tamper-resistant bolts

RatLabGuy

RatLabGuy

You look like a monkey and smell like one too
Joined
May 18, 2005
Location
Churchville, MD
I'd like to get some (only need a few) tamper-resistant bolts (well, technically they are screws) for my winch and bumper.
This is just a matter of theft deterrance.
I know that vertually any fastener can be "beaten" but the idea is to make it hard enough that they will pass/give up on it while sitting in a parking lot etc.

Anybody have a good source? What's making it difficult is that (a) I only need a few, not 100+, and (b) I need 'em metric, and fairly large (ideally M10 and M12). Most places only have up to like an m6, fairly small.
 
I agree with Kimball... *IF* you want to insure it stays on *YOUR* truck, tack the nuts good.

If not, head over to McMaster-Carr and start hunting!
 
RatLabGuy said:
I'd like to get some (only need a few) tamper-resistant bolts (well, technically they are screws) for my winch and bumper.
This is just a matter of theft deterrance.
I know that vertually any fastener can be "beaten" but the idea is to make it hard enough that they will pass/give up on it while sitting in a parking lot etc.
Anybody have a good source? What's making it difficult is that (a) I only need a few, not 100+, and (b) I need 'em metric, and fairly large (ideally M10 and M12). Most places only have up to like an m6, fairly small.
Click to expand...


Call me at the store. depending on the size I can have snake eyes, secrety torx, and one ways. all stanless steel

If you are going to buy some I recommend snake eyes with lock tight. If you use a drill with a snake eye bit and it is hard to turn you will pop the bit. you have to have a one peice snake eye screwdriver

why not put it in with a regular phillips head and grind down the head? you will have to drill out the bolt but I doupt anyone eles will go through that trouble
 
NC_Mog said:
Miller or Lincoln will work with existing bolts/nuts.
Click to expand...
purpleTJchick said:
why not put it in with a regular phillips head and grind down the head? you will have to drill out the bolt but I doupt anyone eles will go through that trouble
Click to expand...

This is to replace one (or more) of the bolts attaching my winch to my newly made bumper, and also one (or more) of the bumper to the frame.

The problem is that inevitably the bumper will have to come off again at times, for God knows what repair. Between the tube bumper and winch together, it is simply too heavy for my 150 lb scrawny ass to feasibly lift/remove as a unit. I'm sure it could be done w/ a jack and misc tools, leverege etc but not worth it IMO. So they need to be seperable from one another as well as from the frame.
unfortunately this also means they need to be fairly large/strong bolts and in place very securely - so not sure the snake eyes will be sufficient.

And if you have the tools on hand to remove something like a Tri-wing or Torq-Set bolt, chances are you could also get past a welded nut.
 
RatLabGuy said:
This is to replace one (or more) of the bolts attaching my winch to my newly made bumper, and also one (or more) of the bumper to the frame.
The problem is that inevitably the bumper will have to come off again at times, for God knows what repair. Between the tube bumper and winch together, it is simply too heavy for my 150 lb scrawny ass to feasibly lift/remove as a unit. I'm sure it could be done w/ a jack and misc tools, leverege etc but not worth it IMO. So they need to be seperable from one another as well as from the frame.
Click to expand...


nah...just weld it all together...my front bumper, winch plate and grill hoop are all welded to the frame...and it's a PITA to get to the winch mounting bolts (hopefully bad enough the walk-by criminal leaves it alone...

Greg
 
RatLabGuy said:
And if you have the tools on hand to remove something like a Tri-wing or Torq-Set bolt, chances are you could also get past a welded nut.
Click to expand...

Not without making some noise first. If they're able to get past a welded nut...what makes you think a $10 nut/bolt will stop them?
 
Tacking them is really the best plan, you can always grind down the tack later when you need to remove, takes 5 minutes with a grinder. (5 minutes / grinder, that the thief wont do/use)

Another cheat is to use body filler to smooth out the hex bolt to round/where you cannot get a wrench on it. Looks funky/bolt and you can "chip" it off later etc.
 
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