Stud VS Bolt

Lee

Lee

ECGS
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Louisburg NC
What makes using and actual stud in something like a high steer arm stronger than using a bolt? I understand about the cone washers, but cone washers aside why couldn't I use a bolt instead of a stud on a highsteer arm? I could still use the cone washers with the bolts. I know there is a reason the stud is better, I have heard many time it is better and thats why they use them in applications like highsteer arms or external Hub setups on toyotas. But never been given a reason why.
 
Hmmm don't know, and have never heard that. I have bolts in my high steer arms and zero problems. Stubs in some applications do help in the ease of instalation though.
 
There are many reasons. A stud will generally be stronger and cheaper than a bolt of equivalent size and strength due to its uniform shape. That means less local material variation, so less chance of stress risers due to the shape of the fastener or variations in its section.

It's also handy as an assembly dowel, but that comes with strength benefits as well. If the "inner" threads are threaded fully into the assembly (like a Toy hub or high steer arm), you're left with a tight-tolerance dowel joint. Not quite interference-fit, but much tighter than it could be with a bolted connection.
 
saf-t scissors said:
There are many reasons. A stud will generally be stronger and cheaper than a bolt of equivalent size and strength due to its uniform shape. That means less local material variation, so less chance of stress risers due to the shape of the fastener or variations in its section.

It's also handy as an assembly dowel, but that comes with strength benefits as well. If the "inner" threads are threaded fully into the assembly (like a Toy hub or high steer arm), you're left with a tight-tolerance dowel joint. Not quite interference-fit, but much tighter than it could be with a bolted connection.
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None of that really answers my question, because everthing except for the dowel part (which is not that important when you use the cone washer) I disagree with, becuase it can all be accomplished with a quality grade 8 bolt of the same size as a stud for cheaper, have you looked at the price places want for studs in highsteer kits?

The other reason I am asking this question is because my front dana 44 on my jeep has external hubs, which use nothing more than a bolt, I have been told it is a good idea to run studs with cone washers on them after reaming the hub for the cone washers to fit. But why not bolts with cone washers?
 
its got to do with appling consistant torque to the item (steering arm). This creates the clamping pressure that actually holds it on. Also with using the cone washers it allows for looser tolerances and still allowing the fastener to assist with alignment and convert any sheer forces to tension.

As far as bolt vs stud... When your using a bolt in a tight fit like that your torqe readings when you bolt it down is not a true reading of the fastener torque bit also friction in the arm hole etc.. And if you ream/drill the hole out your making the issue worse. Yes people do use bolts with sucess, and the factory does also on NON steering arms (king pin caps etc)

I'm no expert this is just what ive learned from reading the numerouse dicussions on PBB about all this. And it make complete sense to me...

And IMHO id rather spend the money on these safty items then some bling trick item... What are the studs ? 8$ each ? How many do you need? Whats a radio cost? put things in perspetive... Besides the fact, i think the 2 worst trail problems are steering and brakes.
 
Lee said:
except for the dowel part (which is not that important when you use the cone washer) I disagree with, becuase it can all be accomplished with a quality grade 8 bolt of the same size as a stud for cheaper, have you looked at the price places want for studs in highsteer kits?
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Ah, but have you priced a bolt of *comparable* strength? Those studs are a fawkton harder than regular old grade 8. Not coincidentally, that's why you can't use a regular hardened nut with them due to pulling the threads in the nut. I dunno what these specific studs are rated at, but most studs are in the 150-170ksi range, where a gr.8 is 130ksi.

The biggest thing that I forgot about with the cone washers is that they're split. Use them under a bolt head, and they dig into the shaft of the bolt and throw your torque readings off. You wind up not getting the bolt as tight as it should be (reducing the clamping force holding to two pieces together), because the washer adds friction.

It's just like those crappy little split "lock washer" things that do the same exact thing.

Use a nut on a stud with a cone washer, and the torque you see is the stud stretching.... the cone washer doesn't play into the equation because the stud doesn't spin (and dig in) like a bolt would.
 
Kevin Lawler said:
It's hard to explain but it's the same reason your lug nuts are tapered.
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sorry try again, I guess you didn't bother reading my whole question.
studs vs bolts has nothing to do with with lug nut taper, lug nut taper centers the wheel, same as the cone washers on the high steer arm , totaly different than what I was asking
 
Sorry, read it but didn't comprehend it the first time. I see what you are saying now but don't have an answer for you. Seems like it wouldn't matter.
 
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