keep the tierod on the front of the axle. And judging by MtnYJ's pictures, if you don't have much lift, could keep the tierod farther away from the oil pan at full bump.
csudman
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- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Statesville
I don't see why he would have bump steer? But that setup looks pretty good. MTNYJ, if you were running an astro box w/ the forward swing, do you think the box would get in the way on full compression?
strange1:
The Harsh Terrain arms fit just fine. The calipers have to be mounted upside down due to interference. With them upside down there was just a little interference which was easily solved with a little caliper grinding. There seem to be two drawbacks so far; the calipers have to be removed to be bled so you can make the bleeder screws be at the top, and the brake line contacts the steering arm lightly - I put a short piece of rubber hose around the brake line to protect it which seems to be working fine.
I should also mention that I was very pleased with the customer service at Harsh Terrain. This is my second set of arms from them. The first set was reamed for a pitman arm end instead of a draglink end. Aaron got me the new set of arms VERY quickly, and was super nice about it. It was just a simple mix up at his machinist's place.
If I had it to over again, I would have had them shipped with a straight hole, and had them reamed locally. Jon at ECGS reamed my pitman arm, and it was perfect. I would rather have had him do the arms as well because he was quite methodical about it. Having it done locally affords you the chance to say how deep you want the taper vs just getting a "1-ton Chevy taper" hole reamed.
I have tons of clearance between the oil pan and tie rod, no worries there.
Mac5005:
I've gone wheeling with it a few times, and a very small bit of road/gravel road driving. I have zero bumpsteer. My draglink is at a really good angle, and I don't run a trackbar so there's no alignment issues there. I am fighting a pretty good case of death wobble, but I attribute that to my 8* of caster. I got a little caster happy! lol I'm going to try some 4* steel caster shims and see if that helps...
csudman:
Can't speak for the Astro box, I've never looked into them...
The Harsh Terrain arms fit just fine. The calipers have to be mounted upside down due to interference. With them upside down there was just a little interference which was easily solved with a little caliper grinding. There seem to be two drawbacks so far; the calipers have to be removed to be bled so you can make the bleeder screws be at the top, and the brake line contacts the steering arm lightly - I put a short piece of rubber hose around the brake line to protect it which seems to be working fine.
I should also mention that I was very pleased with the customer service at Harsh Terrain. This is my second set of arms from them. The first set was reamed for a pitman arm end instead of a draglink end. Aaron got me the new set of arms VERY quickly, and was super nice about it. It was just a simple mix up at his machinist's place.
If I had it to over again, I would have had them shipped with a straight hole, and had them reamed locally. Jon at ECGS reamed my pitman arm, and it was perfect. I would rather have had him do the arms as well because he was quite methodical about it. Having it done locally affords you the chance to say how deep you want the taper vs just getting a "1-ton Chevy taper" hole reamed.
I have tons of clearance between the oil pan and tie rod, no worries there.
Mac5005:
I've gone wheeling with it a few times, and a very small bit of road/gravel road driving. I have zero bumpsteer. My draglink is at a really good angle, and I don't run a trackbar so there's no alignment issues there. I am fighting a pretty good case of death wobble, but I attribute that to my 8* of caster. I got a little caster happy! lol I'm going to try some 4* steel caster shims and see if that helps...
csudman:
Can't speak for the Astro box, I've never looked into them...
Mac5005
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- Oct 19, 2005
- Location
- Rocky Mount
MtnYJ - I was only asking b/c the angle that you have the drag link, and b/c you don't have a trac bar, It looks in the pictures like when your axle comes up, your wheels would turn right, and when your axle droops, you wheels would turn left. I was just curious.
As far as your caster, i doubt that 8* is causing your death wobble. When I still had my 30 in the front of my YJ, it had 12*, and now I have my 60 setup with 9* and have zero death wobble. However I also have hydro assist, and have serious tire shake, but thats got nothing to do with the steering. Ha.
[Hijack off/]
As far as your caster, i doubt that 8* is causing your death wobble. When I still had my 30 in the front of my YJ, it had 12*, and now I have my 60 setup with 9* and have zero death wobble. However I also have hydro assist, and have serious tire shake, but thats got nothing to do with the steering. Ha.
[Hijack off/]