School me on Deisel Automatics please?

72Rockcruiser

72Rockcruiser

LETS GO BRANDON!
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Location
Charlotte, NC
Buying a 94 Cummins 4x4 with a fresh auto. Like 500 miles fresh.

Would like a bit more power than stock, especially since you can do it almost free on the 12v.

Blew my load buying it, so no loot to buy a sweet torque converter/input shaft/valve body like I see for sale. Will def do as money allows, though.

So...for right now, if I turn this thing up a bit, what will be the biggest problem transmission wise?

I always heard heat was the biggest enemy of an auto, so can I put the most redicously big trans cooler I can find on it, drive it like a sane person, and be OK? Or...?

It will be used only to tow and/or run parts. Have the Honda for DD, so it wont be racking up too many miles.

I plan to get gages stat. Pyro/trans temp/boost.

Any advice?
 
The stock trans cooler is fine.. You really need a torque converter & VB before you crank it up too much. You could slide your stock plate forward & crank the starwheel in for now, though. A GSK won't hurt the trans, but will make it more fun to drive, and the higher RPM's you'll turn may help the trans by having the pressure & flow up.

Just my $.02
 
To add to the above advice:

- Get a service manual and adjust the bands and TV cable to spec
- ive been running 330whp through an older factory rebuilt 47RH for about 5,000 miles now with no ill effect... just dont go around expecting to do locked 2-3 upshifts all day with the stock internals (however it will do them with stock power :beatup:)
 
Hurley said:
To add to the above advice:
- Get a service manual and adjust the bands and TV cable to spec
- ive been running 330whp through an older factory rebuilt 47RH for about 5,000 miles now with no ill effect... just dont go around expecting to do locked 2-3 upshifts all day with the stock internals (however it will do them with stock power :beatup:)
Click to expand...

Think its out of spec after 500 miles on rebuild? It shifts nice and crisp.

what do you mean locked 2-3 upshifts?

what usually blows up? The torque converter? If that goes, does it take trans with it, or can I do that when it breaks?

I don't imagine I will be anywhere even close to that power. I just want to do the free and $20/$30 stuff. Fuel plate/boost elbow, adjust afc and intake/straight pipe. And i guess GSK.
 
- it would be good to check the spec for your own satisfaction

- many times people install manual torque converter lock-up switches; if you activate the switch @ nearly WOT and in 2nd gear, it will lock and BAM shift to third then BAM shift to OD - helps for acceleration

- first failure is usually the stock input - it snaps, then that damages the TC and pump

and not to be too preachy, but for the cheap:
- 35psi boost...elbow - $20
- grind stock plate flat & tune afc - free
- cone filter (intake not needed) - $50ish
- 4" DP to help with EGT's - $100ish
- hand made 3" intake horn (and heater grid delete if you're up to it) -$45ish
- homebrew 3k - $2.00 I'mnotshittingyouitworks
 
Hurley said:
- it would be good to check the spec for your own satisfaction
- many times people install manual torque converter lock-up switches; if you activate the switch @ nearly WOT and in 2nd gear, it will lock and BAM shift to third then BAM shift to OD - helps for acceleration
- first failure is usually the stock input - it snaps, then that damages the TC and pump
and not to be too preachy, but for the cheap:
- 35psi boost...elbow - $20
- grind stock plate flat & tune afc - free
- cone filter (intake not needed) - $50ish
- 4" DP to help with EGT's - $100ish
- hand made 3" intake horn (and heater grid delete if you're up to it) -$45ish
- homebrew 3k - $2.00 I'mnotshittingyouitworks
Click to expand...

No preachy, this is the info I need.

I wont be driving it like that. Not at all. Just for towing and parts hauling.

You talking about the washer trick for the 3k?
 
Yes, washer trick, I ended up with a shitty selection from lowes (on the fly trying to get ready for the dyno day) and got some that were, iirc, .103" thick. I run it in 5 solid clicks and it ran perfect the first time, fuels good to 3k and more or less wont go past 3200
 
72Rockcruiser said:
drive it like a sane person, and be OK? Or...?
Click to expand...
Wa whos gonna be driveing this thing then? Dont for get the kdp and i have some fuel plates that ill let you have to play aorund with. If you install the lock up switch be sure to turn it off when you come to a stop or it will either stall the motor or downshift realy realy hard.
Dont be scared off the auto its not as bad as they seam. Just take care of it.
 
I agree with checking the bands like Hurley said... not a bad idea.

I would NOT replace your fuel plate until you beef the trans, especially since this is your tow rig, but that's just me.

The factory TC clutches slip and can plug up the cooler, restricting flow, and baking the trans. they can also circulate little clutch bits which will eat the trans in short order.

Not to worry you, but the trans rebuilds are only as good as the builder.. how good is the one who did this one?
 
I agree with checking the bands like Hurley said... not a bad idea.

I would NOT replace your fuel plate until you beef the trans, especially since this is your tow rig, but that's just me.

The factory TC clutches slip and can plug up the cooler, restricting flow, and baking the trans. they can also circulate little clutch bits which will eat the trans in short order.

Not to worry you, but the trans rebuilds are only as good as the builder.. how good is the one who did this one?
 
I'm a fan of a "0" plate profile and letting the AFC do its thang - you can always pull the plate if there is an egt concern
 
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