tempoary cutting area walls

RatLabGuy

You look like a monkey and smell like one too
Joined
May 18, 2005
Location
Churchville, MD
I want to cordon off a 10x10 corner of my basement to use for cutting etc. Its in a bigger open space w/ a lot of storage so I want to put up "walls" to keep the dust etc contained in the room. A lot like how sometimes shops have dedicated grinding areas.
No need to drywall or even framing really, aside from what;s needed to hold something to block it. Thinking 1 "wall" probably just a solid sheet of clear plastic, and the other a set of the PVC clear plastic strips for a door and another solid sheet.

Question - I'm thinking I'll make a basic 10' wood wall frame w/ the footer on the slab and studs every 2' just to staple platic to. But since I eventually plan to tear this out again - what's a good way to attach that bottom 2x4? Typical construction adheisive is a real pain to remove. It don't need to really support much in the way of weight or movement. Silicone? Cheap caulk?
Also is there a cheap way to get that stripping? The kits add up quick for more than a few feet.
 
Build legs off the wall at a 90 to support it's own...then you can move it around anywhere you want. That's a quick cheap solution
 
Build legs off the wall at a 90 to support it's own...then you can move it around anywhere you want. That's a quick cheap solution
good thought. probably same idea, I decided instead of putting the door in the corner to put it 2' in so that 1 wall is L shaped, then it will be supported at the top. That just leaves the other, but sicne it will only be 4' long and be anchered to teh cinder wall on one side as well as the top it should be fine.
 
 
This is the answer and if you need it to stay a while and don’t care so much about leaving some residue use zip tape
 
When we used to do this in pharma and food production plants, we would use 2x4s as a top and bottom plate anchored to the floor with tapcons every few feet, then it would give us something to attach the plastic to. For a door, we would have a zippered door. Quick a d easy and affordable and the holes in the concrete were small and easy enough to repair.
 
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wow this is super cool.
It's a bit pricy for the whole system, which I don't necessarily need the poles etc, kinda hard to justify that cost fo rsomething I'd only use once.
However the commercial 4x19 zip door is actually cheaper that a similar size strip of the PVC strip thingys, so I'll probably use that.
Sat I already built a basical wall from timber I has laying around, 32" on center, turns out just measuring closely and squeezed in the joists so they had to be pounded into place is plenty to keep the bottom plate from moving anywhere.
So in the end it'll be wood frame w/ plastic stapled, zipdoor, sounds like @rockcity but w/o actually nailing to the slab.
 
Put a bit of negative pressure on it, and doesn't need to be all that air-tight.

Still might set your house on fire, though.
 
wow this is super cool.
It's a bit pricy for the whole system, which I don't necessarily need the poles etc, kinda hard to justify that cost fo rsomething I'd only use once.
However the commercial 4x19 zip door is actually cheaper that a similar size strip of the PVC strip thingys, so I'll probably use that.
Sat I already built a basical wall from timber I has laying around, 32" on center, turns out just measuring closely and squeezed in the joists so they had to be pounded into place is plenty to keep the bottom plate from moving anywhere.
So in the end it'll be wood frame w/ plastic stapled, zipdoor, sounds like @rockcity but w/o actually nailing to the slab.

System is a little pricey, but you can get just the zippers at HD or Lowes for $20, tape on either side of the zipper, just slap it on your own poly, then cut your opening, 2xs tapconed to the concrete.
 
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