Stereo Installers? Anyone?

uzj100

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2005
Location
Raleigh
Anyone out there install stereos for a living. I am looking at Eclipse AVN 2454 double din for my truck and would like to have someone I know install it. I will more than likely order the unit off of ebay/web because of a much less expensive price. Unless someone can get me discount somewhere locally.

Also, I will need the back up camera installed and I want the dvd to work even if the vehcile is in motion.

Thanks again,

Andrew
 
What year is your burb? I'm assuming that's the truck you are talking about.
 
Need to update my profile. 99 Land Cruiser. It is not here yet and did not want jinx the transaction.

A
 
Just a note. If you get it off e bay, be sure it comes with the instructions and operating manual. Those things can be a bitch to figure out how to use without 'em.
 
You can do it yourself. Definately buy a harness though instead of chopping up your factory one. They only cost $10 and you can get them at Wal-Mart, Best Buy and Circuit City. Get a bag of heat-shrink wire insulation too...don't use electrical tape.
 
pacodiablo said:
You can do it yourself. Definately buy a harness though instead of chopping up your factory one. They only cost $10 and you can get them at Wal-Mart, Best Buy and Circuit City. Get a bag of heat-shrink wire insulation too...don't use electrical tape.
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I second this, get an install kit for your vehicle and do it yourself, really easy.
You can get a kit that has brackets and wiring harness for the install.
And solder/heat-shrink connections, will save you a lot of headaches.
If you have any questions during the process I'll be glad to help all I can.
I have been installing systems since um......1982.....ouch, telling my age.
 
I just have to ask why heat shrink connectors. I have done tons of stero stuff and have never used it. I just use plain butt connectors and be sure I get my crimps good and have never had a problem. At work though everything I install no matter what it is from electronics to electrical to even the harness plug in for trailer lights I use heat shrink due to keeping the salt corrosion out. But being its not going in a boat I just have to ask why spend the extra change for heat shrink connectors
 
An assorted bag of heat shrink insulation is only $2 or $3 at Radio Shack, and if you use the right size it is never coming off on its own. IMO that's a small price to pay to know that the wires won't come loose and create a short.
 
Just a note, when I installed the stereo in my 94 Landcruiser using the harness kit, the stereo wouldn't work due to the stock amp. Had to bypass the stock amplifier before it would make any sound at all. Might not be an issue with a 99, but thought I'd let you know because it stumped me and later stumped the guys at the stereo shop for several hours
 
pacodiablo said:
An assorted bag of heat shrink insulation is only $2 or $3 at Radio Shack, and if you use the right size it is never coming off on its own. IMO that's a small price to pay to know that the wires won't come loose and create a short.
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Tells ya how much I shop at Radio shack. I buy my connectors elsewhere
 
cj777 said:
Just a note, when I installed the stereo in my 94 Landcruiser using the harness kit, the stereo wouldn't work due to the stock amp. Had to bypass the stock amplifier before it would make any sound at all. Might not be an issue with a 99, but thought I'd let you know because it stumped me and later stumped the guys at the stereo shop for several hours
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I had the same problem with my BMW, but then I found out I used the wrong blue wire for remote turn on for the amp. Just a thought.
 
Josh C said:
I just have to ask why heat shrink connectors. I have done tons of stero stuff and have never used it. I just use plain butt connectors and be sure I get my crimps good and have never had a problem. At work though everything I install no matter what it is from electronics to electrical to even the harness plug in for trailer lights I use heat shrink due to keeping the salt corrosion out. But being its not going in a boat I just have to ask why spend the extra change for heat shrink connectors
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I hate working behind people that use crimp connectors(disconnectors we call them). When you crimp the wire you make it weaker, and add weight, the vibration in cars and the extra weight make the wires break. But finding it isn't always easy, so just cut them all out and solder/heatshrink the wires almost always fixes the problem.

As an electronics repair shop, we do these things day in day out. The first thing on a repair is REMOVE the crimp connectors if any. They hold moisture, cause stress on the wiring, and are very unreliable. On repairs that require crimp connections on the ends of the wires, we crimp them, solder them, then heat shrink them.

Just my $.02 cent, from 20 plus years experience.
 
Ok now Im curious. You said regular connectors add weight and make wires weaker. Don't you have to crimp your heat shrink connectors before your heat them or are you just using heat shrink tubing. Besides I didn't realize there was much weight difference between a regular plastic connector and a heat shrink one. It would appear to me that soldering/ heat shrink together would add more weight than a standard connector. Not really trying to argue with ya just trying to figure out how a standard connector with a good crimp is not enough for a simple set of wires in a car stereo due to weight and stuff
 
Josh C said:
Ok now Im curious. You said regular connectors add weight and make wires weaker. Don't you have to crimp your heat shrink connectors before your heat them or are you just using heat shrink tubing. Besides I didn't realize there was much weight difference between a regular plastic connector and a heat shrink one. It would appear to me that soldering/ heat shrink together would add more weight than a standard connector. Not really trying to argue with ya just trying to figure out how a standard connector with a good crimp is not enough for a simple set of wires in a car stereo due to weight and stuff
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you actually wouldnt use connectors at all when soldering/heat shrinking...just solder the two wires to each other then shrink the tubing over the exposed area....much cleaner and reliable install for sure...I stopped using crimps a while ago too.
 
