sm465 peice of sh*t

meatheadwes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2009
Location
kings mountain
i get get my damn clutch to work right everything is new new clutch fork master and slave cylinder new throw out bearing. the pedal is nice and firm but want disengage the clutch all the way. any body ever have this problem bled and bled the lines but aint helping
 
the clutch disk aint backwards i know that for sure. the pilot bearing looks fine to just cant seem to get my pedal back where it was when i started. i just cant see how so much air can be in the line.
 
the clutch disk aint backwards i know that for sure. the pilot bearing looks fine to just cant seem to get my pedal back where it was when i started. i just cant see how so much air can be in the line.

Did you take it all back apart and check both?

Push pedal and hold, open bleeder screw.

Close bleeder screw.

Release pedal.

Repeat.

Pumping only causes the air bubbles to break apart and get smaller and harder to get out.
 
Want some help?
Let me know.
Dre is in the 28086 hood.
Just saying.......
 
yeah this is my second run with this thing. first attempt at bleeding was done wrong. was pumped. im working with the long bleed strokes now. sky fell out when i was workin on it earlier maybe the air bubbles will now gather back in one what fluid should i be using brake fluid or what? thats what was in it and where you from redneckcj5guy
 
me and redneckcj5guy mess with it tonight managed to get all the air out of the master cylinder. still not right got alot of movement with the fork but not disengageing clutch fully. leaning towards what transman731 said above but seeing as ive drove the truck for 2 and half months with no issue till i change the fork and throw out bearing i cant see how that can be becuase i didnt mess with the clutch its self. hopefully be able to find out more this weekend
 
ok, i didn't realize that's all you did. why did you change the fork/bearing?
can you get a prybar against the fork? have someone push the clutch in and stick the prybar in there and see if you can move the fork farther.
did you check the rods in the slave cyl. was the original rod longer by any chance?
 
ok, i didn't realize that's all you did. why did you change the fork/bearing?
can you get a prybar against the fork? have someone push the clutch in and stick the prybar in there and see if you can move the fork farther.
did you check the rods in the slave cyl. was the original rod longer by any chance?
the clutch fork clips that hold it to the bearing. one had broke off and was raddeling so i changed the fork and bearing all together i got alot of movment when pedal is pushed in i crawled under the truck and pushed fork with a pry bar and dr.dre bumped the started it still moved forward when in gear
 
the clutch fork clips that hold it to the bearing. one had broke off and was raddeling so i changed the fork and bearing all together i got alot of movment when pedal is pushed in i crawled under the truck and pushed fork with a pry bar and dr.dre bumped the started it still moved forward when in gear
No. It moved in gear with the clutch depressed.
It did not move when you used the pry bar to push on the clutch fork.
I agree with @transman731
Clutch disc is in backwards.
We shall soon see..............
 
If it worked before he changed the bearing/fork/slave cylinder, I would think that the problem is in one of those. Does he still have the old parts? If so make sure the replacements are the same.
 
Any noise or chatter.............a guy I know well installed a new ( to him ) trans. and tc in his Toyota by himself, in the yard w a floorjack on 2x10s and had a much similar problem..............after much cursing, bleeding, cursing, drinking troubleshooting ( not all in order and repeated ) he popped the boot off the fork and used a mirror and flashlight to see the twisted fork. The fork apparently popped 1/2 off while he struggled, cursed, wiggled, jacked, twisted, in/outed the thang trying to send it home, laying on the grass w the skeeters........... Satisfied when it stuck good, he had put EVERYTHING back together w/o this important information........... He could not really tell the fork was twisted on the tabs from looking @ the slave side of the fork while troubleshooting, but the crowbar worked and peek inside showed the problem. It worked MUCH better after the fork was put in it's place on the TO bearing.
 
Last edited:
Any noise or chatter.............a guy I know well installed a new ( to him ) trans. and tc in his Toyota by himself, in the yard w a floorjack on 2x10s and had a much similar problem..............after much cursing, bleeding, cursing, drinking troubleshooting ( not all in order and repeated ) he popped the boot off the fork and used a mirror and flashlight to see the twisted fork. The fork apparently popped 1/2 off while he struggled, cursed, wiggled, jacked, twisted, in/outed the thang trying to send the it home, laying on the grass w the skeeters........... Satisfied when it stuck good, he had put EVERYTHING back together w/o this important information........... He could not really tell the fork was twisted on the tabs from looking @ the slave side of the fork while troubleshooting, but the crowbar worked and peek inside showed the problem. It worked MUCH better after the fork was put in it's place on the TO bearing.
thinking we found the problem the throw out bearing is junked
 
if i remember correctly, i think there are 3 different forks. also the bearing can be installed wrong on the fork. if the disc were in backwards the prybar wouldn't have worked
im gonna send you some pics on here when i get a chance to take em of my fork and the throw out bearings
 
Back
Top