Scan tool for air bag?

Blkvoodoo

Blkvoodoo

professionally useless
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Have a '97 Honda Accord Wagon EX, SRS light has come on and stayed on.

Anyone have a scan tool that will access the SRS system on this vehicle ?

I'm guessing it is probably the clock spring behind the steering wheel with an open, I remember hearing this may be an issue on these cars.

Air bags are not something I like to mess with, gets expensive real quick sould you happen to touch the wrong wires.

anyone ?
 
I have replaced many airbags and as you said it is most likely a bad connection. This is what I would do. first Disconnect the battery. Then unpluge and reconnect the Air bag(s),clock spring, the air bag computer and the sensors if they are separate. there is nothing you can do to hurt the system with the power disconected.

Then with everything reconnected reconect the battery.
 
Per a bud that was a Dodge Master Wrencher... disco the battery and WAIT about 10-15 minutes until the capacitors discharge. They are there to activate the system should the main power fail for whatever reason... He had done hundreds of DC clock springs when he did mine about 3-4 years ago...

Not sure if Hondas are the same, but the extra wait ain't gonna hurt!
 
Blkvoodoo said:
Have a '97 Honda Accord Wagon EX, SRS light has come on and stayed on.
Anyone have a scan tool that will access the SRS system on this vehicle ?
Click to expand...

9V battery seems to work well.. :flipoff2:

I'm with Dave.. WAIT after diconnecting the batteries.

Personally, I'd jumper the 2 terminals on the airbag after removing them, to eliminate any voltage difference. That's the procedure for other types of explosive squibs I've dealt with in the past...
 
I work on hondas and I suggest you check the code before you touch anything. Why mess with something that you are not sure is the problem.
 
You can check the code by finding the two pin connector under the glove box. The connector is blue and is not plugged into anything. When you find it make sure the ign. is off and jump the connector. Then turn the switch to the on position. The light will then start to flash long and short flashes. The long flashes will be first. When you are finished just remove the jumper.
 
check the seat belt connector under the seat to make sure it is plugged in. whatever it is, it may be an intermittent problem and SRS light stays on even if there is not a problem right now. after resetting the code shake individual wires to see if you can find the source of the short or problem.
 
pipeline said:
I work on hondas and I suggest you check the code before you touch anything. Why mess with something that you are not sure is the problem.
Click to expand...

You got the right idea Pipeline, using the diag codes will help eliminate the guess work, VS possibly creating another problem by randomly checking plug connections.

Hondas are built much better than the GM products I am used to working on, but even thier electrical connections can be screwed up with the wrong tug.

Thanks for the info on the code retreival.

Everyone else, thanks for the other info.

Airbags and auto trans, voodoo I don't do.
 
Rich said:
9V battery seems to work well.. :flipoff2:



Personally, I'd jumper the 2 terminals on the airbag after removing them, to eliminate any voltage difference. quote]

NOOO! don;t do that it might trip the air bag computer and some of those can not be reset.
Click to expand...
 
Rich said:
Personally, I'd jumper the 2 terminals on the airbag after removing them, to eliminate any voltage difference. That's the procedure for other types of explosive squibs I've dealt with in the past...
Click to expand...

There are actually "shorting bars" on all connections to do just what you are talking about. They do it automaticlly when the connectors are unplugged.
 
I second that motion the shorting bars are there to prevent accidentally probing with a test light or nekkid wire.
 
Air bag diagnostic procedure.


1) check codes
2) read up on source of codes and test procedures
3) follow test procedures
4) replace failed component
5) clear codes.



Now, that being said, clock spring is the most likely culprit, You can disconnect the clock spring and subtitute the volve test squib for the spring and bag and retest. Cruise and horn problems are also short cut tests for clock springs.

If you get squib codes, 90% of the time they are clock spring related for the l/h bag. Passenger bag is normally either a loose or bad connector at the bag itself or the bag as gone south.

Never, ever stick a DVOM or a test light into a live SRS harness, pin outs are done with the bags and ECU unplugged, period. Most folks are also kinda funny about SRS harness repairs but, done right they are fine.


I have a determinator that should read that thing is the 2pin jumpout doesn't apply to that car (96 is around the transfer year that that connector went away) If you need to borrow it, let me know.
 
Ratman said:
Air bag diagnostic procedure.


1) check codes
2) read up on source of codes and test procedures
3) follow test procedures
4) replace failed component
5) clear codes.



Now, that being said, clock spring is the most likely culprit, You can disconnect the clock spring and subtitute the volve test squib for the spring and bag and retest. Cruise and horn problems are also short cut tests for clock springs.
Click to expand...

Well, I finally found my FSM, and read it, this does use the 2pin jumper to read codes, (8-5, SRS module malfunction) which directs me to replace module with no further testing. Umm, No, that ain't gonna happen without a little diagnostication. ($650 for the module, pretty expensive what if)

So I read further on the code clearing proceedure, which is also a 2 pin jumper (different jumper, different location) performed that proceedure, so far, no issues, light is still out after 400 mile of driving and several starts and self diag. loops.

Thanks for the info, if I had found the manual sooner, I wouldn't have wasted yer time on this. Was in a hurry as I needed the car for a road trip that i am currently on (sitting in KY writing this)

I don't like warning lights popping on in my junk, will drive me nuts till I can repair or at least diag. (yes I carry an OBD2 scan tool with me on trips)

Makes the wife crazy, as I'll drive down the road with it hooked upwatching live data, especially if there does happen to be a fault.

Anal? probably.

Kevin
 
Cperry said:
whatever it is, it may be an intermittent problem and SRS light stays on even if there is not a problem right now.
Click to expand...
:D
 
Blkvoodoo said:
Well, I finally found my FSM, and read it, this does use the 2pin jumper to read codes, (8-5, SRS module malfunction) which directs me to replace module with no further testing. Umm, No, that ain't gonna happen without a little diagnostication. ($650 for the module, pretty expensive what if)
So I read further on the code clearing proceedure, which is also a 2 pin jumper (different jumper, different location) performed that proceedure, so far, no issues, light is still out after 400 mile of driving and several starts and self diag. loops.
Thanks for the info, if I had found the manual sooner, I wouldn't have wasted yer time on this. Was in a hurry as I needed the car for a road trip that i am currently on (sitting in KY writing this)
I don't like warning lights popping on in my junk, will drive me nuts till I can repair or at least diag. (yes I carry an OBD2 scan tool with me on trips)
Makes the wife crazy, as I'll drive down the road with it hooked upwatching live data, especially if there does happen to be a fault.
Anal? probably.
Kevin
Click to expand...


Well, providing its not a deployed unit I've never been above a used module in a pinch. The stuff I mess with has recodable units so its not a issue.


If you have access to alldata, check for SRS bulletins relating to your model and code. If there is one, there might be a shortcut. Also some manufactors have "lifetime" warrentys on SRS systems and hard parts. (modules, bags, sensors, seat belts)

I ignore the lights most of the time, just doesn't bother me unless its oil, temp or low fuel. LOL Is that bad for a profession Benz tech. :lol:

Also, some cars use module codes for low voltage codes. :shaking: Dumbasses, I've seen module defective codes pop up when the cranking voltage is under 9.5 in MBZ's and BMW's, however, you'll find low voltage codes in other modules that are smarter. Hondas have some history of ground problems under the hood, is that shit green? :flipoff2:
 
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