Taurus Fan

upnover

upnover

Grumpy, decrepit Old Man
Moderator
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Morganton NC
OK, I have a 85 Cj with a 360. Swapping in a Taurus fan in place of the mechanical. I mounted it on my radiator, and it will go past my waterpump pulley. My Question, has anyone did this? with same components, and how?
 
I did some research on it, before deciding to focus on other issues. While I don't know the answer to your question, people will be needing to know what size radiator.

Also, if you notice, Mike and Lee have cut their grill up to fit YJ parts. You could push the radiator forwards. Also, you need to be more clear on how it doesn't fit. If it doesn't install, you might have to pull the pulley and reinstall it once the fan is in. Some of the 304 guys I researched had this issue (I'll hunt links down later).

Finally, if you converted this from an I-6 and you made the motor mounts and tranny mounts custom, then you're not going to find someone in exactly the same situation as you are. You're definitely looking at doing something custom. I'd suspect you'll be cutting the radiator mounts within the grill and moving the radiator forwards. I'm really interested in seeing how Lee did this without losing the hood release, I'm also wondering if Mike did the same thing.

-- OTOH You could move the drivetrain back to get more room. :D
J
 
hobie said:
I'm really interested in seeing how Lee did this without losing the hood release, I'm also wondering if Mike did the same thing.

J
Click to expand...

stock yj radiator mounted inside/flush with the backside of the CJ grill, Its still a tight fit as you can see, But I have a wrangler with a CJ frontend, the CJ frontend is about 2" shorter and the the grill is alot deeper also, I am gonna be removing the stock fan and run electric fans eventually
730353_53_full.jpg

730353_54_full.jpg
 
Yes did a V-8 swap from an I-6. Used V8 mounts from earlier CJ that had a V8. Motor of Fan not able to pass Water pump pulley. I don't think the pulley is the issue since it is very thin and only covering the end of the water pump. Stock 3 core radiator. Can't move drive trail back, valve covers would be in the firewall. Too dang much to do that anyway, just to fit in an electric fan. Maybe trimming the fan shroud to offset it is the answer?? Or a certain rotation??
 
I just installed one in my YJ 2 weeks ago. Here's what I did, I had the same clearance probs as you...

I had to gut my YJ grille and cut the top out in order to mount my YJ style radiator in the same fashion as a CJ rad is mounted. Mine rad now mounts behind the stock rad mounts towards the inside of the grille. I also clocked the fan so that I had the most WP clearance.

My fan is clocked to where the harness from the fan motor is on the top of the fan. This gave me the most cleance of any other position. I have about 1/2" of cleance this way.

How are wiring it up? I used the ST85 continuous duty solenoid from Napa. My fan ran about 6-7 hours for 3 days straight inHarlan last week, and teh solenoid never got hot, let alone gave me any problems...Just FYI.
 
fan

Why remove the mechanical fan, the electric will not move the same amount of air.
 
Several reasons. The engine is prone to flex in the mounts and bust them too, sending the fan into the Radiator. Had this happen to me several times already. So, I got a new Radiator and don't want it messed up. The Taurus fan moves a ton of air, so I don't think I will be going backwards. I can cut it off in depp water and not sling water and mud all over my engine. I can leave it on while engine is off, if it heats up, to cool quicker.
 
fan

I find that hard to believe. Has that be substantiated with cfm tests?
 
StudNuts said:
A taurus fan pushes about 2.5x what the stock mechanical fan moves.
Click to expand...

Do you have flow bench numbers to back that up?

If you figure that mechanical fans are blamed for 3-5hp losses, taking the low number, that's 2237 watts, or 155A at 14.4VDC.

There's something to be said for blade efficiency, but even on that note, you'll notice that most electrics use many small, low-pitch blades (less load) whereas a mechanical fan uses 5-7 wide, deeply pitched blades.

Taurus fans are a hell of a lot better than some little flex-a-lite or something, but they'll still never measure up to a quality mechanical fan for the shear volume of air that you can move.
 
I dunno about 2.5x more than a mechanical fan, but it's enough to keep a 300hp V8 cool in a cramped engine bay, in an OEM application (meaning 120* days).. (Lincoln Mark VIII) That's good enough for me and the majority of those here. My rad isn't as big as the Mark8's, but still..

I previously had a Black Magic fan, (which has the highest CFM of any aftermarket electric), now the Taurus. Taurus fan moves as much air on low speed as the Black magic did on it's single speed. The thing is nutty.

