Spun axle tube, now what?

sqrl$$

sqrl$$

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2005
Location
Lexington
I have a 14bolt rear in my Dakota. I spun an axle tube this past weekend in Harlan. It sheared the plug welds. Question is, try to spin the tube back and re-plug weld and weld around tubes, or just scrap housing and put my goodies into a different one?
 
New housing...
 
14 bolt housings are dime a dozen....I'd probably get a different one and do a full circumference weld before I assembled it. Then again, it's mainly an offroad rig right? Depends on how much of a hassle it'd be.
 
I'd rotate it back, and then weld around it, see how it works. Seems like a lot less work than pulling everything out and swapping into a new axle, resetting gears, etc.
 
jeepinmatt said:
I'd rotate it back, and then weld around it, see how it works. Seems like a lot less work than pulling everything out and swapping into a new axle, resetting gears, etc.
Click to expand...

that, and keep my eyes open for a new housing...
 
Well all you'd have to adjust is the backlash and mesh on a 14 bolt. The pinion comes out in the support as one piece. Wouldn't be too much of a pain.
 
new housing & weld it....
 
Newb question, does this happen often? I assuming it would be a bad idea to weld a 14b while its out?


Sent from my smart box using Tapatalk
 
I'd weld the tubes while it was out. I've never had any problems with mine being powered by a stout Cummins, but I'm undoubtedly not as hard on mine as he is with his. Although, I have done a few sled pulls with it.
 
Well I have seen it on D60 fronts with 3-link which is why I welded around the tubes on mine, but I have never seen it on a leaf sprung 14 bolt. Guess anything is possible with enough of the skinny pedal. I have an extra empty 14 bolt housing here in the shop, probably just use it and not worry about the one I have spun.
 
I would get a new housing. Gears are easy to setup in a 14 bolt as was already mentioned.

I'd be very surpised if the cast center section doesn't have some cracks in it now where the tube goes in. If you spin it back into position, I bet the tube will be sort of loose and not a tight fit like it should be.

I'm going to guess you are leaf sprung with a single traction bar on one side? The tube with the traction bar attached to is the one that broke free from the housing. Am I right?

Here is a 14 bolt with a busted ring gear for $75:
http://www.nc4x4.com/forum/index.php?threads/84-chevy-k20-for-parts.126321/
 
it is leaf sprung, but I have traction bars on both sides. I bent 1 side and broke it loose from the frame which is what let it spin. I was kind of thinking the same thing about the housing.
 
yea, thats what I'm planning. Should have 4-linked a couple yrs ago, but I was being stubborn about keeping the bed and rear frame.
 
I would clean up the tube with a pad and sidegrinder, 'a flexpad' and align it back up if that is possible (if no, forget it of course) and haul butt to a welder friend or if you have a welder. Muffler guys are always good for these kind of little welding dealies, and usually cheap. Of course you'd want to hit the other side too. I don't think the straightline would change any as mentioned above.. I mean it's possible, but hopefully doubtful. Again, a parallel check would be in order first.
 
Sorry, I havent updated. After examining housibg better, it is screwed. It has cracks around the collar and plug weld. I already have a new axle sitting here in the shop that Im going to put my gears, locker and disc brakes in. Im welding the tubes this time and 4 linking. Hope to be back together by the first of the year for the Flats.
 
Sweeeet! Take pics :D
 
That's what I would do! :)

I saw him in action, lots of load on that axle with a doubled t-case, healthy pedal, and looong truck!

JT.
 
Back
Top