Mac5005
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Location
- Rocky Mount
On my dads @moldman05 buggy, he has a th400 to an atlas. His th400 has the short 1.4” stickout.
Currently has the atlas input retainer/clocking ring to the atlas to 400 adapter.
With the studs clocking the cas as flat as possible, the front output is still down 4-5”. All the other clocking holes drop the front down farther.
When mocking it up, to get the case flat, the bolts that secure the clocking ring/input retainer to the atlas housing need to be studs and go straight through to the t400 adapter.
Can’t run another clocking ring as we would lose a lot of spline engagement.
Any ideas?
My initial thought is to get studs that go straight through both pieces.
This would require tightening nuts between the adapter and clocking ring, and the nuts no taller than the counterbored area. The counterbore area is deep enough for the current socket head cap screws and flat washers. Then another set of nuts to hold the adapter to the clocking ring.
Or
Studs that go straight through clocking ring and adapter , and only one set of nuts holding it all together. I’m wary of this method as to remove the case, there would be nothing then holding the input retainer/clocking ring to the case housing.
Pics this afternoon.
Anyone worked through this issue with a proven solution?
Currently has the atlas input retainer/clocking ring to the atlas to 400 adapter.
With the studs clocking the cas as flat as possible, the front output is still down 4-5”. All the other clocking holes drop the front down farther.
When mocking it up, to get the case flat, the bolts that secure the clocking ring/input retainer to the atlas housing need to be studs and go straight through to the t400 adapter.
Can’t run another clocking ring as we would lose a lot of spline engagement.
Any ideas?
My initial thought is to get studs that go straight through both pieces.
This would require tightening nuts between the adapter and clocking ring, and the nuts no taller than the counterbored area. The counterbore area is deep enough for the current socket head cap screws and flat washers. Then another set of nuts to hold the adapter to the clocking ring.
Or
Studs that go straight through clocking ring and adapter , and only one set of nuts holding it all together. I’m wary of this method as to remove the case, there would be nothing then holding the input retainer/clocking ring to the case housing.
Pics this afternoon.
Anyone worked through this issue with a proven solution?