superduty 60 assembly

marty79

marty79

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2013
Location
Newton, NC
hey guys, finally putting the superduty 60 together and was wondering what all needs to be put back on it for just a buggy axle.
does all the vacuum seals and stuff need to be put back on it and do I still have to run vacuum lines to it?
I've read that you don't need all that stuff but just making sure. thanks

(and this axle was torn down with box full of parts lol, so after putting the hub back on, there's a washer spacer, then the hexagon spacer, then another washer spacer then the snap ring on the outer stub shaft correct?
 
What year Super Duty axle?
 
and how important is the inner thrust washer...i think I'm missing mine according to diagrams..probably dumb question but didn't know if it's needed or not for just trail use??
 
I'm pretty sure you still need to install all the seals to keep stuff out of the back side of the hubs. The 99-04 axles can use regular Dana 60 hubs, but you don't need vacuum for them. Just use the manual locking feature. You can put pipe thread plugs in the threaded holes where the vacuum lines used to go.

You probably need all the pieces the make everything work properly.
 
so since these have vacuum and manual hubs, what's the purpose of the vacuum? if you can manually engage and disengage the hubs, what does the vacuum actually do. I know on the Expedition hubs how the vacuum hubs work but those are auto, not manual.
So I guess I'm gonna have to hunt down all the little pieces that appear to be missing...back to junkyard lol
 
The hub seals don't really have to go back in but they will keep mud and shit from getting too the spindle bearings. If you're staying with stock shafts for now I'd put them back in. If you're gonna run 35 spline I'd run spindle bushings and that'll act as a seal so the stock one won't really be needed.
 
Chris_Keziah said:
The hub seals don't really have to go back in but they will keep mud and shit from getting too the spindle bearings. If you're staying with stock shafts for now I'd put them back in. If you're gonna run 35 spline I'd run spindle bushings and that'll act as a seal so the stock one won't really be needed.
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it will remain stock for while, 3:73 gears on stock 4.0 won't be enough throttle to break em lol. will run em all back in.
thanks for the clarification guys. it's exiting getting the front put together and hopefully get it under the jeep this weekend
 
Chris_Keziah said:
The hub seals don't really have to go back in but they will keep mud and shit from getting too the spindle bearings.
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Hey just want to verify, since I broke that outer stub shaft, it mutilated that seal that sits behind the hub...according to your statement, that DOES NOT have anything to do with centering the outer stub shaft..it's only purpose is just a seal to keep junk out of the hub? thanks bud
 
marty79 said:
Hey just want to verify, since I broke that outer stub shaft, it mutilated that seal that sits behind the hub...according to your statement, that DOES NOT have anything to do with centering the outer stub shaft..it's only purpose is just a seal to keep junk out of the hub? thanks bud
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They're just a seal, spindle bearing locates the shaft.
 
Chris_Keziah said:
They're just a seal, spindle bearing locates the shaft.
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Ok thank you. My last question: the inner needle bearing is totally seized up...would this have caused outer axle to break or help it break lol..( trying to figure out what caused breakage) thank you very much for input
 
I see outer stub shafts are $162.00 for Chromoly ones, is this what you guys are using for beefed up outers?
I know 40 splines are the way to go but no way I'm doing that conversion lol (for that price I'd just go rockwells)
 
Thanks guys, it's all back together now.
I guess the needle bearing being seized up caused the breakage otherwise my gearing is more of a problem than I expected lol (too much skinny pedal for 6 months in double low climbing hills I probably shouldn't)
 
Jody Treadway said:
35 spline > 30 spline
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Oops I thought these had 35 outers.
Didn't break at splines, snapped clean right where shaft starts after ujoint backing plate
 
So are the 30 spline chromos enough upgrade or should go to 35 spline and chromos outers to prevent this
 
While it is possible for the needle bearing to cause a failure, it would have had to sieze the shaft to the bearing, to break it... I'd bet on the 30 spline shaft just not being strong enough.

Chromo will get you a little stronger, but 35 is stronger.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 
marty79 said:
so since these have vacuum and manual hubs, what's the purpose of the vacuum? if you can manually engage and disengage the hubs, what does the vacuum actually do. I know on the Expedition hubs how the vacuum hubs work but those are auto, not manual.
So I guess I'm gonna have to hunt down all the little pieces that appear to be missing...back to junkyard lol
Click to expand...
The vacuum part is what was activated by the electronic shift on the fly that the super duty trucks came with. You turned the electric switch, the vacuum automatically locked or unlocked the hubs from inside the truck. You can manually lock/unlock if the vacuum failed or if you did not have it hooked up (or swapped into a different vehicle).
 
Jody Treadway said:
35 spline will be much stronger than 30 spline chromo. But as stated earlier, you will need the hubs bored to fit the larger shafts.
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Wow I didn't know that, dang. Thanks for the info
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
it would have had to sieze the shaft to the bearing, to break it..
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Well my buddy watching said pass tire was spin, stop, spin, stop then I gave some throttle not knowing that and then heard a loud pop lol so might have done it. I had a spare but now I know what to upgrade to next time I break one
 
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