Side to side (body) movement in 4-link

will you please clarify - you talking 'play' in the suspension or actual motion of the system during articulation?
 
like you can take the body and push it side to side. I finally got mine finished yesterday and took it outside to cruise around. It feels completely stable but when it's parked I can push the front of the jeep back and forth. I've already tossed the question out to someone smarter than me about it but I wanted to know what others thought too. What's within the range of acceptable?
 
First a couple questions:

1) what type of joints are you using? Heims, Johnny joints, tractor links, heims have plastic races?

2) is it single/double triangulated and/or does it have pan hard bar?

3) if triangulated how much total angle of triangulation of uppers and lowers when viewed from above?
 
There shouldn't be any side to side movement in the suspension. There may be a fair amount in the sidewall of the tires though so if you are just pushing it side to side on level ground that is probably what you are feeling. I know that is how mine is. If there is movement in the suspension side to side its not gonna drive so good. You would notice it right away.
 
First a couple questions:

1) what type of joints are you using? Heims, Johnny joints, tractor links, heims have plastic races?

2) is it single/double triangulated and/or does it have pan hard bar?

3) if triangulated how much total angle of triangulation of uppers and lowers when viewed from above?

#1 - Heims

#2 - Double but the lowers don't have a lot

#3 - I'll have to post a pic but I'd say the uppers are 30° and the lowers are maybe 15-20°
 
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There shouldn't be any side to side movement in the suspension. There may be a fair amount in the sidewall of the tires though so if you are just pushing it side to side on level ground that is probably what you are feeling. I know that is how mine is. If there is movement in the suspension side to side its not gonna drive so good. You would notice it right away.
It felt stable even when I was cutting some pretty sweet donuts.
 
Not the best picture but you can kind of tell what's up. Also, before anyone pipes up about it I plan to replace one of the fittings on the ram and put a bigger spacer on the passenger knuckle steering :flipoff2:
20150308_184921.jpg
 
#1 - Heims

#2 - Double but the lowers don't have a lot

#3 - I'll have to post a pic but I'd say the uppers are 30° and the lowers are maybe 15-20°

Just as long as you have minimum 40 degrees total triangulation.

I've had same problem on mine and it would only move 1/2" or so side to side due to play in heim itself even with brand new heims and bolts.

I preloaded the uppers against one another to tighten it up a little. Not enough to change pinion angle or alignment. Just induced a slight bind at ride height.

Shouldn't hurt anything as long as it's not excessive movement: <1/2" IMO
 
That doesn't look like it should have any play to speak of. How long are the links roughly? And are you sure it's not the holes in the brackets that may be sloppy?
 
That doesn't look like it should have any play to speak of. How long are the links roughly? And are you sure it's not the holes in the brackets that may be sloppy?
tops are roughly 28" and the lowers are 36"
 
Are we talking body roll or just the body moves like something is loose I would think that would be very bad if that's the case
 
Nick,
Are the jam nuts tight on the heims?

Yeah I thought they were. I'll check again. I will say this, it's tough to get to the jam nuts. I tightened them the best I could. Maybe I'll get a short video I can post of what I'm seeing.
how much wider are your mounts vs the width of the joint?

are the jam nuts tight?
I've thought about this. Maybe I just need to tighten the piss out of the bolt and squeeze the mount some more.
 
Something is loose. You are on the right track. Jam nuts and link bolts will cause movement. Or slightly worn heims.
 
I've thought about this. Maybe I just need to tighten the piss out of the bolt and squeeze the mount some more.

I added a spacer to my tabs in hopes that I wouldnt have to bent them back out after final welding to get the joint back in. Im hoping I dont have an issue like what your having.

What size bolts are you running? not 9/16"? The reason I ask is that some companies that make tabs make them for larger bolts than 9/16" Barnes is an example. If that is the case there are weld on reducers that are available.
 
Something is loose. You are on the right track. Jam nuts and link bolts will cause movement. Or slightly worn heims.
These are brand hammer new so I hope they're not loose already :poop:
I added a spacer to my tabs in hopes that I wouldnt have to bent them back out after final welding to get the joint back in. Im hoping I dont have an issue like what your having.

What size bolts are you running? not 9/16"? The reason I ask is that some companies that make tabs make them for larger bolts than 9/16" Barnes is an example. If that is the case there are weld on reducers that are available.
I am running Barnes brackets but with a 5/8" bolt hole. I didn't get the chance to check it out last night but I'm going to look again today.
 
Sounds like you need new panhard bar bushings :p
 
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