SB350 & 700R4 Help

7004r's are all the same as far as the TV cable. The difference is in the carb. The cable should pull about 1 inch I think. Is the truck driveable?
 
well the carb is tuned like :poop: and the engine needs a few seals but the big hold up is the TV cable. But to your question yes it will drive.
 
I am trying to find a number of the guy that checked mine. He lives in Timberlake. Do you think you could drive it that far? If not, he may be able to come to you. It may be tomorrow before I can get his number, but I'll pass it along when I do.
 
I am trying to get the phone number for the guy in Timberlake and as soon as I get the number I will pass it along to you. He may be able to come to you.
 
OK thanks. Timberlake is about 40 mins from my house..


On another note.

I cant not keep the Alternator belt on this POS..... I went and found the upper factory bracket to replace the cheesy AutoMart one.... Still throws it off.. This time i was messing with the Alternator and noticed that the lower mount was a little loose... I tryed to tighten it but the bolt is bottomed out. What should the lower mount look like? should it have washer between everything??? also i noticed that the Pully itself wobbled just a bit. The alternator is yellow and the fan/pully is chrome... can you buy them all dressed up or is that custom. the reaon i ask is, the guy next door walked over and he said it looked like the alternator was too far back... but the bracket it un-moddedd and holding it where it should be...
 
PM Sent

I'm sending you a PM with the guys contact info. Lemme know if it works. He is a real nice guy and I highly recommend him.
 
if it'll help, i have a TV cable from a 700 i had..... you can have it for the price of shipping if you wanna give it a shot.....

or i can bring it to raleigh and i can meet you in/around raleigh..... i'm working in apex/new hill
 
hey man thanks for the offer, But i dont think my issue is with the cable its the bracket. I was pushing and holding the button to adjust it. Yesterday I pushed it let go and then went to WOT and it worked out ok.. it adjusted really far but didnt pull out, So i guess ill have to drive it around alittle to see if it really did work. Its not going anywhere throwing alternater belts though:rolleyes:
 
OK so i have been busy with My 4runner and doing final prep for it 1st real trip. However I was able to go see my old Auto Teacher (GM tech for 20yrs part of witch was in the 80s :D)

I drove it about a week ago.. maybe 1/8 mile (Far enough to run 1st gear out and it not shift.) I turned around and came back home. He seems to think that the valve body is stuck in 1st gear. In D (Drive) you can run it up to about 35 and it wont do anymore. you let off the gas and it like its in nuetral. you hit the gas again and it wont do anything till it reaches the RPM the tranny is spinning at, once there it begains to pull again. When in L (1st gear) you can run it Up to 35mph again but this time when you let off it engine breaks and slows down. He said the reason it did this was because of a one way clutch deal that the L gear uses, and when in Drive the one way is not used and this is called and "over running clutch". this is used in normal driving, like when you let off the gas to roll to a stop sign it doesnt engine brake. That is how it was explained to me. I can only take his word. He also said i could try and get the tranny warm and manualy shift it into 2nd (L to 2nd gear on the lever) and maybe the pressure would build up enough to un seat the Valve in the valve body. If that doesnt work ill need to either fix this one or find a working one.


Any thoughts from people who know??
 
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