Rock buggy build help...

Damage

Damage

New Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2011
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Hi from Down Under,
I've purchaced an F350 to start a buggy build and want to end up with something like the Atena style buggys. Just a simple cage buggy with hydro steer and coilovers, 4 link front and rear. The donor F350 is a '94 single rear with HP D60 front, Sterling 10.25 rear,(4.1's I think) Auto E4OD, BW T/C, 460 Gas. I will probably manualize the trans. Terrain is similar to what I see at Morris Mountain, long steep hils with rocks and clay.
My questions are:
*If I invest in some Chromo axles for the front and beef it up a bit, what size tyres can I get away with? I would like to run up to 44inch.
*Am I better off swaping out the T/C for an NP type or will the BW T/C do the job?
* Should I go for a T400 with NP straight up and get rid of the E4OD and BW?
*What size rodends will suit for the 4 link?
I want to try to avoid building the frame then modifing it later if it doesn't work.
Any help would be great. Build will start next year when I get all the bits together.
 
Glad you got on board. A lot of it depends on your driving style. Assuming you aren't really bad with the skinny pedal:

You should be ok with the 44's and chromo shafts.
If it were me, I'd run the NP205 T-case. Not sure of what a T-400 trans is. If you are thinking NP435 trans, that'd be a good way to go.

1-1/4" Heim ends would be the cheapest way to go vs. using a rebuildable style joint. I wouldn't go smaller than that. Sounds like it is going to be VERY heavy. Keep us posted.
 
The front axle is a great axle. The only thing I would do is upgrade to chromoly 35 spline stubs with drive flanges and new spicer joints. Also put 5.13 gears and a spool. For the rear axle you can build the sterling 10.25 but a chevy 14 bolt is much cheaper. For the motor I would reccomend a small block. You can get the same power and less weight. I prefer an auto trans. A steep hill climb can be difficult if you need to change gears half way. That transfer case is aluminum housing and might be ok, but a 205 or dana 300 would be better. I use 3/4 heims on all my stuff with no problems.
 
Thanks for the input. I may look at selling the 460 with the transmission and going for a lighter engine. We'll see how much I can get for it.
Anyone know where I can pick up an NP205 in SF Bay area?
I looked into 5.13 gears as this would be the best ratio. Will try out the 4.1's first.
 
Here is my 2 cents:

As has already been mentioned, I'd swap the rear axle for a GM14 bolt FF if you can find one cheap down there. I'd weld it or run a spool.

For the front axle, I'd run a 'good' set of chromo shafts and some upgraded u-joints like the Bobby Long 300m versions, some drive flanges, and a Lock Right locker. After having both a welded front and a Lock Right front, I much prefer the locker for steering ability. That combo should hold up to 42"-44" tires.

To save money, I'd run the motor, tranny and TC you have until they blow, then replace with whatever you desire. I'd replace the E4OD with a C6, and then replace the TC with an Atlas.

I'd run 1-1/4" joints on all suspension links with a big buggy like you are building.
 
I'd go just a little different.
For bomp proof, I'd go with the C-6, and the 203/205 combo. Or if you wanna go manual, and lower geared go with the T-18. You should be OK with this without having to re-gear.
As said, for reliability, go with the 14 bolt
 
Thanks for your comments. Here in Aus we have no access to all the basic stuff you guys find at the local wreckers. I'd love to have a 14 bolt rear and an NP205 but I'd have to get them shipped from the US. Maybe I will when the Sterling gives up. Might look at reducing the tyre size to 40 to help the drivetrain live. So many different ways to go. Merry Xmas one and all :usa:
 
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