Snorkle alternatives

5lugger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2014
Just hydrolocked my motor out at durhamtown GA about two weeks ago, and I am looking for ways to avoid that. Obviously a snorkle is the right solution but I hate, with a passion, the way they look. So what are some alternatives? I was thinking about running the intake into the glove box, then dynamatting the sh*t out of it so it wasn't supper noisey, but would the intake get enough flow if I did that? And would the dynamat help with the noise? I've heard it's actually pretty loud. Second option is running the intake under the truck into the bed, then into my tool box. Do you guys think that the airflow would be restricted this way? Even if I ran like 3 inch tube?
 
What vehicle? What engine? Staying out of the mud and water is the best idea but you can always run ducting inside the cab and that way you can monitor what goes in if you can tolerate the noise.
 
If he's upsizing to 3" tube for the intake I'm guessing the motor is something 4 cylinder.

If so, that does t suck nearly as much air as a LS motor which can be loud in the cab.

I would run it in the cab somewhere and be done and learn to accept the slight added noise. Maybe just turn the radio up a little more to drown out the noise? :)
 
rockcity said:
If so, that does t suck nearly as much air as a LS motor which can be loud in the cab.
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No kidding! I had a flipped intake on my 6.0 for about a month and immediately re flipped it after a few road miles. Couldn't take it anymore! :lol:
 
Best snorkel alternative; as stated, is to stay out of the water
 
Dynomat doesn't absorb sound. Its intended use is for adding mass to sheetmetal panels to decrease resonation.
 
Sorry guys it's a 92 Toyota with the v6 3.0 and staying out of the mud isn't an option hahah. I didn't mean to drown the mofo and I won't be going tht deep again but I do enjoy the average mud hole what not. You guys think running a 3 inch tube from the intake to the back of the truck into the bed would reduce my air flow?
 
And I would love to run it in the glovebox but it is my DD so I would have to figure out how to get the noise down
 
I feel like 'staying out of the water' is the best solution but not very good technical advice on an intake problem. Thats like me saying... "want to save money and have more productive time, stop wheeling and buying parts!" You can build a rig to handle water, they do it overseas as a religion. I believe its the US and Canada that are the only ones that actually tip-toe around water.

In-cab snorkles are fine, especially if you have a 4-6 cylinder, the higher volume of flow you can create by bumping up the tubing size, the quieter it will get. If you put it in the glove box, the box itself will deflect the direct noise. Not saying you wont hear anything, but it shouldn't be aggravating. And if your just putting around, I doubt you'll really hear anything at all. But, keep in mind backfires... i've seen a few and they suck.

But, there's a TON of other issues that come along with drowning your vehicles.... which is the main reason most people don't want to even bother dipping their feet in, in the first place.

If you plan on water crossing, you better plan on repacking bearings, greasing joints, checking/replacing fluids, EVERY F TIME. Also, waterproofing EVERYTHING, plugs, wirings, winches, distributes, breathers, computers, lights, yada yada.... anything electric or needs to mechanically function.

I have a v8 with a 4" in cab and the biggest filter I could find. Its exposed with no deflection of any kind. When driving around at 1000 - 1500 its minimally noticable... if I get on it, you know it, but again, not really all that bad considering. Ive ran a 6 cylinder with 3" exposed, just sounded like the fan on the blower was on medium...

Hope this helps.... good luck.
 
And I would suggest NOT running the intake under the truck, more possibilities for failure, and then you have a bad a* twisty straw going right into the lake. :)
 
Yeah under the truck probably isn't the smartest idea, I'm going to try it in the glove box and see how that works out. What's probably the bet material to use for this?
 
Right now it inducts air from the back of the right headlight, even if I moved the intake to the firewall my level of protection would increase a lot I believe
 
not sure if it would work but you could see if you are able to route it up to the cowl in front of the windshield, they make a kit for TJs to see a reference
 
Yeah people have done that but I'm not a fan of it, when it rains that area is suppose to help drain water and it doesn't have the added protection of being covered by the hood
 
if you were to u turn the intake back towards the cab it would make a big difference. Usually your nose will drop in first and go under and then itll level out after the back tires fall in. I did the same thing with the intake of me cherokee awhile back... the stupid intakes are right at the front...and all it takes is a steep grade into a foot deep creek bed to submerge the grill. We use to call it the 'splash factor'
 
davidsTJ said:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Snorkel.shtml found this
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Sweet thanks man that's exactly what I'm thinking about.

And that "splash factor" is exactly what caused my motor to drown.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1426889650.980786.jpg
 
DMiller said:
I feel like 'staying out of the water' is the best solution but not very good technical advice on an intake problem. Thats like me saying... "want to save money and have more productive time, stop wheeling and buying parts!" You can build a rig to handle water, they do it overseas as a religion. I believe its the US and Canada that are the only ones that actually tip-toe around water.
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women also dont shave over seas. just because it happens accross the pond doesnt mean its a good idea.


snorkels are for getting clean air in dusty environments. just moving your snorkel up isnt going to save you from water.

axle and tcase breathers need to go up as well. right now your getting water into your pumpkins, know what thats doin to your gears and carrier?

Electronic items under the hood are also susceptible to water damage, i.e. ecu's, pcm's, distributors, etc... these all need to be filled with dielectric grease (where applicaple) and sealed and caulked. of course now you are in danger of overheating electronics.

over seas its done on diesels. fewer electronics.



telling you to stay out of the water is the best technical advice anyone can give.

4x4s arent boats.


and the EPA fine for leaking oil into a federal water way (that puddle of mud deep enough for a childs sail boat) is massive.
 
Some thoughts:

- as mentioned, flipping the intake up and around so it faces the firewall, up against the hood will go a long way. On my 4cyl, I'm running a 3" AFL off of a Supra like this, just use 2 90 deg elbows to U it around.
- another option is to run a pipe into the cab as mentioned; however, along that pipe up under the hood place in a valve, or even just a T, and a removable cap, that comes off the side and intakes right there under the hood.. 95% of the time when you're running on the road, cap or block of fthe end going into teh cab and leave the other end open. Then when you hit the trail, just flip to the other intake hole.
 
DMiller said:
I feel like 'staying out of the water' is the best solution but not very good technical advice on an intake problem. Thats like me saying... "want to save money and have more productive time, stop wheeling and buying parts!" You can build a rig to handle water, they do it overseas as a religion. I believe its the US and Canada that are the only ones that actually tip-toe around water.
Click to expand...

Ironically, the rest of the world seems to have a problem finding decent drinking water, too.
 
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