so frustrated! is this normal?

Zebbie

Zebbie

Active Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2009
Location
Rock Hill SC
Here is my frustration: I bought my first boat. Got a good deal on it because it needed the timing belt replaced. I took it to a shop and they have had it for 7 weeks now. They had to special order the timing belt (took a week), rebuild carburetor, replace two things with ignition (less than 2 days), he says he is having trouble putting the cooling system back together because it is leaking so he ordered new seals. I only got one estimate for timing belt and carburetor $700. That was 4 weeks ago. This is my first time dealing with a boat mechanic. Does it normally take this long with boats? Am I getting ripped off?

Boat is a 1983 Dixie bandit with Volvo penta 4 cylinder engine
 
I was there many years ago. A couple of weeks turned into many weeks more weeks. After that, I learned how to work on my own. They are pretty easy. Just get a manuel go to town.
 
Congrades on the boat purchase...
B.O.A.T- bust out another THOUSAND...
The boat stuff can be fun to get parts for. A good mechanic will order all the parts upfront. They know what all they need.
I have a 86 with same motor, great setup if you dont want to pull more than one up at a time....
 
I've been through it with a few marine mechanics. Eventually I weeded out the bad by talking to the on the water every weekend, sponsored, tournament fishermen in the area. And I eventually ditched the ragged ass Mercury Optimax's for a pair of Evinrude's the I've learned to work on myself and got a copy of the diag software and all. Doing it yourself will save you a ton, and if you're able to work on a trail rig you can work on a boat.
www.thehulltruth.com or
http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/forumdisplay.php?7-Volvo-Penta-Gas-Engine-Forum
Both are a big help, and many internal parts are likely interchangable with run of the mill autozone parts. A little interweb trolling and some head scratching, wrench turning, and cussing at it will normally let you avoid the $70 an hour labor bill.
 
1983Bronco said:
I'm on a boat mother f**ker
Sorry just wanted an excuse to say that
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I'm on a boat and it's going fast and I got a nautical theme pass me an afghan..............
 
1983Bronco said:
I'm on a boat mother f**ker
Sorry just wanted an excuse to say that
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HAHAHAHA too funny!!!

man it sounds like you are getting shafted here. shouldnt be that hard to put the cooling system back together, he should have had new seals to begin with. you never use old gaskets. i would raise hell till its right and you get your boat back at a reasonable price. then never go back there again!
 
Yes you are getting ripped off. I dealt with a few in Rock Hill and was never satisfied. I finally took one to Couick Marine in Waxhaw and they fixed me up right and quick. That was many years ago but Ray Couick still owns and runs the place so I would go again if needed.
 
silveryota said:
Here is my frustration: I bought my first boat.
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That was all I needed to read. There is your mistake.

Never own a boat or an airplane. I've got a friend who owns one of each. I regularly give him ultimate shit when he mentions the money he has to dump into them to keep them going.
 
what shops it at? Sounds like carolina auto marine on mt gallant
 
^^^^^^ holy crap!! I tried not to say any details about the shop. It could be one of many in Charlotte and rock hill. That is so scary u guested it just like that.

Thanks guys for the advise!! I do a lot of work myself on my rig and maintence on wifes car but I thought timing belt was a little beyond my skills then it snowballed from there. Any new things that go wrong I am definitly gonna try to fix myself first.

DemonDave thanks for the links. They will be a big help!

I have today off work so I'm gonna go by there later an see what is going on.
 
If you decide to tackle it yourself I could lend a hand. Schedule allowing of course.
 
This time of year it is pretty common with a lot of shops. Ask around and find a better shop for the things you can't do by yourself.
 
first thing to do is find out what engine it has and what it was used in besides a boat. Then buy a repair manual for it. Volvo-Penta made the outdrive and stuck their name on the engine. Inboard and stern drive boat engines are usally based off a car or industrial engine. If you do your own work on your trucks/cars a boat aint that different. My last boat had a Mercruiser outdrive with an 250ci inline 6 cyl chevy engine. A "boat" fuel pump was well over a $100. A fuel pump for a mid 70s chevy truck was less the $20. It was the exact same part.Some parts are different for boats but a lot are direct swap for their car counterpart.
 
