Strokin' Betsy

In the process of getting ready to re-index the distributor- I removed the spark plugs. Here they are in order. Cylinder 2 looks brand new. The others have some black on them (for the few seconds that the jeep has run). What does this mean for cylinder 2??

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Great news- It runs! I cut off the ear of the distributor and turned it a little. No error codes!

I ran it for 25 minutes. Varying the RPM between 2000 and 3000 to break in the cam.

Temperature got up to 220 as expected. The AFR was right around 14.7- just changed a little when I was changing RPMs.

Several things-
The oil pressure started off around 40 psi. By the end of the run it was around 22 psi when I was running 2200. Is this normal? I assume after running for that long/hard the oil is like water. I am running Joe Gibbs break-in oil.

When I was varying the RPMs and slowly backing off to 2000 RPM it wanted to drop even more and I had to give it more gas to get back up to 2100. I never really could get it to run right at 2000.


Now I need to install the inner valve springs (dual rate springs). Install Ford Injectors (was running stockers on the breakin). Change oil filter.
 
No sweat on the oil pressure. Stock 4.0s run lower than that @ hot idle brand new.
Nice work man!
If you have any specific questions, feel free to give me a call anytime.
 
Jeep is running good. Just taking it easy driving around town. Keeping it under 3000 RPM.

Oil pressure dropped while driving (dropped to zero at a stop light twice). I think most of the problem was that the oil pickup was slammed up against the bottom of the oil pan. Going through the trouble of dropping the oil pan with the engine in the vehicle is not fun. So I installed a High Pressure pump at the same time to make certain I did not have to do it again. Oil pressure is now 40-50 when driving and 10-20 at idle.

I had the error code, P0202, Injector 2 malfunction again. I tracked it down to the electrical connector for the fuel injector on cylinder 2. I could change the way the engine ran by moving the wires going into the connector- not good. I installed a new connector and haven't had an issue since.

The engine temperature got a little warm the other day. The engine will run a little warmer since things are tight and still breaking in. I am going to remove the inner fenders and use a hole saw to add some holes to allow the engine to vent some of that heat. Last year in the hot summer the jeep ran warm so I figure this has been needed for a while.
 
How much are you into it for?
 
That's not bad at all.

Where did you get the head?
 
I got the cylinder head from eBay. Here are the details- http://www.ebay.com/itm/28101672411...iewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr

I got it on sale for $450. With the camshaft (amount of lift) I am running I had to get new valve springs. The cost for new springs, retainers and locks was going to be around $350 the last I remember. Plus, I would have had the deck of the cylinder head machined. So, I figured it was a better move to get a new head with larger valves for not much more money.

After the fact I found out that the seller is Titan Engines. They don't have the best reputation. The cylinder head, valves, springs, machine job, etc seem like a quality piece. I guess time will tell...

I had the deck of the block shaved ~0.020". That would cause a need to change the pushrod length. (Plus, the new head probably changed the measurements.) I installed some rocker arm shims instead of changing the length of the pushrods. It seems like my rocker-to-valve-stem contact is correct. However, I am not sure if I have the correct preload. I definitely am not sure if I have that setup perfect. Really need someone that knows what they are doing to check it for me.
 
Tonight installed the Air/Fuel Ratio gauge in a single pod. It is the gauge on the right- it has a bad glare in the picture. (Trans temp is on the left.)
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I replaced my 4.0L stickers with 4.6L stickers. The font is close to original. I looked everywhere for someone that makes them for TJs. All I could find were the "4.6L High Output" stickers that go on the back of the YJs. The ones I am using I think are for a V8 4.6L Mustang.

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ScottR said:
I had the deck of the block shaved ~0.020". That would cause a need to change the pushrod length. (Plus, the new head probably changed the measurements.) I installed some rocker arm shims instead of changing the length of the pushrods. It seems like my rocker-to-valve-stem contact is correct. However, I am not sure if I have the correct preload. I definitely am not sure if I have that setup perfect. Really need someone that knows what they are doing to check it for me.
Click to expand...

I recently finished a similar stroker build. In my case, the block was shaved 0.030". I measured with the Comp Cams pushrod tool and ended up using 9.594" length pushrods FWIW. IIRC, stock 258 pushrods are very close to this length.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/...rall-length-in/9-594-in/tip-attachment/welded
 
I put some holes in my inner fenders to vent some heat.
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I ordered some pushrods- 9.575". They came it with 180 degree ball ends. Stock pushrods have 210 degree ball ends. Looks like I need to send these back and try again...
 
Been a while since I posted. The engine is doing great. The throttle response and extra power are great. I installed a new all aluminum Champion radiator to help with the heat issue. I also was able to install the electric fan that wouldn't fit previously. Switching to a Cherokee water pump and pulley gave me an extra inch of room. Haven't had heat issues since.

Took it up to Rausch Creek last weekend with CNC and had a blast. No breakage but there is a faint vibration from the rear that I need to look into.

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