School me on chainsaws

willness33

Here for the memes
Joined
May 3, 2005
Location
Alexis,NC
I have several smaller chainsaws, but due to the storm that basically destroyed my mom's house in Kings Mtn on tues night, I need something more substantial to cut up the aftermath. My budget is limited so I'll probably be looking at a used saw. I'll need one with with a big enough bar to handle a 24" trunk and an engine with enough ass to get through the wood. What's good and what's not? Pic of the biggest tree:

ai31.photobucket.com_albums_c391_willness33_moms_20house_20damage_momshouse100.jpg
 
Stihl MS290 or MS390. Good balance between weight and power, and a 20" bar won't even break a sweat on it. If you're looking for older, go with a Stihl 029 or 036.

X2. Go with a 20 inch bar and a saw in the 50 to 60 cc range and you won't spend a ton of money and still have a good all around saw. I have an 034 Super and 036 Pro. They are both the same cc and all the parts interchange. Only difference is the 036 has a compression release. The 029/290 Farm Boss is a very good all around saw. It is the most common Stihl model. There are probably more of them sold than all other Stihl's combined. Just be sure you get a compression check done on a used saw and cut with it until it's hot so you make sure the electronics are good. I've seen a lot of used saws that will run like a scalded dog for the first 10 or 15 minutes but when they get hot they start cutting out. Also be sure you don't buy something that is so old that parts are discontinued for it. Chain saw models become obsolete faster now than ever.
 
Stihl MS290 or MS390. Good balance between weight and power, and a 20" bar won't even break a sweat on it. If you're looking for older, go with a Stihl 029 or 036.

x2

Stihl or go home. No other saws compare.
 
Yep, what they said. I have four stihls and one husky, I can't stand the husky, I am a stihl man for a reason.
 
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You know I'm gon'na post this up when chainsaws come up, besides this, get a Sthil, last longer - built stronger.

The Farm Boss is the most common one I see people with, it's like 56cc I think.
 
My .02 Get a better chain. The "safety" chain is not worth a darn. Get a semi-chisel or chisel chain and the accompanying file for it. Keep it SHARP, IE every time you add fuel or anytime it starts to throw a half decent amount of dust.

Disclaimer: These are aggressive chains. Full chisel more-so than semi. If you have limited experience with chain saws use the utmost caution with them. If you do not use do caution you WILL lose a appendage or your life
 
Ive been cutting wood all my life, for heat and for several tree services. As a climber I recommend husqvarna. Sthils are not bad at all, But a husqvarna seems to turn more RPM,s and is easier to cold start. Buy one or the other. You get what you pay for.
 
Stihl

Nuff said
 
Thanks for all the info. I've been cutting wood for heat for years with my smaller saws so I'm not exactly a noob. I sharpen my own full chisel chains every other tank of fuel. The issue lies in my saws are just too small for what has happened at my mother's house. There are 4 trees like the one in the pic that need to be taken care of. Since I supplement with wood heat in the winter, it just makes sense for a bigger saw to make the job easier. I've always assumed stihl was the saw to use, I was looking to model numbers of the saws that get the job done. If anyone else has any more info or a personal opinion, hit me with it. I want to be as informed as possible before I spend any $. Thanks again.
 
I've got mostly Stihls, and have owned a few Husqvarna's. Both are great saws. I also prefer the Stihls, but wouldn't hesitate to own a Husky either. Dolmar is another brand to look into. The Husky dealer in Stanley sells em too.

I've got an MS361 and its my favorite saw right now, great balance of power and weight, and pulls a 20" bar like nothing. Also have an 046 Magnum that really rips that I might would sell for the right price.
 
Dolmar 5100 - three solid days of cutting after the tornado that came thru Sanford. And most of that cutting was on stuff way bigger than the saw was meant for. Starts every time without hassle. You can usually find them cheaper than stihls.

Dave
 
The issue lies in my saws are just too small for what has happened at my mother's house. There are 4 trees like the one in the pic that need to be taken care of. Since I supplement with wood heat in the winter, it just makes sense for a bigger saw to make the job easier. I've always assumed stihl was the saw to use, I was looking to model numbers of the saws that get the job done. If anyone else has any more info or a personal opinion, hit me with it. I want to be as informed as possible before I spend any $. Thanks again.