1.jpg
 
saf-t scissors said:
Do you have flow bench numbers to back that up?

If you figure that mechanical fans are blamed for 3-5hp losses, taking the low number, that's 2237 watts, or 155A at 14.4VDC.

There's something to be said for blade efficiency, but even on that note, you'll notice that most electrics use many small, low-pitch blades (less load) whereas a mechanical fan uses 5-7 wide, deeply pitched blades.

Taurus fans are a hell of a lot better than some little flex-a-lite or something, but they'll still never measure up to a quality mechanical fan for the shear volume of air that you can move.
Click to expand...


You're absolutely right, but you also have to remember that a typical mechanical clutch fan isn't pulling as much air when you're only at 1000 rpm as a taurus fan on high would be. And another big thing is the fact that most 4x4's no longer have a shroud--and if they do it's minimal. The taurus fan is actually pulling air through the rad core instead of making hot air swirl around under the hood.

As to the original thread, is it not possible to move the radiator forward anymore at all? I've see car guys get away with less than 3/4" pulley to fan motor clearance, so you don't need a whole lot.
:edit:Though if you're using a stock cj frame, who knows...it may be able to flex two or more inches to put that fan right into the engine. :flipoff2:
 
I guess if you can pull enough CFM you can make up for most any cooling problem you might actually have. Weather it be bad/plug radiator, too small radiator, no shroud, etc..

I chose to make a lager radiator fit vs band-aiding things to make an exspensive 'v8' jeep radiator work. I was also willing to cut/remove other items with functionality being more important than looks... I have a 1.5" spacer and over 2" of rad. clearance. all sitting on a long chevy water pump...

hobie - I still retain full use of the stock safty catch setup. (hood pins while look cool are a pain) I did cut back the sides of the grill, mainly to fit the rad. hoop, and i cut way to much in some spots during the fitment, but it works. :)

I think ive posted this before but here is another pic during that part of the build..
 

Attachments

  • radiator-mounting1.jpg
    radiator-mounting1.jpg
    82.1 KB · Views: 430
I think something like that is what I am gonna have to do. BTW thanks for bringing my original question back into light. Apreciate the pics.
Chip( not afraid to cut) Price
 
that chevy v-8 is sure a hell of alot shorter than by 4.0 i-6, My motor was a transplanted motor also (originaly a 4 banger) and I pushed it back as far as I could without hitting the firewall with the valvecover when I swapped it in. I do not have near the room you do Yager.
 
my rig still overheats with the black magic fan, im sure i need more airflow thru the big aluminum radiator, did the taurus fan fix your airflow issue, rich?
also do you even use the high setting at all?
 
Greg - I dunno.. the engine hasn't fired in months. BUT, I will say this - it certainly pulls more air. It covers more of the rad. Those 2 items alone will greatly increase the airflow through the radiator.

I'm not exactly sure how I'm going to wire it just yet... I'm thinking maybe low speed comes on with the ignition, with a shutoff switch for water crossings.. and use the thermostat switch (robbed from the black magic fan, as was the rubber gasket around the fan) to turn on the HIGH speed, but at a real high temperature, like 220 or so, as a "Time to cool the engine off NOW" thing.

I do know that when the high speed comes on, you need to shut off the power to the low speed circuit.. not a big deal, but worth mentioning.

I will have a red light on the dash that's on anytime the fan is shut off, so I don't forget it... NOT that I've ever done that... :D (The thermo switch set at 220* will also prevent me from doing damage)

I have 2 spare solenoids that were on my Ramsey winch, thinking about using them for the relays, I know they'll handle the current fo' sho'!
 
i have the big aluminum be cool v8 conversion radiator and the black magic fan with its own shroud and a gasket to the rad. i also tried a fan in front of the rad also to help things out, when im wheelin slow she gets real hot
(240+++), when im moving more air thru the rad it runs plenty cool enuff (160)

i dont have pics of the setup as my rig is just getting finished at crs
i am just brainstorming the few old problems that still remain for me when i pick her up. i am trying to get ready for the dayton run next month to pop her cherry!!!
 
Greg.. sounds like airflow is your problem, since at speed it cools off. The taurus fan will most likely help you quite a bit. Don't push any kind of pusher fan on the front though.

Be cool radiator? damn, that's more bling than a chrome plated rockcrusher 60.. :D
 
Back
Top