Rough Country 2-3" kit

992door

Active Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2009
Location
Winterville, NC
I have a 99 2 door tahoe and i was thinking about getting this kit. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with it? How difficult is it to put on i would not think very hard.

this is what i was talking about
http://www.roughcountry.com/chevy_4wd_88-98_2-3.html

and this is what it would be going on
ai344.photobucket.com_albums_p321_992drtahoe_pictures_IMG_1322_edited_1.jpg
 
1st...nice looking tahoe
2nd... i wouldn't spend the money on it. you can crank the torsion bars for 2" and get some add a leafs for the rear, $100 tops.

what size tires you running in the pic?
 
They are 285/70/17 and i would not be paying 519 for it i can get it for $300 the reason that i want to get it is because my upper ball joint angle is bad. thanks
 
It looks like a good kit for the price, the only thing that I would do different is instead of add a leafs get blocks or springs because it will sag after a little while. That lift with a body lift should give you enough room for 35s also.
 
if the truck has auto 4WD i would make sure that kit fits with no problems, like driveshaft vibrations because even in 2wd the front shaft turns all the time. i got a 4 inch Pro Comp here at the shop for the gf's 2door tahoe, but i cant use it because hers has auto 4WD. thought about cutting hole in floor for manual case but its too nice to chop up.
 
we did one on a 4 door tahoe at the shop and he we ended up with about 4 to 5 inches in the front so the rear lift wasnt enough so we did 2 " blocks on top of the add a leaf. tahoe turned out nice and fit 35's with some trimming. since then the customer did a 3" body lift and now is looking for some 37's
 
he likes it alot and as far as i know it rides very good .. tire choice is gonna make the biggest difference in the ride.
 
I like the way that it looks now to but it is cranked right much and the ball joint angles and cv angles are not that good. that is why i was considering getting it to help get the angles back to a decent point.
 
1st...nice looking tahoe
2nd... i wouldn't spend the money on it. you can crank the torsion bars for 2" and get some add a leafs for the rear, $100 tops.
what size tires you running in the pic?
Actually that kit is very good, and does alot more than that. It drops the differential a couple inches which makes the CV shaft angles much flatter, therefore they won't break as easily. The upper control arms also reduce the ball joint angles which usually lead to faster ball joint wear on those model trucks.

If your main concern is the BJ's right now, wait until you are ready to replace the upper BJ's and when you put new ones in, bolt them in under the control arm, rather than on top of it, many 88-98 Chevy guys have done this to combat their upper ball joint angles, and just make sure you get it realigned after doing so.

If you need any help with the kit let me know, I have the proper tool for unloading the torsion bars also, finally broke down and bought one after the trusty 2 jaw puller method left a 1" hole in the concrete floor that could have been my head, I don't mess around with that any more.
 
I like the way that it looks now to but it is cranked right much and the ball joint angles and cv angles are not that good. that is why i was considering getting it to help get the angles back to a decent point.


I used the RC 2-3" kit (upper Control Arms, drop brackets, RC torsion bars) on my '92 Suburban. I won't say the kit was a POS or that it rode terrible, but my CV angles weren't great and it was very hard on ball joints from then on out.
 
I used the RC 2-3" kit (lower Control Arms, drop brackets, RC torsion bars) on my '92 Suburban. I won't say the kit was a POS or that it rode terrible, but my CV angles weren't great and it was very hard on ball joints from then on out.
Hmm must be a different kit...That comes with upper control arms, lower control arms do not really have an issue with BJ angles when cranking those model trucks.

They used to sell a kit that was just bars and blocks, nothing to help drop the diff or BJ angles.
Also due to the design of the kit, ride is always going to be as stiff as just cranking the keys, its still a cranked torsion bar suspension, just with better CV and BJ angles. The lower control arms are still at a steep angle, providing less of a moment arm on the torsion bar, therefore the suspension has more preload and will take more force to compress, therefore riding rougher.
 
If you need any help with the kit let me know, I have the proper tool for unloading the torsion bars also, finally broke down and bought one after the trusty 2 jaw puller method left a 1" hole in the concrete floor that could have been my head, I don't mess around with that any more.

Thanks man i will let you know where are you at now? Raleigh or in Statesvills?
 
Thanks man i will let you know where are you at now? Raleigh or in Statesvills?
Back and forth every couple weeks. I live in the Statesville area, but go to State.
 
I meant mine had RC tubular UPPER control arms. The lowers were the factory parts. Sorry for the confusion. my bad
 
how do you like it out there at State?
I like it, but I am ready to graduate. Too many things I'd rather be out doing than stuck here in Raleigh.
 
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