suspension guru's

userbmx1315

userbmx1315

builds more then wheels
Joined
Feb 8, 2008
Location
Bessemer City, NC
been surfing across pirate and google.

i read something about the triangulated front 4link is limited on flex. (wish i saved the link)
could someone tell me which is better 3 link with panard or a 4 link with tri-uppers?

this will be full hydro and maybe street driven.
i've done 2 3link systems on my old xj. now i'm going to a TJ and want this done RIGHT, and street worthy.
 
I'm not a guru by no means but I have messed with a few linked setups and I personally feel a 3 link has a limit due to the trac bar. The length of the trac bar seems to limit from what I've seen ... The 4 link setup will flex till it binds the items attached to the axle from what I've seen
 
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It's no more limiting in the front than the rear, unless there is some obstruction like the engine or frame. Either a 3 link or 4 link can be made to flex fantastically. Something to consider: The stock TJ/XJ 5 link front flexes great, and has more restriction and bind than a 3 or 4 link...
 
Flex doesn't mean crap if you can't use it. I used to be all about building ramp queens. If it couldn't lift 1 tire off the ground 5ft. I didn't want to let it leave my shop.

Technically speaking, if set up right no link susp. should bind flexing till the misalignment of the joints is used up provided you properly tighten the jam nuts. Any setup with 2 parallel links whether its uppers or lowers can only twist as much as the joints have misalignment. A dual triangulated 4 link will allow for the most twist.

With that being said if you plan to run full hydro from the get go, I'd run a dual tri 4 link. Mainly for strength but having the lowers triangulated will keep it from steering like a skateboard.




Sent from the MarsFab Off Road mobile response unit.
 
Thanks guys.

Instead of starting a new post.

Im wanting to build my tj just like and buggy/ rock crawler. 39.5-42s but i do want it streetable and really low. Dont wana cut the rear framd off either.

Is there any starting points to do this? I still gota swap my motor to. So thats more fab work 2.5 to 4.6 stroker.
I havent messed with the link calc yet cuz im no genius and i still dont know my wheel base or anything.
All i have is jeep, axles, welder and a small pocket. Haha. If i had the money to drop it off at a shop i would. But this is poorboy reality.
 
Get your drivetrain in there first, then build the suspenion around it, tucking the transmission up high isn't always the best thing to do.....I have a $1200 rear driveshaft in here due to that.
Take into account the oil pan up front and the driveshaft angle in the rear.
 
16 is a lot of shock but it'll be fine. A 2.0 would be fine for the rear but personally I wouldnt run a 2.0 in the front, id run a 2.5. Now people will argue that but I've found the 2.5's handle the front way better.
 
so either a 2.5 or a coilover, would be best?

the tj already had 4 link mounts on it. i might have to run the numbers to see what it would say. i kinda wanted to go with a skid and arm mounts from a company to speed up the process and have a skid.
 
if you are going to run it on the street, try not to use the air shocks, they will tend to heat up with extended use and fade out. You'll likely need sway bars with air shocks as well.


the 4 link will move up and down (with a little radial front to rear movement from the mounts on the frame). A 3 link will do that also but will also move left to right a little because the lateral support comes from the panhard. You can reduce the left to right movement by making the panhard as long as possible. Most of the time you won't notice it, but I've noticed it on my buggy at times as I have a 3 link in the front.

Looking back on it, if I had the room, I would have done a double triangulated 4 link up front to match the rear.
 
i have an anti-rock on the front. i'd like to run the air shocks on the rear, since they are brand new and unused hahaha.

after the motor is in, i'll be doing the suspension.

Stupid USPS has 2 packages of mine and they wont update me on them. hate when i dont know were my crap is.

the rear of the TJ is already set up but they had 7/8 heims.
 
yes a coilover would be much better and a 2.0 coilover with springs cost the same amount as a 2.5 air shock. 7/8 are fine for uppers but dont use them as lowers.
 
16" is a huge shock to put on a TJ. I actually can't even picture it unless you are running like 8" of lift. You mention "doing it right" in your first post and being street worthy. Air shocks shouldn't even be in the conversation, neither should 16" anything (in my unimportant opinion). The most well behaved rigs I have seen pulling muti-purpose duty were on 12" to 14" coilovers with a 3 link front and 4 link rear.

Also, full hydro is illegal on the street.... Unless a law has changed that I am not aware of.
 
I was looking at 14" c/o for the front. The only reason i was going to use the air shocks is cause they havent even been rode on.
 
using air shocks in lieu of coilovers, to drive on the street and "doin it right" is an oxymoron. Its possible but not the best solution. Sell the shocks and go with a good coilover from Alex. He has great prices on Fox products and can fit and tune them to whatever you need.

Looks like you are in Dallas, so Alex's shop is close enough you can work well together to get the shocks you need and he will tune them to make them ride and perform even better!
 
AJ, use some dang ORI's!
 
You pay for them and ill use the shit out of them. Got one set of sway a way coilovers now. Gota get motor in and then work on suspansion.
 
userbmx1315 said:
Thanks guys.

Instead of starting a new post.

Im wanting to build my tj just like and buggy/ rock crawler. 39.5-42s but i do want it streetable and really low. Dont wana cut the rear framd off either.

Is there any starting points to do this? I still gota swap my motor to. So thats more fab work 2.5 to 4.6 stroker.
I havent messed with the link calc yet cuz im no genius and i still dont know my wheel base or anything.
All i have is jeep, axles, welder and a small pocket. Haha. If i had the money to drop it off at a shop i would. But this is poorboy reality.
Click to expand...
cut the front frame to make a straighter front frame rail it will help ur steering set up and links same for rear i did a three link front and double tri four link rear and thats the only issues i wish i would have changed
 
thanks for the suggestion. but i dont feel comfortable cutting the frame. i've looked into it. but i'd rather not get into that mess. and it will put the project further out from completion. haha
 
REDLYNER said:
Also, full hydro is illegal on the street.... Unless a law has changed that I am not aware of.
Click to expand...
I dont think there is anything that says full hydro is illegal. Im no inspection expert, but I believe it is worded "Vehicle must have a safe/dependable steering system.
 
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