Rustoleum Hammered - getting it even

RatLabGuy

RatLabGuy

You look like a monkey and smell like one too
Joined
May 18, 2005
Location
Churchville, MD
The "hammered" stuff from Rustoleum is great - looks awsome, hides imperfectiosn really well, and pretty durable.
But getting it on nice and evenly seems to require a magic touch that I'm missing.
Is there a trick to doing it w/ the rattle cans? I got one of those cool clamp-on handles to make it easier to hold and get a nice even spray (boy, I'm never just using my finger again!).
It seems that in swaying back and forth, if you overlap too much, the texture gets funky fast.

I know uusing the real paint version w/ a roller works better, i've done that in the past, just curious about this method.
 
Bunch of light coats from far away works well. Don't get it on too thick or the glass will start to bead up and fisheye. Spread out evenly over the area your painting and just take it slow. Numerous light coats>minimal thick coats. Hope that helps??
 
I used the roll on for my Jeep. Still kinda hard to get it even without lines. Took a while to figure out how to keep from leaving the lines.
 
SPOA87YJ said:
Bunch of light coats from far away works well. Don't get it on too thick or the glass will start to bead up and fisheye. Spread out evenly over the area your painting and just take it slow. Numerous light coats>minimal thick coats. Hope that helps??
Click to expand...

If you do it this way (several light coats), how long do you have to wait between coats?
On the can it says w/in 1 hour or after 48 hr.
I'm sure part of my problem is that I'm wantin gto put it on too thick... I'm always wanting to try and get 100% coverage on the first pass...

Oh and Ricky, that philosophy isn't gonna work when you're painting fiverglass that's been sanded and patched.
 
If you're trying to paint it now, then it's probably the cold weather making it mess up. I've painted both of my axles with that paint and it came out looking very good, even when I did it with the same method you did of just getting it all covered in one pass.
 
Try getting it(the top) warm to the touch with a heat gun before you spray the top. This works really got on metal
 
jrraw23 said:
or you can just be the man like me
Click to expand...

I think most of us were with you up to this point...:flipoff2:

Let the parts warm up. If you try to spray the hammered paint under about 60*, its tough to get it right.
If its 90* out, it is pretty much point and shoot.
 
snappy said:
Try getting it(the top) warm to the touch with a heat gun before you spray the top. This works really got on metal
Click to expand...

Well, this was in my garage... undert he house... not warm by any means, but def over 60 deg...
Hm, what happens if you torch fiberglass to warm it up?

I'ev actually had this problem w/ a few things I've painted, bumpers etc. Really just noticible on thinsg that have lareg flat areas.
I'm sure it's just me and my impatience.
 
With light coats, you should be able to spray over pretty quickly, depending on the warmth of the top. I'd use a space heater or something to warm the top and keep it warm. Don't go for 100% on every pass. Shoot for more like 25%-50% to start. You'll be amazed at how well it fills in. the paint should be dry to the touch or just slightly tacky before laying down the next coat. If it's warm enough, then by the time your done with two sections, the first should be ready for coat two. Keep it warm! Also, think about curing time. If you cut off the heat when you're "done", it'll get cold and damp again, and the paint will take a month or so to cure completely. During that time, it can be easily damaged. I'd leave the heater(s) on overnight.
 
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