Superduty Unit Bearing/Wheel Hub Help

Lurch830

messin' with sasquatch
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Location
Wilton & Albemarle, NC
So my 2000 7.3l superduty has hit the big 115k miles and recently I've heard a clunking/popping noise coming from the front driver hub. Took the wheel off & it has some play if you wobble the brake rotor. I took the wheel hub off and it has some play it in. My question is how much play is allowed in the stub shaft to know if I have a bad unit bearing? It looks like it has around 0.25" at the end of the 6" stub shaft. Is that within spec or is it on its way out too?

TIA,
Brandon
 
You shouldn't be able to feel any play in the unit bearings. If they're the original ones then it's past due for new ones.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
I would test the unit bearing with the wheel on.. there is more leverage that way. Jack the front end up with the wheel off the ground. Grab the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and rock it. If there is any play replace the unit bearing. Also replace them in pairs if you can. Usually the other one is not far behind. I replaced some on a 01 f350 last week. They were tight but one made a scrubbing noise. The inner bearing was shot. Also there are 2 orings to replace when doing the hubs, a yellow and black. They are part of the vacuum hub system that locks in the hubs. Another condition is bad ball joints, they can make a popping noise.

Sent from my SM-T700 using Tapatalk
 
You shouldn't be able to feel any play in the unit bearings. If they're the original ones then it's past due for new ones.
That's what I was afraid of...anybody on here go for the DynaTrac Free Spin Kit?

I would test the unit bearing with the wheel on.. there is more leverage that way. Jack the front end up with the wheel off the ground. Grab the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and rock it. If there is any play replace the unit bearing. Also replace them in pairs if you can. Usually the other one is not far behind. I replaced some on a 01 f350 last week. They were tight but one made a scrubbing noise. The inner bearing was shot. Also there are 2 orings to replace when doing the hubs, a yellow and black. They are part of the vacuum hub system that locks in the hubs. Another condition is bad ball joints, they can make a popping noise.
It doesn't look like the ball joints have any play in them, but if I'm going through the trouble of replacing the hubs/unit bearings I'll throw in new ball joints while I'm at it. I'm not too worried about the vacuum hub system since I have a vacuum leak somewhere, I've just been using the manual hubs when I've needed 4WD. It just sucks this is happening while I'm in the process of moving to Raleigh so I don't have my tools handy or my garage set-up to work on stuff.
 
I had a dynatrac kit on my old 03 f250. I wheeled it on powerlines and local mudholes before i built my current rig and the 03 became the tow rig, plus it was my dd all along. Long story short, one night i sunk the diesel f250 to the frame in what was basically quick sand for a truck, it was firm enough to walk on, truck sank. With the front arb engaged, I broke both locking hubs, both outer stub shafts, and the broken stubs broke the wheel bearings. I had to dig for 7 hours to make a f250 hole so the wrecker could pull me out. It was going to cost $1650 for me to get all that stuff, plus the orings and such from ford with my wholesale price from work. Dynatrac was $1850 back then and the stubs and hubs were 35 spline upgrades. Since i was wheeling it I spent the $.

A month later my 78 f150 crawler showed up at the scrap yard a friend worked at, so I bought it and made it my wheeler, lowered the f250 and went from 38s to 35s for tow/dd duty.

Anyway, unless you have monster tires that eat unit bearings, or you beat it off road, just get quality unit bearings, even if they need to be replaced every 100k miles the truck will be worn slap out before you break even.

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
 
Not to mention the ease of replacement. Nobody can tell me that they LIKE packing wheel bearings and fishing around in a hub for the adjuster nut, lock plate, and outer lock nut!
 
Not to mention the ease of replacement. Nobody can tell me that they LIKE packing wheel bearings and fishing around in a hub for the adjuster nut, lock plate, and outer lock nut!
This x1,000,000

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
Not to mention the ease of replacement. Nobody can tell me that they LIKE packing wheel bearings and fishing around in a hub for the adjuster nut, lock plate, and outer lock nut!
I converted all my 60s to the 14 bolt setup. The thread pitch is the same between the 60, 70, and the 14 bolt. Instead of cussing trying to line the little pin up to the lock plate, now i preload the single nut, line up the nearest slot, insert a key, then a little spring clip to hold the key. Much easier to do and just takes a minute at the junkyard to grab a set from a chevy truck.

Packing bearings does suck, but a bearing packer jar makes that not so bad.

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
 
Not to mention the ease of replacement. Nobody can tell me that they LIKE packing wheel bearings and fishing around in a hub for the adjuster nut, lock plate, and outer lock nut!
I wouldn't say I "like" it, but I prefer it because it's a stronger and more durable design. The only reason unit bearings have taken over is because they are cheaper and easier for the UAW to assemble.
 
Well yeah...probably easier and cheaper to manufacture too. I gotta say though, on an 05+ Super Duty axle, I can't see why anyone would want to swap to a spindle & bearings setup. The unit bearings are pretty massive and you still have a free spinning setup with lockout hubs.
 
^^ I'm on this page.
 
Anybody know the best source for unit bearings? I've got prices all over the map.
I got Timken ones from partsgeek.com for $213/ea shipped a couple years ago. Looks like nowadays you can get them a little cheaper:
SP940200 - Google Search

Also, SRW and DRW have different part numbers. I believe DRW have coarse thread studs and SRW are fine thread. I ordered the SP940201 and they had coarse thread, but I just knocked em out and put my old studs in.
 
I picked mine up from AutoZone...Moog part number, but it came in a Timken box for ~$210 out the door.
 
I converted all my 60s to the 14 bolt setup. The thread pitch is the same between the 60, 70, and the 14 bolt. Instead of cussing trying to line the little pin up to the lock plate, now i preload the single nut, line up the nearest slot, insert a key, then a little spring clip to hold the key. Much easier to do and just takes a minute at the junkyard to grab a set from a chevy truck
Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk

I swapped to the sterlin hub nut. I love these things......

2000 FORD EXCURSION 6.8L V10 Spindle Nut | RockAuto
 
Back
Top