Spicer Ultimate Dana 60s built for JKU... swap to LJ

Altonymous

Altonymous

Lost Wheelin'
Joined
Nov 4, 2013
Location
Clayton, NC
I have the opportunity to get some used Spicer Ultimate Dana 60s that were built for a JKU.
- 4.88, Electric Lockers F&R, Warn Lockout Hubs up front
They will complete complete end to end including some 17" wheels with brand new 37" Cooper Discoverer Pro STTs.
Here's a link to the axles:
I'd like to do a 4-link in the rear and 3-link with trackbar in the front. (Savvy Mid-Arm Kit) Also, I'd like to outboard my 6-pak shocks from MetalCloak in the process.
Right now this is how Yeticon is built:
  • 3.5" MetalCloak Spring Lift w/ 6pak Shocks
  • JKS Body Lift 1.25"
  • Brown Dog Offroad Motor Mount Lift 1" - Rubber
  • Currie Rear Track Bar
  • Currie Front Track Bar
  • Front Anti-Rock
  • Rear Anti-Rock
  • Currie Ultimate Steering Kit
  • Fox Steering Stabilizer
  • Novak Transfer Case Cable Shifter NP241
  • Savvy Under Armor
  • Tom Woods Rear Drive Shaft
  • Tom Woods Front Drive Shaft
  • MetalCloak Rocker Rail
  • MetalCloak 6" Overline Front
  • MetalCloak 6" Rear
My question is... what will I need to change about them to get them to fit under my LJ?
I can make some assumptions, but I'd rather not base my decision based on my assumptions. I'd rather get a clearer picture of what I'm in for.
Thanks in advance!
 
This should give you an idea I would think, they also make a rear truss. I know you’re using different axles but food for thought.

Artec Industries JK2TJ Front Axle Swap Kit with Truss

44b4c364e9cea40e47f704e650308c71.jpg


If you’re using a Savvy Mid arm kit the frame side would probably be damn near the same, the front side I’d just ask them. They may not give you a huge direct path or roll out the red carpet for you, but it’s worth a shot.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
@shawn pretty sure he put jk axles in his tj
Click to expand...

Front mounts are basically the same. Track bar mount is different, but that's fine, since you might have to rework it to match your steering, anyway. The rear is more involved. IIRC, nothing is in the same place. I don't have a JK rear here to check, though.
 
Depending on what you are paying for them you may just want to start with different axles. A lot of the cost in the UD60's is for all the ABS sensors and what they do to the hubs and mounts to make all that stuff work with a JK. Since your LJ doesn't have all that stuff it might be better to start with a different set of axles that have better aftermarket support and cheaper parts. Also consider they are 69" WMS to WMS and you can't run a large positive offset because of the steering to try and narrow them up. That's a really wide axle for a LJ.

Another thing to consider is with only 37's you might be better with a set of factory JK rubi axles built up. The UD 60's are extremely heavy and probably overkill for an LJ on 37's. I know a few guys wheeling pretty dang hard with JK 44's under TJ's right now with 37's-40's.

If you have any specifics I'm building a JKU with a set of UD60's now and I have done a few others with these axles. They are good axles but unless you are getting a steal on them I think there might be better options out there. I've also done a few of the JK to TJ swaps. There are kits out to do this but I don't know of any to fit the UD60's.
 
I have a JKU I built with the UD60s. I'm considering putting stock axles back under the JKU and using them. So I already own them. The JKU just doesn't get much wheeling time anymore so that's why I'm considering it.
ABadJeeper said:
Depending on what you are paying for them you may just want to start with different axles. A lot of the cost in the UD60's is for all the ABS sensors and what they do to the hubs and mounts to make all that stuff work with a JK. Since your LJ doesn't have all that stuff it might be better to start with a different set of axles that have better aftermarket support and cheaper parts. Also consider they are 69" WMS to WMS and you can't run a large positive offset because of the steering to try and narrow them up. That's a really wide axle for a LJ.

Another thing to consider is with only 37's you might be better with a set of factory JK rubi axles built up. The UD 60's are extremely heavy and probably overkill for an LJ on 37's. I know a few guys wheeling pretty dang hard with JK 44's under TJ's right now with 37's-40's.