I've got a Farmboss (029) with 20" bar, and would probably like to have the next size up to clear four trees with a 24" diameter. Most of what I have cut up over the years around my house are pine trees with 20" or less dia at the base.
 
You can do 90% of all your cutting with an 18" bar. Like it was said earlier make sure its sharp. I've never been good at sharpening. So I always kept several sharp chains around. When one would get dull I'd swap it. SHARP SHARP SHARP That's the most important thing. As soon as you're not throwing big chunks and start throwing dust go sharp.

I used to own a landscape/tree company. I just lost a tree that's 4' at the base. I'll do it all with a 24" bar. I used to own 36" bar. You really need to be careful with a big powerful saw if you don't have much experience.

If you're talking great pro saws you can't go wrong with Stihl Pro series or Husky XP. My hands down favorite saw is a Jonsred.

I don't do it for a living anymore so I don't own a big saw anymore. I have 2 small ones. 14" - my climbing saw and a 18" bar. When I need a bigger saw I use my dad's 24".

After you cut up this tree how much more work will you do?
 
Thanks for all the info. I've been cutting wood for heat for years with my smaller saws so I'm not exactly a noob. I sharpen my own full chisel chains every other tank of fuel. The issue lies in my saws are just too small for what has happened at my mother's house. There are 4 trees like the one in the pic that need to be taken care of. Since I supplement with wood heat in the winter, it just makes sense for a bigger saw to make the job easier. I've always assumed stihl was the saw to use, I was looking to model numbers of the saws that get the job done. If anyone else has any more info or a personal opinion, hit me with it. I want to be as informed as possible before I spend any $. Thanks again.

No expert here but I have about six Stihl saws. Bought all of them used. Don't know what kind of price range your lookin at, but here's a few ideas.

I did some research when I was looking for saws. If it has an orange handle, it is a home owner model. If it has a white handle, it is a pro model saw and supposedly built better. The saws below are pro models.

An MS361 is a very good choice, got a bargain on mine at $235. I got a couple of old school 038 Mag II's that I really like and would do a very good job for you...looking at probably $325+ for a good used one. I don't have one but the 036 is also a good choice, I have seen a few used one's around for less than $300. You might be able to find an 044 or MS440 for around $300, which would be a good choice also.

You might find an 028 or MS280 for around $200 or less that would do the job but they don't quite have the power as any of those above.

Just my 2 cents.
 
Are you talking about the handle bar across the top of the saw? Mine are black, is that the old homeowner color?
 
No, all of the factory top handles are Black with a Rubber coating. There are aftermarket handles that are called Full Wrap Handles, typically found on a professional Logger saw.

The Orange or White colors are the handles where the triggers reside.
 
Stihl!

Use them for work. Have one saw that is 15 years old (026) and starts second pull EVERY time. thats after years of commercial use. Dad bought it used for 150. Probably one of the best investments we ever made. The farmboss is a great saw and not too expensive.

Like people have said before, get 2 or 3 good commercial chains, be careful, and always keep them sharp. So much easier to cut, less work on the saw, and safer too.
 
After you cut up this tree how much more work will you do?
There are 4 down just like the one pictured and I heat with wood. A good saw will see plenty of use. I've been working my 16", 25cc McCollough far too hard for far too long.


Thanks for all the info from everyone. It's been a big help.
 
Well my Stihl 051AV with the 36" rail was a mean saw. 89cc motor.

ditch the mcCollough unless it was made before about 1975.

My climbing saw is about a 40 year old McCullough power mac 6. Flat awesome saw. Tons of power but heavy. I've used a bunch of different tree saws (stihl, husky, sachs dolmar, echo) and always come back to this one. I very rarely climb anymore.

Like I said for 90% of what you're doing get a pro model stihl or husky 18" or go 20" bar. I wouldn't get something with a really big bar. My last one was in the $1000 range. That would cut into the savings of heating by wood. Grew up in the north we heated by wood. Just had a wood stove nothing special. Depending on the winter 5 - 8 cords per year. Dad never had a saw over 24".

If you had a bunch of really big stuff to cut up I'd consider having somebody cut it to length for you, instead of buying an expensive saw to sit most of the time. It'll be cheaper than buying a saw.

Also when you finally get a good saw, never loan it out. No matter who it is. My saws always come with an operator, me. Every time my dad loaned one out it always came back needing repairs. Don't do it.
 
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