Shifter Cable Bracket Design

orange150

orange150

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Fairfax City, VA
I'd like to get this bracket made this week but would really like some input on the design and on what material thickness to use.
I'm not quite sure if the design makes a difference for parts this small, but I'd hate to get this all cut out and installed then have it be too weak anywhere. This will be mounted to the face of the front output on the D300.

IMG_4036.JPG
 
Both of the ones Ive used in the past come down and catch the lower bolt as well beside the yoke to give it 3 mounting points.


I may be dreaming but I thought at one point @jeepinmatt had designed his own reverse mount and was talking about producing it?
 
orange150 said:
Yea I've got that covered on the outside bolts, marked below in red.

View attachment 249353
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If you can get the lower bolt on the inside, I would do that also.

Only suggestion, as to who... Give MudPro a call. He might be able to get you something. If you had an electronic design that might help better, though. I believe @M&M Offroad and @MarsFab both have plasma tables too, and are likely closer than Hickory if you wanted to pay one a visit.
 
I would use the extra thick cardboard like appliance boxes. That carboard doesn't look to have enough corrugation.

Sorry nothing useful to add other than Mudpro made my beadlock rings and they were top notch quality.
 
Looks a lot like the NWF reverse mount. Check theirs out and get some more diy ideas. Looks strong enough so long da you use 3/16" material or so.
 
I am not this creative but the bracket that came with my jb fab cables is 1/4". Also plan out where the cables need to be when the push and pull effect take place.

For mine, even though not the same, they bolt into the bracket underneath the case towards the rear. Definitely don't want to mess that part up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
rockcity said:
Looks a lot like the NWF reverse mount. Check theirs out and get some more diy ideas. Looks strong enough so long da you use 3/16" material or so.
Click to expand...

I'm copying their mount design. Difference is they mount the cables more towards the outer edge of the transfer case and I need them mounted closer to the transmission for floor pan clearance.

tknopp said:
If you don't need the 4 wheel drive dash light I would not worry about room for a connection and thicken the web all the way across.
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I don't need it, but I am trying to keep it. Just because.
 
I'd make it out of 3/8" just because its not much material, and it will give you a decent thickness for threading if needed.

Ron said:
Both of the ones Ive used in the past come down and catch the lower bolt as well beside the yoke to give it 3 mounting points.


I may be dreaming but I thought at one point @jeepinmatt had designed his own reverse mount and was talking about producing it?
Click to expand...
Yeah, I've done a couple. Basically replicated the front seal housings sticking out the back. First version was press fit and welded. I also did a threaded one. If I ever wanted to mass produce it, it needs some refinement and to be bolt on. Works fine as a custom application where everything is well fitted together, but lever routing can be tricky. Plenty of pics here: https://goo.gl/photos/5zRYugnqGFYX8Mks5
And teaser shot:
P1050287 (1).JPG
 
Here's REV04... I think. Changed the front shifter mounting location to follow the top of the transfer case and not the bottom of the bracket. I also added extra webbing in that area, that other switch does nothing, I had a spare that I'm using as a plug.

I also didn't cut the bottom out so that I could add another bottom bolt. Do y'all think that is really needed? NWF only uses three on theirs which is why I'm using three.

IMG_4041.JPG


@jeepinmatt damn...
 
Looking at your template, it looks like you have plenty of room to shift the cable mount holes directly above the shift rails. I'd think you'd want the directly over the rails for better function
 
rockcity said:
Looking at your template, it looks like you have plenty of room to shift the cable mount holes directly above the shift rails. I'd think you'd want the directly over the rails for better function
Click to expand...

If I wasn't trying to retain my 4wd indicator I could do that, but I'm also trying to stay 2" or less total height, which I think limits me.

Final(?) revision. Added a drop leg to gain a fourth bolt location.

IMG_4053.JPG
 
rockcity said:
Looking at your template, it looks like you have plenty of room to shift the cable mount holes directly above the shift rails. I'd think you'd want the directly over the rails for better function
Click to expand...

As short of a distance as possible so end of the push-pull cable isn't loaded in bending (which can cause friction at the ferrule), but that doesn't have to mean directly over the rails. Think of it as a centerline distance from the rail axis to the push-pull cable axis. Minimize that distance for best performance.

Actually, I just looked at the NWF setup, and their design is pretty clever. They notch the rail bracket/adapter so it doesn't rotate about the hole in the rail, which means the distance to the cable axis really isn't very important anymore. That's an easier way than drilling an extra hole in each rail so the bracket adapter will have 2 fasteners to keep it from rotating.
You still do want to minimize that distance for friction and side loads on the rails (and the rail bushings or whatever they have to guide the rails), and adapter compliance, etc., but that's a good solution to reversing the cable direction.
 
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