safely extending jackstand heght

RatLabGuy

RatLabGuy

You look like a monkey and smell like one too
Joined
May 18, 2005
Location
Churchville, MD
I know this has been discussed before, I was just thinking about it as I was prepping to re-shim my rear axle perches.

We've all heard the DON'T of using cynderblocks etc for jackstands.
But sometimes you need pretty high stands - like at the moment I have to support it by the frame so the leaf spring can have full droop. I have the 6-ton stands that are like 28" tall but even that isn't enough.
Given that even taller stands aren't easy to find (even 12 tons are only a few inches taller), What's the best way to safely add height?
I'd thought about maybe stacking scrap peices of 2" sq tubing between the top of the stand and frame (sideways parallel to frame) but that seems like it could slide off.
I've used wood blocks before (against grain), but not happy w/ that either.
 
6x6 posts cut up into blocks then bolted together, make a nice sturdy stable jack stand platform.
 
Cinder blocks are safe if stacked correctly. Start on level ground, set two side by side with the webs vertical. Stack two more on top the opposite direction, webs vertical. Now cap with a solid piece of 2x12 running running perpendicular to the top two blocks. You effectively have a 16"x16"x16" pilaster.

I like the cribbing idea with the 6x6 as well. /\
 
Cinder blocks ARE NOT SAFE !!!

It doesn't take anything to make them crumble with out the proper structure behind them.
 
my personal opinion.. which is based on my own experience is that i would never use cinder blocks.. i have used them plenty without trouble but the last time i used one i had them stacked for "structural support" and while it worked to do the job just fine when i moved them when i was done the bottom blocks were split and crumbling.. another half hour or a couple more swings of a hammer and i would have not been here.. just my 2 copper coins...
 
Blocks, square edges criscrosed every other layer like this #. They've supported everything from building, to large semi trucks in garages with no lifts for yrs.. Just keep the base wider than the top, square and on a flat surface. Out side you can even level the ground out with a flat shovel it its not laying well, gravity pulls straight down when things are plumb. I usually finish off a stack with a 1/8 or thicker plate of alum or steel to prevent the block from some how rolling out if the load should somehow shift.
 
Jack up the vehicle as high as possible, and put jackstands under frame at 28" height. Lower jack. Then go around and jack up one wheel at a time until it just lifts off the ground, and remove the wheel. That should give you enough clearance.
 
jeepinmatt said:
Jack up the vehicle as high as possible, and put jackstands under frame at 28" height. Lower jack. Then go around and jack up one wheel at a time until it just lifts off the ground, and remove the wheel. That should give you enough clearance.
Click to expand...

That's actually what I did this evening to get by - I first lifted it by the rear axle, and took the tires off, then kept lifting enough to get the 28" stands under the frame rails at top height. Then let off the jack so the hubs are only like 10" off the ground.
That works for this chore but just annoying to have to remove the tires when I don't really need to for the job at hand, that's what got me thinking about it.
 
foreman1063 said:
Cinder blocks are safe if stacked correctly. Start on level ground, set two side by side with the webs vertical. Stack two more on top the opposite direction, webs vertical. Now cap with a solid piece of 2x12 running running perpendicular to the top two blocks. You effectively have a 16"x16"x16" pilaster.
Click to expand...

I feel this method is reasonably safe for two reasons. First, you are loading the block correctly. Second, the wood plank on the top helps to distribute the load from the sharp edges of the jack stands across the whole block itself. I only use 1 layer of cinder blocks though. My jack stands are tall enough to do the rest.
 
I personally like rail road ties (maybe because I have a supply of them) on the ground and the jack tand on top of the rr ties.
 
Get some old wheels and weld some jackstands to them. This gives you a very solid base, and increases your height whatever the width of the wheel is. Downside is that you loose those jackstands to anything shorter, but it gives you a reason to either (A) Buy some more tools, or (B) Not have anything that is not lifted in your fleet. :D :D
 
Just put the jackstands on top of a floor jack, that should give you some extra height :)

I made some risers out of some angle iron and 2x2 square tubing. Very sturdy, and there is no way the jackstand can slide off the top (captured by the angle iron). Makes my stands probably a foot taller. Would be hard for you to do if you don't have a welder though.

blocks of hardwood would be best, stacked like # as stated above.
 
A little advice from an old guy... DON'T USE CINDER BLOCKS! They're not safe.

Concrete masonry comprises two basic types - cinder block and concrete block. Concrete blocks are pure concrete, whereas cinder blocks are made from coal cinders and concrete - forming a lighter, cheaper, building material.

A long, long time ago all quality building blocks were made of concrete... thus concrete blocks. These blocks were extremely strong and you could safely support a considerable heavy vehicle on them while working under it. A good concrete block will not crumble, a cinder block will, thus resulting in you not living to enjoy your retirement! DON"T DO IT!
 
Good point. "Cinder block" has become synonymous with "concrete block", kind of like "Kleenex" is for tissue. If going the block route, I would definitely seek out some real concrete blocks vs light weight CMU. Sorry for using the wrong terminology.
 
Either extend it the right way by adding to the legs, or weld on an old steel wheel. It's been done that way for years and years and depending on wheel width and BS, can add 6-8". Don't use cinderblocks.
 
what about solid versus open blocks?
 
I've used 2"x8" wooden boxes topped with plywood for years. They are a couple inches larger than the base of the jackstands all the way around and have worked fine for me.
 
foreman1063 said:
Cinder blocks are safe if stacked correctly. Start on level ground, set two side by side with the webs vertical. Stack two more on top the opposite direction, webs vertical. Now cap with a solid piece of 2x12 running running perpendicular to the top two blocks. You effectively have a 16"x16"x16" pilaster.

I like the cribbing idea with the 6x6 as well. /\
Click to expand...


I would highly recommend not using Cinder Blocks for jack stands I tried it once when I was replacing the rear axle in my Ram. They held fine until I started using my Impact Wrench on the U-Bolts the high pitch vibration literally shattered the blocks causing the truck to fall on me. Lucky for me the truck was a 4x4 and sat pretty high other then having to change my pants there was no real harm done. I purchased a set of 6 ton stands the next day and have not been with out them since.

Do not use Cinder Blocks if you going to be working with impacts under the truck!!!!!!!!
 
Kinda like a truck, if you go taller, you need to go wider. Bigger foot with supports. A friend of mine made a set using some house jacks he took out of a basement. Were tall and adjustable so if on unleveled ground, you could still level the truck. worked awesome.
 
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