Some progress pics of the YJ... finally

336wheeler said:
Thanks for the pictures, that's what I had in mind but I guess it's hard to really explain it without pictures. Here are some pictures of my 2161 cell and how it's mounted (did that a long time ago, just adding the pics), and my shock mounts I made yesterday.

Cell:
ai212.photobucket.com_albums_cc116_336wheeler_09_20_07_1720.jpg


Shock Mounts:
ai212.photobucket.com_albums_cc116_336wheeler_unknown_2.jpg
Click to expand...

If it were me, and I realize it isn't but if it were, I would add some gussets to the shock mounts.
 
Yeah, I probably will be, just ran out of time to do it yesterday. A question about shock mounts: I left the stock shock mount on the frame, and put these shock mounts on my spring plates. Because I moved the axle about 3.5" inches back, the shock would probably be sitting at about a 60 degree angle, from the front of the vehicle to the back. It's 18 inches from the frame shock mount to the spring plate shock mount, and at a 60 degree. Will this work or will I just be bending shocks?
 
I would want to test cycle the suspension to check it for bind but 60* seams like a lot to me. Again though, without being there to see them.....I am just speculating.

Definitely cycle it through full drop and full compression to check it and if it binds I believe you may have your answer.....
 
That's not my jeep, and that's the rear of one, haha. I can get pictures of it soon.
 
Changed all 4 yokes today, put in the front driveshaft, rear will probably go in tomorrow. It's getting closer. I need to order shocks - any input? I'm on a budget for them. I was thinking the rubicon express SOA DT3000's. The fronts are right at 19" collapsed and the rears right at 15" collapsed. From eye-to-eye in the front is about 25", and the rear is 18" recommended shock lengths? I was thinking that the front is about the perfect length, but I'm thinking that the rear should be about 12" collapsed.
 
I have some shocks I'd sell cheap.

Two 14" travel, ~35" extended, ~21" collapsed
Two 12" travel, guessing 32" extended and 20" compressed, but I may be wrong.

I think the 14" ones are superlift shocks, the other two are rough countrys I think.

Bilstein 5100's are the BEST shocks I would reccomend, and if you are looking for "cheap" to last until you can get some Bil's, then I will sell all 4 of these for $40. The two 14" ones have dents in the can (one in each), but they still work fine.
 
I might be interested in those 14 inchers. The other ones... my stud-to-stud in the back is 18 inches, so there is no way it could work. Have any shorter ones?
 
More pics. I started the rear bumper - it's going to have d-rings and the capped ends will look a lot better than they do right now. Just a construction picture -
ai212.photobucket.com_albums_cc116_336wheeler_09_29_07_1735.jpg



The requested picture of the outboarded shackle hangers:
ai212.photobucket.com_albums_cc116_336wheeler_09_29_07_1342.jpg


I know someone is going to flame for having a shackle hanger 2 inches off of the frame, but it works really well for my set-up, so whatever.
 
Now that you show me that picture, I'm pretty sure I've seen your YJ before. Was it at a DPG open ride over the summer? Or... was it sitting at medallion motors in high point for a while?
 
Can't really tell from the pics of the rear bumper, I know you said you were going to change the side plates. Cut them small enough so you can weld them on to the tube in the back and not have to grind all the weld off to get it smooth.

Also, I haven't measured the shocks yet, but I haven't forgotten...
 
I was going to get some opinions on the rear springs. I'm running a 7 leaf waggy pack, with the bottom leaf removed (the one that is like 8" long), making it 6 leaves. I'm running a 70U on 39.5s, but I'm getting about 90% of my flex through the front springs. The back simply just doesn't weigh enough to be able to compress the springs. I have a fuel cell back there, but that is virtually all the weight behind the front seats. I thought about taking a main leaf out.. how will that do for spring pack longevity? The front is pretty flexy, and if I could get it working on all 4 corners, I'd be sitting nice.
 
Leave it alone until:

you fill the fuel cell, load your spares, tools, recovery gear, Hi-Lift, fluids and FIRE EXTINGUISHERS...

*Then* start putzing with it...
 
Thanks all. Yeah, the 70-1SU is just like a beefed up version of a regular 70-U. I'm doing a disc conversion on it in the very near future with Ruff Stuff disc brackets, so I will keep that updated, most likely with a write-up and pictures. As for the leafs, I can't forsee carrying spare parts and tools weighing all that much. I'm not carrying a spare because of the double beadlocks, so I'm thinking maybe 100 lbs extra, at best. Hopefully they'll soften up though. If they don't, I'll just take a main leaf out. I still have my K5, but I'm trying to get rid of it to get the funding to finish this project.
 
Well, haven't had too much time to work on it recently, but this week I decided to tackle a rear stretch. I used 4" x 4" box tubing to box the rear of the frame, and 54" 2wd (4 leaf) dakota springs. It's a 22"/32" spring/ center pin deal.

The new stuff ready to go on:
ai212.photobucket.com_albums_cc116_336wheeler_unknown_4.jpg


How it looks on there and welded up:
ai212.photobucket.com_albums_cc116_336wheeler_11_08_07_1707.jpg


Painted and with the axle under there (disregard that tail light... I just wanted to see what it'd look like on there) :
ai212.photobucket.com_albums_cc116_336wheeler_11_08_07_1802.jpg


Profile shot from the side, sitting at 107" WB:
ai212.photobucket.com_albums_cc116_336wheeler_11_08_07_1950.jpg
 
3/8" sliders
ai212.photobucket.com_albums_cc116_336wheeler_11_17_07_1737.jpg


ai212.photobucket.com_albums_cc116_336wheeler_unknown_3_1.jpg
 
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