Spot-weld Cutter... Recommendations?

Caver Dave

Caver Dave

Just holdin' it down here in BFV
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Since Junior wiped out the DD, I'm in the market for a decent spot-weld cutter. Don't need a "$100 model", but don't want something crappy either.
Local jobbers have what looks to be the same cutter...pointed "pilot" with double ended HSS cutter (can be flipped for renewed cutting teeth).

Whose have you used?
What do you like about it?
What don't you like about it?
How did it hold up? (IOW, is cutting 2 welds gonna smoke both sides of the HSS cutter... and I'll be looking for a carbide/cobalt equipped model to cut the 5 dozen welds I have)
 
I used a cheap HSS cutter from NAPA to remove the spot welds in the floor of my '66 mustang for replacement, a little lube and a slow rpm drill is your best friend. They hold up decently if kept relatively cool. If the panel you are replacing is the bottom panel in the joint you can just drill it out with a regular bit.
 
Thanks for the info Dave!

The spots I need to pop are holding the rad. core support to each side of the inner fender on a '97 Toy Camry. I've read that the depending on the equipment used to make the spot-welds on some "newer" vehicles, it can cause a super "work hardening"... making the spots stoopid hard & a PITA to cut. Just no idea *which* vehicles that was on... :rolleyes:

What did you use for lube? Motor oil or heavier? Magic-Tap/other fluid?
 
Mike, those look to be the exact same design of the stuff available at McMaster/Grainger/Pink parts houses locally...

Not sure if them offering replacement cutters is a bonus or "better buy extras cause they won't last" thing! :D
 
Sorry to take so long to answer, but I normally use a light machine oil of any sort. PB, WD40, have used motor oil, just make sure to clean the ever lovin piss out of it before welding/painting etc. And like I mentioned, if you're replacing the core support, and the side aprons are on top of the core where the weld is being cut you can just drill it with a regular bit since you are replacing the bottom piece altogether. Drill bits are MUCH faster than spot weld cutters.
 
DemonDave said:
And like I mentioned, if you're replacing the core support, and the side aprons are on top of the core where the weld is being cut you can just drill it with a regular bit since you are replacing the bottom piece altogether
Click to expand...

The core support appears to attach inboard of each sides "inner fender"/apron (from just below the hoodline down to where the bumper bracketry attaches to the unibody) and a couple spot below that line.

If the replacement has holes for welding in the same locations as the exist spots, I'll likely use the spot cutter. If there are NO provisions for welding (= me drilling holes to weld it to the aprons), I'll likely just use a drill bit through both sides. (I'm completely clueless if there are provisions for welding?)
 
In many cases there isn't, at least on the panels I've sold/installed in the past.
 
was an autobody tech for 4 years and used many. the drill i had was a matco, but it was obvious soon that the the drill bit makes the difference. i would not use the type that has a multiple teeth ring with push type center pin. i would suggest the one piece dual cutting edge carbide HSS bit. titanium coated are a plus. use lube and slow to medium rpm. also when replacing panels take the time to center punch each spot weld. also take into consideration what side is going to be the easiest to reweld. good luck.
 
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