Roofing advice

mommucked

mommucked

Endeavoring to persevere
Joined
Sep 26, 2011
Location
Rural Apex n.c.
My mid 80s shingle roof is shot. Trying to do it myself, one side/exposure at a time w help form my brother who is a shingle laying fool. I know some plywood and soffit must be replaced, the vents re-done and probably most of the fascia. Should I try to rip and repair/replace the soffit/fascia before the roof or do the roof first and then the stuff below?
 
How long are you planning for the project to take? If you do soffit and fascia first and let the leaking roof be for any period of time you may end up with water damage to the new fascia and soffit.

I see no advantage to repairing fascia and soffit first unless you are going to use a drip edge in that case you would want to have the new fascia up.
 
It's not leaking now but was before we bought it and there is some rot here and there. I'm sure their will be plenty of plywood , rafter/fly scabbing and boxing to make it right. I would like to take my time repairing the boxing/deck while using tarps to keep the un shingled part of the roof dry until we can shingle it and then move on to the next area.
 
Tar paper instead of tarps.. skip the extra expense of tarps. Tarps aren't necessarily water proof. Of course, don't think tar paper is 100% either but I think it's pretty close to it.
 
And I would consider synthetic underlayment over tar paper. Such a better product. Tar paper is century old technology. We use repel but they are all pretty much the same.
 
Interesting material tar paper. It will shed water but will allow moisture to pass thru. Ran into a retired engineer from DuPont. Tyvek was designed to replace tar paper. Stop air flow and water but let moisture thru. I was at a building conference years ago with a very distinguished moderator that presented a sidewall water intrusion problem that caused the window and wall to rot. It was presented as improper installation of house wrap. I thought the siding protected the wall from water. My question was not answered when I asked is the siding protecting the house wrap which is expected to keep out the water?
 
moldman05 said:
Interesting material tar paper. It will shed water but will allow moisture to pass thru. Ran into a retired engineer from DuPont. Tyvek was designed to replace tar paper. Stop air flow and water but let moisture thru. I was at a building conference years ago with a very distinguished moderator that presented a sidewall water intrusion problem that caused the window and wall to rot. It was presented as improper installation of house wrap. I thought the siding protected the wall from water. My question was not answered when I asked is the siding protecting the house wrap which is expected to keep out the water?
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This may not answer your question, but siding and vapor barrier aren't suppose to get alot of direct contact with weather/water. Houses have overhangs for a reason to direct direct water flow from the roof away from the house. If the wall doesn't have any penetrations (windows, doors, light fixtures) in there isn't any reason it should hold water. Windows that are installed wrong give a place for water to sit and over time that's what causes the rot. I'd say siding is designed to repeal 98% of indirect water flow and vapor barrier is for the 2%.

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X2 for any of the synthetic underlayments, a lot easier to work with.

Just guessing you have some type of plywood soffits and 1x material for facia boards, is that's what you are going back with?

If I were replacing all facia with 1x material or similar, and planned on using drip edge you could change all fascia first assuming you didn't need any repair to rafters tails,overhangs and plywood.

I wouldn't be scared to do a tear off and repair including soffits and facia, and leave it with synthetic underlayment till you get that done, then roof :cool:. I guess a lot depends on where exactly your damage is, how bad it is , and if you are like me how slow you work...
 
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