You can install it yourself really easy. I would recommend a Metra Harness, I cant remember the part number right now but they make one that has RCA inputs for your OEM amp. All you have to do is wire the power in and hook up rca cables. Also I dont know much about the Eclipse unit but I do install and have installed and used plenty of the new Pioneer AVIC-D1 double din and I highly recomend this piece. It is very easy to use and to install. You have plenty of options such as tv tuner, dvd, xm, backup cam, and ipod. I would def. recommend not to buy off of ebay, the units on there usually dont have fact. warranty and service usually sucks. I would check with your local custom shops. Check around and see who has a good reputation and go frome there. I would stray away from Best Buy or Circ City, most installers at these places have no kind of training what so ever. Hope this helps. If you need any more info feel free to PM me and I can help you the best I can.
Oh yeah I work at a cust shop in Mt. Airy. I recently had an installation featured in Road+Track Road Gear Mag. Done a pretty cool install with an xbox in a 350Z.
 
Josh C said:
Ok now Im curious. You said regular connectors add weight and make wires weaker. Don't you have to crimp your heat shrink connectors before your heat them or are you just using heat shrink tubing. Besides I didn't realize there was much weight difference between a regular plastic connector and a heat shrink one. It would appear to me that soldering/ heat shrink together would add more weight than a standard connector. Not really trying to argue with ya just trying to figure out how a standard connector with a good crimp is not enough for a simple set of wires in a car stereo due to weight and stuff
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They make the wires weaker because you are crushing the wire when you crimp it. The metal in the crimp is heavier than the wire itself so you are also creating a flex point. Between the extra weight, the crimp, and the extra flex they are much more likely to break. I have also seen many crimps too loose and fall apart.
With solder and heat shrink tubing there is no crimp to weaken the wire and the tubing weighs almost nothing. Very clean, very reliable.
Just saves headaches down the road.
 
The Beast said:
They make the wires weaker because you are crushing the wire when you crimp it. The metal in the crimp is heavier than the wire itself so you are also creating a flex point. Between the extra weight, the crimp, and the extra flex they are much more likely to break. I have also seen many crimps too loose and fall apart.
With solder and heat shrink tubing there is no crimp to weaken the wire and the tubing weighs almost nothing. Very clean, very reliable.
Just saves headaches down the road.
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yes and no. The area you solder becomes very stiff and inflexable, creating a stress point at the end of the solder area. Not a big deal for a normal vehicle, but in high vibration environments, a quality crimp connector with heat shrink over it is usually specified. (Helicopter wiring and the like)

90% of the time, the quality of the connector and the tools being used make 5x the difference. I just spent over $100 on nothing but connectors and some wire... coulda got the same amount of stuff from Home Depot for a fraction of that, but it's worth it to get the good stuff. The crimp tool I use is also quite pricy.

I've done connections both ways, soldering just takes to long, and the benefits aren't there. 5 years ago, I would have agreed 100% that solder was the only way to go, but after using the right materials and tools, it's not.

YMMV.
 
Soldering and taping the wires are the way to go. Get yourself a handheld butane torch and some .8 solder. You can get the torch from autozone or from a snapon dealer, get the solder from any hardware store and get some super33 elec. tape from 3m. Crimping sucks.
 
Rich said:
yes and no. The area you solder becomes very stiff and inflexable, creating a stress point at the end of the solder area. Not a big deal for a normal vehicle, but in high vibration environments, a quality crimp connector with heat shrink over it is usually specified. (Helicopter wiring and the like)

90% of the time, the quality of the connector and the tools being used make 5x the difference. I just spent over $100 on nothing but connectors and some wire... coulda got the same amount of stuff from Home Depot for a fraction of that, but it's worth it to get the good stuff. The crimp tool I use is also quite pricy.

I've done connections both ways, soldering just takes to long, and the benefits aren't there. 5 years ago, I would have agreed 100% that solder was the only way to go, but after using the right materials and tools, it's not.

YMMV.
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Yes, but I don't know ANYONE with the $250 crimp tools it takes to make the correct crimp or that switches dies for each wire size.
But in aircraft applications, they do.


Good grief, I do this crap for a living, you guys would argue with a stick.
 
The Beast said:
Yes, but I don't know ANYONE with the $250 crimp tools it takes to make the correct crimp.
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Hi, my name is Rich. Nice to meet ya. ;) Though i don't change the dies.. the one that's in it covers 22-18, 16-14, and 12-10 insulated connectors.

One of the other major influencers towards me going back to crimps is/was a retired Motorola field engineer, who worked in mobile communications for 20-30 years or so... Still does, for a different company.

But, like anything, it's just my opinion, formed from listening to others, and personal experience.

I remember when we were filling 1/0 gauge ring terminals with solder because it was supposed to be "the best way", but you won't find that anymore, everyone is using the set-screw terminals...
 
Rich said:
Hi, my name is Rich. Nice to meet ya. ;) Though i don't change the dies.. the one that's in it covers 22-18, 16-14, and 12-10 insulated connectors.

One of the other major influencers towards me going back to crimps is/was a retired Motorola field engineer, who worked in mobile communications for 20-30 years or so... Still does, for a different company.

But, like anything, it's just my opinion, formed from listening to others, and personal experience.

I remember when we were filling 1/0 gauge ring terminals with solder because it was supposed to be "the best way", but you won't find that anymore, everyone is using the set-screw terminals...
Click to expand...


Cost effective. :wtf:

Epeen overload. :gay:
 
Took it out myself and installed newly repaired factory deck in about 10 minutes.

uzj100

ps - Alpine cda9825 for sale.
 
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