Spring under axle Dana 60

Van-go

Van-go

Not an old man
Joined
Dec 11, 2014
Location
Greensboro
Done some searching and can’t find too much info on this.
Looking for info on doing a SUA on a 78/79 ford 60. Under a YJ.

anyone have any info on it?
 
Van-go said:
I’m sure it’s a terrible idea. I’m just curious.
I love this build from @drkelly but it’s more work than I want to get into. I want it to be low and wide.
Just another YJ build
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Outboarding is another way to go about it. There's only so flat you can go if the springs are between the axle and the frame, but if they're outside of it, you have tons more room. I could've went way lower on mine, I just didn't want to open the can of worms that is pitman arm clearance.
 
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That's spring under with a 78/79 Ford 60. It's a setup from Chad at Speed House. For reference, it's sitting next to a leveled truck just like it.
 
XJsavage said:
Outboarding is another way to go about it. There's only so flat you can go if the springs are between the axle and the frame, but if they're outside of it, you have tons more room. I could've went way lower on mine, I just didn't want to open the can of worms that is pitman arm clearance.
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Yeah, I figured you could outboard. Just was trying to see if I could do it without having to outboard.
And I would be doing full hydro so no clearance issue
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
I think his main issue was steering clearance with the axle so close to the frame.
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Makes sense. With the spring under and running a double sheer set up I should be able to move the tie rod up or down wherever I want between the high steer arm and stock tie rod location.
 
Van-go said:
Makes sense. With the spring under and running a double sheer set up I should be able to move the tie rod up or down wherever I want between the high steer arm and stock tie rod location.
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I would attempt spring under, even if that means I had to run a lift spring. If you want to get low, you will have to notch the frame over the axle. At some point the radiator/engine become the issue though.

You could get similar results by channeling the body. Basically changing a wrangler/CJ into the body styling of a commando/jeepster. If you look at a CJ/YJ, there is typically a few inches below the door/seat that is empty room. Cutting that section out of the body would lower the seat/roof height almost the same amount as going SUA. Engine/hood/tunnel clearance could be an issue.
 
I'd be curious to see how full hydro would fit. Single ended ram behind the axle with one of those double ended high steer arms. May run into frame clearance issues though.
 
Chris_Keziah said:
I'd be curious to see how full hydro would fit. Single ended ram behind the axle with one of those double ended high steer arms. May run into frame clearance issues though.
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paradisePWoffrd said:
I would attempt spring under, even if that means I had to run a lift spring. If you want to get low, you will have to notch the frame over the axle. At some point the radiator/engine become the issue though.

You could get similar results by channeling the body. Basically changing a wrangler/CJ into the body styling of a commando/jeepster. If you look at a CJ/YJ, there is typically a few inches below the door/seat that is empty room. Cutting that section out of the body would lower the seat/roof height almost the same amount as going SUA. Engine/hood/tunnel clearance could be an issue.
Click to expand...

Even with stock springs I think I could get like 4 inches of up travel.
I’ve got a brand new 1inch body lift laying around to help clearance the radiator. Lift the motor up 2 inches and cut whatever in the floor I need to for a flat belly.
May need to dove the rear to clear tires though...
I’m just dreaming right now. We will see.
 
Van-go said:
Even with stock springs I think I could get like 4 inches of up travel.
I’ve got a brand new 1inch body lift laying around to help clearance the radiator. Lift the motor up 2 inches and cut whatever in the floor I need to for a flat belly.
May need to dove the rear to clear tires though...
I’m just dreaming right now. We will see.
Click to expand...

I assume you are stretching the front also? If so, you could push the bottom of the rad forward a little to get a touch more clearance.

This was SUA with d44s on 38s, and toyota rears. It needed more front spring, but was stupid low. I know that d60 would have caused more issues, but just for reference.

full
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
I assume you are stretching the front also? If so, you could push the bottom of the rad forward a little to get a touch more clearance.

This was SUA with d44s on 38s, and toyota rears. It needed more front spring, but was stupid low. I know that d60 would have caused more issues, but just for reference.

full
Click to expand...
Image not working. I don’t really want to stretch it much at all up front.
 
Van-go said:
Image not working. I don’t really want to stretch it much at all up front.
Click to expand...

Not sure why. It is hosted on this site.

I would stretch it a little, so that the axle can live between the engine and rad. That should help with clearance.
 
Van-go said:
I’m sure it’s a terrible idea. I’m just curious.
I love this build from @drkelly but it’s more work than I want to get into. I want it to be low and wide.
Just another YJ build
Click to expand...

You could just put the tie rod 1/4"-1/2" below the leaf springs, and you wouldn't have to notch the frame like I am doing. Full hydro would make it MUCH easier too. I would keep it spring over, and just raise the spring hangers and shackles up to 'lower' it. Outboarding the springs all the way to the outside of the frame might decrease your turning radius.
 
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