If you have any specifics I'm building a JKU with a set of UD60's now and I have done a few others with these axles. They are good axles but unless you are getting a steal on them I think there might be better options out there. I've also done a few of the JK to TJ swaps. There are kits out to do this but I don't know of any to fit the UD60's.
Click to expand...
 
Altonymous said:
I have a JKU I built with the UD60s. I'm considering putting stock axles back under the JKU and using them. So I already own them. The JKU just doesn't get much wheeling time anymore so that's why I'm considering it.
Click to expand...

Well in that case Run with it. Your original post made it seem like you were buying. You might be able to sell them for more and build something else for the LJ. I kinda wish that I used them in my JKU instead of build the KP60 and 14B. The UD60's are good axles but I think overkill for a LJ on 37's.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
@shawn pretty sure he put jk axles in his tj
Click to expand...

Front mounts are basically the same. Track bar mount is different, but that's fine, since you might have to rework it to match your steering, anyway. The rear is more involved. Pretty much everything has to be cut off and replaced.
 
shawn said:
Front mounts are basically the same. Track bar mount is different, but that's fine, since you might have to rework it to match your steering, anyway. The rear is more involved. Pretty much everything has to be cut off and replaced.
Click to expand...

Correct!

I built a set of Rubicon JKU 44s for an LJ. With that kit, you cut off all the lower links on the front, coil buckets, trackbar, etc. Upper links are in the same location.

Rear
Cut off everything. Their truss kit is keyed for everything. I just didn't like the crude material and quality on the Artec product. You could use a ford 8.8 to TJ swap kit too. Or just order the brackets and measure and weld to match.
 
ABadJeeper said:
The UD60's are good axles but I think overkill for a LJ on 37's.
Click to expand...

Agreed. Stock JK Rubi stuff should hold up to 37s, once you sleeve and gusset the housings. You might break an axle once in a while, but I doubt it, especially if you throw some cheap alloys in it.
 
shawn said:
Agreed. Stock JK Rubi stuff should hold up to 37s, once you sleeve and gusset the housings. You might break an axle once in a while, but I doubt it, especially if you throw some cheap alloys in it.
Click to expand...

Post that on Wayalife and prepare yourself for the fallout from the Dynatrac nut swingers.
It's a freaking riot over there.

Sleeves = The devil himself
 
Jody Treadway said:
Post that on Wayalife and prepare yourself for the fallout from the Dynatrac nut swingers.
Click to expand...

Did I tell you the story about the guy that was building a 4 door JK Rubicon for "camping"?

I got some good deals on lightly used parts from him.

Edit: totally forgot, there were two different guys, two different Jeeps. Same story.
 
95yjjeep said:
Correct!

I built a set of Rubicon JKU 44s for an LJ. With that kit, you cut off all the lower links on the front, coil buckets, trackbar, etc. Upper links are in the same location.

Rear
Cut off everything. Their truss kit is keyed for everything. I just didn't like the crude material and quality on the Artec product. You could use a ford 8.8 to TJ swap kit too. Or just order the brackets and measure and weld to match.
Click to expand...



First time I have ever heard someone call artec crude...in comparison to what? Artec parts have always seemed great to me, just $$$
 
Pennsylvaniaboy said:
First time I have ever heard someone call artec crude...in comparison to what? Artec parts have always seemed great to me, just $$$
Click to expand...

I think it's crude in comparison to TMR, Barnes or Motobilt for a similar price point item. I just wasn't impressed for what he paid for the kits for what you got. The weld gaps were large because they go too thick on the materials and every edge was sharp and needed trimming, grinding or modification to make it fit tight. I wasn't impressed.
 
95yjjeep said:
I think it's crude in comparison to TMR, Barnes or Motobilt for a similar price point item. I just wasn't impressed for what he paid for the kits for what you got. The weld gaps were large because they go too thick on the materials and every edge was sharp and needed trimming, grinding or modification to make it fit tight. I wasn't impressed.
Click to expand...

well yeh, I think barnes is probably the best bang for buck of any fab parts place, followed closely by ruffstuff and motobilt, then TMR....I do like artec's weld washers tho.
 
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