Rough country long arm questions

Brenden

Active Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2012
probably gonna sound stupid but here we go. I installed a 6.5 rc long arm kit about 3 months back. It actually rides really good but the problem is I don't feel like it flex enough. I was thinking it was Bc my springs might need some brake in time but after 1300 miles and 5+ trail rides I believe they've broke in. Any tips or suggestions on how to make it flex better. Or maybe something I did wrong thanks
 
Did you install new shocks as well? You could have something binding during suspension travel. More information on your rig/pictures of suspension setup would help.
 
91 xj
IMG_1726.jpg
 
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but that looks like a radius arm setup, which will inherently limit flex because it's trying to twist the axle in flexing. Do you have a way to measure the flex you have? (Engine hoist to lift a wheel, ramp, forklift, etc) for off-road you could possibly remove one of the upper links that connect the axle to the lower link on the pass side only and test it again, however I do not know whether or not the links are sized large enough to take the stress added on the one side by doing this. (To my understanding, that setup basically uses the links and axle like a huge sway bar in it's present setup)
 
Stock steering can limit flex for sure. Is the rear flexing well?


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a_kelley said:
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but that looks like a radius arm setup, which will inherently limit flex because it's trying to twist the axle in flexing.
Click to expand...

That only holds true if there isn't a joint with rotational compliance between the links and the axle housing. If there isn't a rotational degree of freedom there, then it turns the links and axle housing into torsion bars.

In this case, there are bushings at the housing, which is fine because the angle change isn't as great as where the link meets the chassis.

jeep-lift-kit_perf672-base-v3.jpg
 
BTW, I just wanted to point out the decent bushing design on the axle side of the Rough Country lift. After poking around and looking at some pictures, I realized how bad a lot of the kits on the market are. There's a lot of stuff with some or all of these bushing flaws: small bushing diameter, long bushing length, and poly bushing material (high durometer). No wonder the radius arm kits have a bad reputation for binding. You can't make a bushing with enough angular compliance if it's small, long, and stiff (insert jokes here).

The Rough Country bushing is large diameter, short, and looks to be rubber instead of poly. That should work just fine.
 
a_kelley said:
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but that looks like a radius arm setup, which will inherently limit flex because it's trying to twist the axle in flexing. Do you have a way to measure the flex you have? (Engine hoist to lift a wheel, ramp, forklift, etc) for off-road you could possibly remove one of the upper links that connect the axle to the lower link on the pass side only and test it again, however I do not know whether or not the links are sized large enough to take the stress added on the one side by doing this. (To my understanding, that setup basically uses the links and axle like a huge sway bar in it's present setup)
Click to expand...


I can't even pull up on a 35" tire without carrying my rear. The rear is about the same with flex. Yes it is factory steering but gonna order new here soon.


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IMG_0590.JPG
This was mine with the RC long arm the same as yours except I was running a waggy 44 in the front but the same concept. It didn't flex near as good as my new 3 link does. Question: do you have sway bar disconnects ?
 
Buy a three link now or regret it and buy one later. I had to put limit straps on mine or I would bottom out the shocks, driveshaft and the springs would fall out

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