Rust Froze Bolt

rodney eppes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2010
Location
Mt.Holly NC 28120
I have a 3/4" bolt, stuck with rust, that I need to break loose & remove. It's up inside a mount on a push blade. So far my 1/2 impact, hasn't budged it. Been soaking for 2-3 days with WD40. I know the general tips like More power, & Heat. Just wondering what you Metallurgist, have done? Anyone tried the WD Rust spray? I'd like to reuse this bolt, just need it out for now. I spent an hour today, drilling out a rust welded cotter pin! I can get Heat to the bolt, but not so much the metal it's froze in. In the pictures, it will be the Wet looking bolt.
 

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I'v become a huge fan of mixing ATF and acetone.
50/50. Buy acetone by the gallon for cheap.
Mix it up in a spray bottle, shake it up. Coat it and let it sit. Couple treatments and an overnight soak and Ive had some incredible luck. Like anything I suppose YMMV but its cheaper than any aerosol solution Ive found and way more effective.
 
WD40 only stays on the surface. You need a good penetrating oil like PB blaster that will actually travel and seep into the bolt.

Get it good and lubed up, and penetrated.
 
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Is your impact weak? Might try a bigger impact to knock it loose if penetrating oil doesn't work.
 
Junkyard Dog said:
KROIL!!!! all the way. About the most expensive and the best. Kano labs have some other great products also.
Click to expand...

This!!!

My brothers uncle gave me a can of this a while back, and no questions asked is better than pb blaster, wd40, and all the other stuff.
 
Acetone and ATF or WD-40.

PB Blaster is worthless. Science says so, and you don't want to be a science-denier, do you?
 
@rodney eppes I can bring my big Milwaukee impact by one afternoon this week if you think it's a torque issue.
 
Wow, Thanks guys! That Kroil is Expensive! ATF/Acetone, sounds interesting. I'm out of PB, but now we have 2 opposite opinions here. Right, WD 40 is not a good perpetrator. I Know my impact is Not what the rating stats. It's probably 150# max, & reverse may be less. Blue wrench & cut off; I trying to Save it. Heat, yea, that may be the next option. If I can get it to wiggle, I could get that WD in it! Matt, bring that Old Milwaukee over! The impact, not the :beer:.
 
Kroil is mostly remarkable for it's high cost. It was outperformed by regular old liquid wrench.
 
Oil of Wintergreen. Navy repair shop I worked in was all we ever used. Got it in a pint bottle from the medical people. Works especially well for things correded in salt water. Made everything smell like a sprained ankle.
 
I've also had success with candle wax, heat the offending item up with a torch and then touch the wax to it and it sucks it right in. Don't use the good candles off the dining room table, there's probably some old ones in a drawer somewhere.
 
I get trying to save it....but it's a dollar part. You got a breaker bar if the impact is weak?

For stuborn rusty stuff.
I like castle products, my Ingersoll titanium impact, breaker bar and pipe, or the blue wrench in that order......unless I'm making money and nothing would be damaged by reversing the list.

Edit....it appears to be a through hole with the nut already removed. Put the nut back on to cover the thread and grab a 5 lb. Negotiator.
Smack that hussy. If it's rusted so bad in a through hole my take is it's compromised enough to warrant replacement any way!
 
rodney eppes said:
I got the bolt to break loose tonight, & got it out!
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Good to hear. I've had the impact in the back of the car since Thursday and have forgotten to swing by every time.
 
:p I Had, a long version typed out on here, but paused, searching for a funny quote/video, that I couldn't find. When I came back to post, my write up was gone! Damn it!
It Did soak in ATF & Acetone, for 2--3 days. And probably a little Wintergreen too. I Finally got back to it. First tried my impact in reverse, no luck. Added more lube, & hit Forward. It barely started moving! Couple more switches & oiling the spaces, & it was spinning wide open. Knocked it as far as i could with the nut & hammer, then used a punch. Once out & separated, I found the bolt is in a sleeve. That & 4 sections of 1/16 steel, with rust! No grease fitting. Now i can tell, I'll need to either build a mount section to the tractor, or maybe highly modify what I have. Just something Else to do! Btw, Kriol probably would have done the same, at the same cost, or less. Or Matt's Milwaukee! I got another cotter pin to get out, which has Not loosened. That bitch is going to get a Torch!:kaioken:
 
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