Testing Dryer/220 outlet?

[TeamSpatula]

Howdy...so when my wife and I moved in to her grandparents' old place, there was a maybe 20 year old electric dryer that worked fine...up until last week, when it stopped running. So we had an extra one that her parents had gotten from a neighbor, and swapped it in. Unfortunately it would run fine, but was only blowing cold air. Also, the timer never moved - so it would just run for hours. I figured it was just old and worn out also, so we dug my wife's old dryer from her apartment out of storage...son of a gun but it's doing the same thing - blowing cold air and the timer is not moving. Now this dryer was working fine 2 years ago before we put it in storage (that's why we saved it).
Soooooo I'm wondering, since the wiring is kinda old and funky around here, is it possible for 1 leg of the 220 outlet to have power but not the other? Does one 110 leg run the motor, and the oter run the timer and heating elements? The outlet is one of those BIG 220 ones - I have a crappy voltmeter, but the voltage seems to be jumping around somewhere around 120 on each leg...I've ordered new leads for my good Fluke meter, so when they get here, I will double check, but it should read 110-120 between each of the bottom 2 holes in the outlet and the top hole, right? Man I hate to buy a new dryer, but it also seems odd that 3 dryers including a previously known good one would behavelike that..
all advice appreciated...
thanks

 

[stevehayden]

220

110 from one side (usually straight blade ) to neutral ( round or L shaped blade ) and 220 from straight to straight. It usually take one leg for motor another for timer and both for heat. There are very few oddball manufacturers that don't follow that setup. Good luck

 

[doc]

Sounds like the neutral isn't hooked up in the cord/outlet (3-wire vs. 4 wires)......for the 120V control that the older dryers didn't use.

 

[marvilusone]

A fork stuck in the socket will normally tell you if it's working.

 

[TeamSpatula]

A fork stuck in the socket will normally tell you if it's working.

ok, so which side of the outlet do I stick the fork in? Should I make sure to stand in a puddle too?

no seriously, thanks...but the plot thickens - the dryer outlet is run from an ooooollllllddddd FUSE box, where each 110 leg has it's own 2-fuse holder. These are the round/barrel fuses, 35 amps, look like cardboard with metal ends. I've got continuity across the fuses, so that means they're good, right? Not much resistance across them, but again, this is with the crappy pocket voltmeter...
how can you tell if those fuses are good? I'm sure I can't just go down to the local store and buy those anymore...

 

[marvilusone]

Actually you can still buy those old fuses. I went through the same issues with my old house. Both Lowes and Home Depot carry them. Just because they are carring current doesn't mean they're good though. I've had them test good but still not work. If the funds are there I would strongly suggest upgrading to a breaker box, even if it is only for the dryer. I was the best single thing I did to my old house. The wiring was fine but the actual fuse box itself was so wore out it was creating alot of resistance and causing fuses to blow. Installed a new breaker box with all the same amperage breakers as the fuses were and never had a problem again. If that's not an option then I would just go buy new ones and a set of spares while you're there.

P.S. Sorry about the fork comment earlier. I had a rough day and needed a small laugh. I saw the thread title and it was the first thing that came to my mind.

 

[TeamSpatula]

Thanks for the tips - there are 2 fuses for each leg, so that's 4x35 = 140 amps? That seems waaayyy too high for just a dryer?
Funds are tight as always, but safety is a priority as is not having to use a clothesline.

So what size panel would be needed to run a dryer? I guess I could put the small overhead light and 2 outlets on there too, and the lead to the well house which has a pump, light, and outlet.
What kinda size would I be looking for?
And in the mean time, should I just replace those 4 fuses? Is it possible that only a small amount of current is making it through?
Thanks for the advice...and no worries about the fork comment - sometimes laughing helps make a stressful situation a little better...

 

[doc]

30A two pole breaker is the norm for regular dryers.......the size of the panel depends on a lot of variables. If you have a buddy who is an electrician, let him take a look @ it.

If you were closer, I'd stop by myself & give it a look.

D

 

[Caver Dave]

A fork stuck in the socket will normally tell you if it's working.

ok, so which side of the outlet do I stick the fork in? Should I make sure to stand in a puddle too?

Stop being a wuss and stick your tongue on it!

Like said, I've seen old fuses pass voltage, but not enough amperage to run the device. Swap them out before going any further! FWIW, they probably have them (for a premium) at the C-stores around your place.

You're not swapping the pigtail (cordset) back & forth between the dryers are you?