So how bad is the insurance company going to screw me?

Met with the adjuster this morning. He seems like a down to earth kind of guy, his family rides four wheelers and dirt bikes at URE. When he drove up tot he jeep and saw my ASU and NRA stickers on the jeep he said he would treat me right :lol:

I handed him a stack of receipts, credit card statements, and PayPal statements, so we will see how he uses them.

He thinks the jeep is totaled based on value, I told him I wanted to keep the jeep, and he said he would as well. He also said that even if the jeep is totaled, I can still keep the jeep and get some cash... how does that work?
 
He's basic telling you that you can ORS "owner retain the Salvage". Works like this: if the value of the Jeep is $2000, than the insurance co can pay you that amount & take the vehicle. Or you can ORS at the slvage qoute, which is usually a % of the value, let's say 20% of the $2000, so the ORS is $400. So they will let you keep the vehicle & pay you $1600. This means that the vehicle will now have a "Salvaged Title".

Hope that make's sense...
 
I handed him a stack of receipts, credit card statements, and PayPal statements, so we will see how he uses them.
Click to expand...

You should really check replacement cost; especially if you purchased any of this stuff used or discounted on a site like eBay. The cost of an item 5 years ago may not reflect the replacement cost today even if you have a receipt and purchased it new from the vendor.

If it were my Jeep I'd be arguing that I need it back now and I can't spend time scouring eBay for replacement parts even though I might have done it to build it to the level originally. No idea if that would work, but I think it's a reasonable argument. I don't see why you should be out any money for equivalent replacement parts at today's prices.
 
lefty said:
He's basic telling you that you can ORS "owner retain the Salvage". Works like this: if the value of the Jeep is $2000, than the insurance co can pay you that amount & take the vehicle. Or you can ORS at the slvage qoute, which is usually a % of the value, let's say 20% of the $2000, so the ORS is $400. So they will let you keep the vehicle & pay you $1600. This means that the vehicle will now have a "Salvaged Title".
Hope that make's sense...
Click to expand...

Makes perfect sense, that is what I would like to do because I really want to keep the jeep and just fix it back to where it was. Thanks for clearing it up! :beer:


Fart said:
You should really check replacement cost; especially if you purchased any of this stuff used or discounted on a site like eBay. The cost of an item 5 years ago may not reflect the replacement cost today even if you have a receipt and purchased it new from the vendor.

If it were my Jeep I'd be arguing that I need it back now and I can't spend time scouring eBay for replacement parts even though I might have done it to build it to the level originally. No idea if that would work, but I think it's a reasonable argument. I don't see why you should be out any money for equivalent replacement parts at today's prices.
Click to expand...

Fortunately (or unfortunately however you look at it) most of these parts were purchased in the last 12 months. I haven't even had the jeep on 35s for a year yet :(
 
EasySteve said:
Care to be more specific?
Who do you work for?
Click to expand...


Just that he has himself into a negotations spot. As I stated, yes he has alot of money tied up in add on's, but he has reduced the marketable of the vehicle by doing so. Not everyone is going to have the same taste that he does. At the end of the day he still has 19## Jeep Cherokee w/ X amount of miles on it, that is worth X. Then adjustments need to made for the add on's.

Therefor I am just interested to see how it work's out for him.
 
Keep in mind you might have driveshaft/t-case issues from the shock, I'm assuming it was in Park when hit.
 
RatLabGuy said:
Keep in mind you might have driveshaft/t-case issues from the shock, I'm assuming it was in Park when hit.
Click to expand...

Good point, I hadn't really thought about that. It was in park with the ebrake engaged.
 
As with most small car vs. Big, the small one goes under the frame. Looks like U got lucky on that point. And the ARB,& winch helped. Good point on checking the trans/transfer, DS, mounts & linkage. Probably will end up totaled, with U getting a settlement + salvage. Eons ago I rolled a truck; totaled, until I produced all the add ons, Ins. repaired=6-8 mo in body shop; Id been better off with salvage, & rebuilding better the second time. GOOD LUCK
 
That reminds me: Check your winch! I have heard of accidents messing up a winch.

Probably not, but considering the price tag of a new one, its worth the 20 minutes to check it out.
 
RatLabGuy said:
Clay, I see you're shopping for, well, a shop.
what happened w/ the ins. co?
Click to expand...

Adjuster said it was probably going to be totaled, but he hasn't given me a settlement yet.

Main reason for looking for a shop is to get the wrecked jeep off the road in front of my house (wife is only so tolerant :lol:)

So anyone know a good shop in around Greensboro?
 
be SURE to press for a rental car, they have to provide one (and must match general "class" of your vehicle" until it is resolved and you get a check in hand. Even if it isn't really your DD.
Aside from convenience, the main reason is that it puts them in the clench to get it resolved and closed with you... which gives you some haggling power, every day you hold out costs them $$. Meanwhile there is nothing forcing you to accept what they "offer" if you don't feel it's fair.
 
Keep all the bills of your mods ready so that you can claim them from the other party’s liability insurance. They might try to tell you they do not cover those, but get an estimate of the damage from your own body shop and make sure you don’t accept anything less from the car insurance company than your estimated amount. It will not happen overnight so be prepared for a lengthy process. All the best!
 
Back
Top