A "boat" fuel pump was well over a $100. A fuel pump for a mid 70s chevy truck was less the $20. It was the exact same part.Some parts are different for boats but a lot are direct swap for their car counterpart.
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I can't speak for your particular engine, but I'm pretty sure all boat fuel pumps are designed to leak fuel into the carb if the diaphragm breaks rather than dripping onto the ground. Kinda crucial since boats tend to blow up when gas fumes build up in the enclosed engine compartment. The Coast Guard regulates this stuff.

Marine starters and alternators will have a flame arrestor to prevent sparks from reaching the engine bay. Carbs are different as well to prevent fuel and vapor leakage.

Long story short, putting car parts on your boat is generally a good way to blow up. Get carbs, alternators, & starters rebuilt rather than replaced if you want to save money and run the right fuel pump.
 
Fart said:
generally a good way to blow up.
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I guess I don't really want that. Haha

looks like owning a boat is a lot like wheeling. Both r extemely expensive hobbies. Damn it I'm doing both. Guess it's time for a new job.
 
RHSCTJ said:
If you decide to tackle it yourself I could lend a hand. Schedule allowing of course.
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thank u very much!!!!!! It is great to no there are awesome people in the world!! I hope they r about done with it. I will let u no how it goes.
 
Fart said:
I can't speak for your particular engine, but I'm pretty sure all boat fuel pumps are designed to leak fuel into the carb if the diaphragm breaks rather than dripping onto the ground. Kinda crucial since boats tend to blow up when gas fumes build up in the enclosed engine compartment. The Coast Guard regulates this stuff.

Marine starters and alternators will have a flame arrestor to prevent sparks from reaching the engine bay. Carbs are different as well to prevent fuel and vapor leakage.

Long story short, putting car parts on your boat is generally a good way to blow up. Get carbs, alternators, & starters rebuilt rather than replaced if you want to save money and run the right fuel pump.
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Please explain how a mech. fuel pump with only 2 lines ( one in and one out ) can leak fuel into the carb. The crank case yes the carb I just dont see it. Starters and alts would fall into my "some parts are different" category. Buy the way fuel line also falls into that category. Timing sets and gaskets not so much.
 
I don't have one in front of me to look at, but a quick search of Google reveals some good info...

Regarding the fuel pump for a Mercruiser 302:

The marine fuel pump, which is still available, has a reservoir for fuel if the primary diafragm fails. Marine pumps have double diafragms, automotive pumps have one and spill fuel through a hole if it fails.
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The stripper or overflow tube routes gas to the carburator where it is burned instead of spilled into the bilges.
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http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/diy-marinizing/fuel-pump-merc-302-ford-1582.html

From the Holley Installation Guide:
NOTE: Marine 712- fuel pumps have a fume tube on the base of the pump, this tube should be hooked to a direct vacuum
source on the engine. This is a safety feature for marine that in the case of a fuel leak internally in the pump, the fuel
will be pulled into the engine and not leak into the engine compartment.
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http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R7914-3.pdf

Maybe I was wrong about it leaking into the carb. Maybe some leak into the carb and some leak elsewhere. Whether the leaking fuel goes into the crank, carb, intake manifold, etc. is really irrelevant as long as it's not leaking into the bilge. The main thing is that there is a difference here between the marine part and the car part in many cases.

Maybe someone put a car part on your boat before you bought it and that's why they looked the same? Maybe it was from an era before newer regulations. Maybe the differences are internal (like the double diaphragm) and can't be seen from outside the casing.

I'd probably have to have some solid proof that there is no difference (like personally dissecting both parts) before I'd risk personal injury or a lawsuit over $80 though.
 
fart, just dont ride in lugnuts boat. problem solved, i deserve a nobel peace prize.
 
What's bad is that my neighbor's Supra has a automotive version Holley 650, a car starter, and who knows what else yet I still ride in it when it's actually running. :rolleyes: I don't have a good excuse for that one to be honest. Just kinda hoping the engine cover absorbs the blast and I can grab a good life jacket before it drops to the bottom of the lake if it blows. :popcorn:
 
In the end it all worked out.. i spent the last 2 days there getting it ready (removing old registration stickers etc.) yesterday he was all done with it and it ran excellent. He hooked me up with discounts on parts and labor. i feel i got a better price than if i would have went anywhere else. i am very excited about getting it into the water Sunday. Hopefully she runs as good in the water as on the trailer!
 
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