school me on brake pads

RenegadeT

RenegadeT

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I worked at a shop and got all of our parts from napa. the napa is Boone is better than any other napa I have ever seen. we took a class on the adaptive one pads and they are the shit. they are inner and outer pad specific. they pads are made of two different compounds which controls heat better to keep your rotors from warping. they are are backed by a great warranty and if installed correctly and grease put on the ends of the pad and the backs of the pads where the piston hits and the caliper on the outside one and they make any noise or wear down to quickly they will replace them. make sure you keep track of mileage when putting them one. just my opinion though. get the adaptives, if you dont want to spend that money get the SS's they are my next in line to be put on a customers vehicle at the shop.
 
I used to work at Napa....

Tru-stops are Pieces of crap, unless you just need something to throw in there to have it in there.

Safety stops are a mid grade, pretty good pad, the safety stop ceramics are still mid grade, just with a ceramix mix. Dont buy the Safety stop ceramics, lots of returns on these... ie cracking, glazing, worn out in a week, on regual cars.

AE pads, are Original equipment replacement pads, same compound are OEM, top of the line non-ceramic pad....good pad if you are not going ceramic.

The adaptive one, and ceramix, are both really good ceramic pads, but they are alot harder than normal organic pads. I Ran the Ceramix in my YJ, with slotted rotors in the front, and w/ 36's thing would stop better than stock, ran that setup for about 2 years as DD, and pads still have a TON of life left in them, as do the rotors.

Basically, this is my .02, If you want a Great pad, and have the money, go with Ceramix.

If you want a good pad, and money is an option....then I would definitely go with the Safety stop organics. I run the Safety stop organics in my 4runner and work great.

Hope this helps, if not, shoot me a PM.
 
thanks, $43.69 Organic Safety Stop was not in stock, so i left with the $49.99 AE Organic. Looking back, I didnt realize the next upgrade was only $3, I might have done that. I appreciate the choice, but c'mon, 6 options seems a little much.
 
1992xj said:
they pads are made of two different compounds which controls heat better to keep your rotors from warping.
Click to expand...

I don't buy a brake pad helping to control warping. Driver behavior has a far greater effect on how quickly a rotor will warp, like not keeping your foot planted on the brake after coming to a stop, etc.

When you stop an xxxx lb vehicle with a brake rotor of xx" diameter and a caliper/pad giving xx" of swept area, you will generate x amount of heat, total. The compound of the pad cannot change this, except in an extreme situation, in which it either is very high friction (lots of heat over a short time), or the pad is teflon coated which wouldn't be so good to actually stop the vehicle, but wouldn't put so much heat into the rotor.. :D

Maybe one of our resident physics PhD's can confirm or dispute this, but this is how I understand it...
 
The friction material could dissipate haet thought, couldn't it Rich?

Im a fan of the cheapest damn pad I can get.
 
SkyHiK5 said:
The friction material could dissipate haet thought, couldn't it Rich?
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Theoretically, sure.. but to where? Any pad only is about 3/8" thick, and has a metal backing plate. If the pad was specially designed to wick the heat from the rotor, then it would just transfer it into the caliper through the backing plate-to-piston contact and boil the fluid, wouldn't ya think?

I like thermodynamics for the same reason I like physics - energy has to go somewhere... no matter what the slick50 people tell ya.. :)
 
They don't stop as well, therefor lessening the chances of warping a rotor. :flipoff2: ( a joke)


Don't make me start the discussion over rotor warpage being a real thing or not....
 
Some brake pads offer a lifetime warranty, this usually means they are hard - they wear out your rotors/drums quicker.

Softer pads don't last as long, but won't wear out the usually more expensive rotors/drums.

For most passenger vehicles.. using softer pads means your rotors may last for the life of the vehicle.
 
hey renegadeT did you buy your brake pads already? post over rich go read up on the adaptive one pads.....I never said they would prevent all warping just help with not creating as much heat....
 
SkyHiK5 said:
Im a fan of the cheapest damn pad I can get.
Click to expand...
rbo1577186 said:
Some brake pads offer a lifetime warranty, this usually means they are hard - they wear out your rotors/drums quicker.
Softer pads don't last as long, but won't wear out the usually more expensive rotors/drums.
For most passenger vehicles.. using softer pads means your rotors may last for the life of the vehicle.
Click to expand...

There's an old codger on the ORC boards ("RRich") that brought me into that thinking years ago... softer pads lessen rotor wear.

While I've only put about 10K miles on the Moss since I converted to discs in the front (OEM rotors and softest organic pads I could find)... there is zero wear to either component despite the high use offroad.

I've used the OE replacements on everything else and it's hit/miss depending on whether the rotors are OE/cheapo's ("house brand")/quality (Raybestos, Wagner, etc.)... I can tell a HUGE difference in noise/squealing with store brand rotors, but stopping remains fairly consistent
 
1992xj said:
hey renegadeT did you buy your brake pads already? post over rich go read up on the adaptive one pads.....I never said they would prevent all warping just help with not creating as much heat....
Click to expand...

yep, check post #5

The cheapest pads were made in china, fawk that. The second cheapest wasnt in stock, so I settled with the OEM comprable replacements. They're made in Canada, close enough I guess.
 
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