SB350 & 700R4 Help

YotaOFFroad27

YotaOFFroad27

Active Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2009
Location
Oxford
Ok, here's the deal. I have been working on my girlfriend's dad's 82 chevy k10 truck. It has a SB 350 and a 700R4. the engine has a Quadra jet carb on it. The engine it self runs like a big pile of DOG :poop:.... The transmission I got from a seller on here, and it seems to be ok. The only thing I cant figure out it is HOW to set the detent cable. I know it has a button at the end of the cable and one should push the "button" on the end and snap it to WOT, but when I go threw the prosses the large plastic part of the cable come out of the part with the clip in it almost like the bracket its in is not right. Now, I am a Toyota guy threw and threw. This chevy has gottin the best of me. I really need some help with this thing. I have 2 Toyotas I am trying to get working on and this thing is in the way. IS THERE ANYONE IN THE OXFORD AREA THAT KNOWS CHEVYS LIKE THE BACK OF THERE HANDS THAT WOULD BE WILLING TO HELP?????
Any thing you think would help feel free to leave in this thread. I'm not here to bash chevys, but this thing is kickin my butt!!!
 
central09er said:
are you talking about setting it so it downshifts?
or are you saying that the cable slips through the bracket?
Click to expand...

The cable fits the bracket ok. but its like the bracket is too far away from the carb and is pulling th cable to far out. (including the black par that slides w/ it)
 
Pics of how far cable comes out when pulled to WOT

ai869.photobucket.com_albums_ab257_yotaoffroad27_Mobile_20Uploads_080700_122800.jpg



Pics of bracket

ai869.photobucket.com_albums_ab257_yotaoffroad27_Mobile_20Uploads_080700_122900.jpg
 
not much of a chevy fella but.. is the bottom end of the TV in the tranny in properly? looks like that adjuster isn't locking down.. or its hung up and getting pulled out the bracket cause the wire cable won't pull
 
a_kelley said:
looks like that adjuster isn't locking down..
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I agree. The difference from the WOT position and the idle postition looks like something is broken on your adjuster. It looks like the plastic cylindrical part is pulling out of the clip that holds the whole works in the bracket. That part should not move freely in and out of the clip in part.
 
central09er said:
yep if you wanted to be sure you could go buy a new one and have it installed for maybe $60 all together? the sbc detent/tv cables are cheap.
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Where are you getting cars worked on? I'd say 60 plus the cost of the cable. TV cables arent that cheap or easy to find new (dealer? i dont think advance,autozone,etc carry them but I may be mistaken). Used, yeah.. At least you don't need to drop the pan to install it like on a AW4..
 
a_kelley said:
Where are you getting cars worked on? I'd say 60 plus the cost of the cable. TV cables arent that cheap or easy to find new (dealer? i dont think advance,autozone,etc carry them but I may be mistaken). Used, yeah.. At least you don't need to drop the pan to install it like on a AW4..
Click to expand...

for a sbc most autoparts stores have them (being that i went to all of them trying to find one for my 6.2) and it cost me $40 bucks to get mine installed i can't remember the price on the cable itself though.

willness33 said:
Hmmm. I was under the impression that you do have to. If not, that's good news to me since the adjuster on mine has a tendency to slide out occasionally.
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and i dont think you can just put it in without dropping the pan because we had to drop it both times i put mine in
 
central09er said:
and i dont think you can just put it in without dropping the pan because we had to drop it both times i put mine in
Click to expand...
I kinda figured. There's no way to release it from it's connection otherwise. I thought maybe a_kelley had a trick that I didn't know about.
 
willness33 said:
I kinda figured. There's no way to release it from it's connection otherwise. I thought maybe a_kelley had a trick that I didn't know about.
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well, from what i remember, its got a hook in the end of the cable, it goes through a eye in the hole where the cable goes into the tranny.. needlenose and patience. it maay be a th350 i'm thinking of.. i'll check with my buddy that did trans swaps for a living.. he's the one who did the cable swap w/o dropping the pan.. i did not have the patience to do it, but he did it a whole lot more than I..
 
no, the plastic peace does not move freely, you have to push to button to make it move. the cable can be pulled by hand (though tough), and you can feel like somehting is working?? i am not sure that i have the right bracket, but I have NO idea really...:confused:


It had a holly carb on it before but I put the Quadra jet (sp?) back on it. This truck has been "tinkerd" on in the past so that makes the job of figuring it out even harder... :/
 
The cable should be pretty easy to pull by hand. The bracket you have looks like it should work. All it has to do is keep the cable in place. The adjustment in it should take care of the rest. I'd check the routing of the cable to see if it's bound up somewhere.
 
There is a lot of info at bowtieoverdrives.com or try here. I do know you can kill a transmission if it isn't set correctly. It isn't just a kickdown cable like the TH350. It controls pressure throughout the entire gear range, and yes, you can hook it to the latch in the transmission without dropping the pan. If you pull on the end at the carb, you should feel spring tension, it should pull back on the cable when you let it go.

http://www.tvmadeez.com/
 
Also, the symmetry of how the carb pulls the cable is important. I switched from a TH350 to a 2004R, which is the same setup as far as the TV cable, in my car and went through all of this, and also a friend of mine did the same thing in his chevelle. At idle, you don't want any pull on the cable and at WOT, you want full pull on the cable, and then it is adjusted from there, The tighter the cable, the harder/higher the shifts.
 
drummertom said:
Also, the symmetry of how the carb pulls the cable is important. I switched from a TH350 to a 2004R, which is the same setup as far as the TV cable, in my car and went through all of this, and also a friend of mine did the same thing in his chevelle. At idle, you don't want any pull on the cable and at WOT, you want full pull on the cable, and then it is adjusted from there, The tighter the cable, the harder/higher the shifts.
Click to expand...
Exactly. Also, a cable that is set "too long" will cause very premature failure of the trans. Very simply, it will constantly slip. A cable set too short will not cause damage, but you will have much higher rpm shifts, harder shifts, and you may not get into OD.
 
ok so i remebered the trans i have in it now came from an 88 truck. I assumed that 700r4s where the same... could the cable be different threw the years??:confused:

how easy should the cable pull? About how far should it come out. (not the adjustment)
Also i am correct in pushing the silver-ish button on the TV cable (2nd pic)




I should have never took this thing on:shaking:

thanks for all the help guys
 
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