Thinking of building a camper Q's

MarsFab

MarsFab

Will work for money
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Location
Harrisburg, NC
So my S-10 is almost finished up and it isn't going to fit on my trailer, much less it and my toyota. With all the ECORS builds I've been working on, I really need to get to all the races plus have a place to stay and way to haul a 4 wheeler or one of my rigs. This got me thinking about building a hybrid trailer/camper. I wan't to build a deckover long enough to haul my Toyota and my s-10 if I need them both, or when I go to the races haul one rig and have the front of the trailer be a camper.
I've seen guys put slide in campers and pop-ups on the front of trailers. I've owned a pop-up and it isn't for me and the slide in campers look out of place on a trailer and take up a ton of space. I'd like to make an insulated box for the front of the trailer 10 or 12 feet long by 96" or 102" wide depending on how the trailer lays out. Basically it'll be like having a half enclosed trailer. My question is.... Where can I buy insulated panelling? I've seen 3M Nidacore and a few others but they're like 400.00 for a sheet. I plan to build a frame for the enclosure out of aluminum angle. It has to be rigid enough to be lifted off the trailer with a fork lift. What do camper manufacturers use and how do I get it? Is this something I can buy at a camper dealer? Should I just glue .045 aluminum sheet to foam insulation? Ideas?
 
Most campers are insulated with stryrofoam, it's light and easy to work with, and fairly cheap. Why not look at a bumper pull and set it on a fifth wheel trailer? Only downside is entrance door high on side. Look into old U-haul box or similar, structure is already there and maybe a little aerodynamic. You might be money ahead to buy a older camper to rob the components from rather than new. Everything in a camper is controlled by 12volts, fridge, roof AC and water heater. even though they also use 110 to run. When you start pricing grey,black,fresh tanks it really starts getting pricey and the sizes for app are a lot of choices.
 
I've thought about an old U-haul box, it might be a little tall but that can be fixed easy enough. Even better would be a small refrigerated box like a neese's sausage truck. I assume they are insulated?

I'm not sure about the appliances yet. I know I'll want a small fridge, microwave, AC, and lights. All of which could be run of a standard generator that I mount under the deck of the trailer.

The water tank thing could be a problem. I hadn't really put much thought into them till you said that. I really want the unit to be self contained so it can just be unhooked and lifted off the deck of the trailer. The tanks would take up useable space if I were to mount them in it and under the deck by the generator they would have to be hooked and unhooked everytime I take it off the trailer. That could get messy.
 
i have thought about the same thing... I was thinking about placing a removable floor section on the front middle of the trailer. When I needed the deck space I would put the floor in, when I was using the camper I would take the floor out and the tanks would drop through the center of the deck. The trailer would still have all the crossmembers installed, just a section of missing decking.

You could also put the tanks up inside the box, with some detailed design work there would be enough room. Finding a cheap old camper is definitely a good idea though.

Now I just need to lengthen the trailer, and get/build the box.
 
Styrofoam was what my popup is insulated with, hopefully you figure out something cause i wanna see this shit!! :popcorn:
 
Chris, in my opinion a stove and oven is useless in a camper. We have a convection microwave and a hot plate. Hot plate takes up very little space and we have been using one for camping for years. We also carry a electric griddle so you can cook out or in. This covers everything as far as breakfast pancakes, eggs,bacon,sausage and HOT DOGS.

Grey tanks sit as low as possible and as close to the shower as possible. That is where you will use the most water the quickest. In a lot of campers you step up into the shower because of this reason. Sinks are mounted high to begin with. Start with the shower in design! Black water is next, some toilets are raised and are above the B tank for this reason.

Fresh water tank can be anywhere, standing vertical if needed. You fill it before you leave and it should last till you get back(hopefully) Pack every gallon and then some! You can do multiple fresh water tanks as long as they will self level. Another thing to think about is weight distribution! When you have it loaded on the trailer, it needs to be balanced for the curves in the hwy! In some of the well built campers the tanks are in the middle and level don't effect the balance full or empty. Then you also have the vents to all the tanks through the roof.

Electricity is another thing for concern, don't be the ground when you walk up and grab the metal door knob! 12volt can be managed fairly easy, we have changed out nearly all of ours to LED and battery's last a long time now. You can make some really inexpensive sinks from SS resturant steam pans! Let me know if I can help you. EVERYTHING that goes into a camper needs to be square to conserve space!
 
Get outa' my head!:) I am glad this idea is getting bounced around, cause I am planning one too.

`I am parting out a camper that a tree limb killed. Bought it back from the insurance co. for less than the price of a new AC unit. I would think there are plenty of newer campers that are insurance totals, rotted walls, hail damage, etc... to pull all the good stuff out of. I priced all the furnishings online and it gets stupid quick. A busted up camper thats clean inside is the cheap way to deck it out.

`Like hot dog said, I aint worried about the kitchen other than a small sink, fridge, a microwave and some cab space. A 2 burner propane cooker, grill and a electric gridle outside will suit me fine.

`I have been considering the grey storage tank. For sink and shower water (at a race course) I think a 3" collapsible pump discharge hose run under the trailer or out into the woods, would get it done. A tank is obviously mandatory if you are in a campground or on asphalt.

`The nasty tank hung under the trailer presents a issue if you take the camper off the deck. I am thinking if you used alignment pins/dowels to locate the body in the same spot every time, you could use a rubber funnel shape boot on the inlet to the tank and a stubbed pipe to go down into it thru the deck. After you hook it up, tighten a worm clamp around it where the pipe slides in. Or, just use a chemical potty.

`We built a enclosed race trailer a few years back and used the 3/4 blue sytrofoam insulation. Worked good and relatively cheap. Also looked at some sunroom panels that are finished on both sides and insulation is sandwiched between. They drop into channels. Look nice, but would be hard to repair if damaged.

`Definantly want the awning.

`Water tanks are cheap and you can stash them under the couch, dinette, cabinets, etc... and tie them together.

`Chris, I like the aluminum angle idea for weight, but what are you gonna attach the interior wall to? Would have to be tube or channel to have 2 mounting surfaces. Another issue is matching the thickness of the walls compared to the normal mounting depth of camper windows, vents, and doors.

`My buddy Joe suggested using the steel studs they build house walls with. Light, strong, have wire holes in them, etc...

`I am not planning on running 12 volts or gas into the camper. The genset or power cord will power it all. Hang a few of those battery powered led lights for times when you just want to crawl into it and go to sleep. Most places I go will be less than 7 or 8 hours, if you plug in the camper overnight before you leave, the fridge will still be cold when you get there.

`Not sure yet if I want an observation/storage deck up top.

`Thinking about a work station on the rear of the camper with a flip up section that will be a roof when its up. Like the flip up rear window on a camper top but on a bigger scale. have room for a tool box, lights, storage, air, 110v power, work bench, vice, etc... all recessed a couple of feet into the back wall.

`Thought about using turnbuckles to tie it down. Maybe from a eyebolt at the floor/base to the trailer rail.
 
here ya go
Toy-Hauler-Swamp-Buggies-03-lg.jpg
 
Yep Brandon thats pretty much what I'm planning. Little longer than I'd like but thats the idea.

Tom as far as interior walls, there won't really be any. It'll strictly be a box with maybe some cabinets and a bed inside. They will be attached to the floor. If you mean how will I attach the interior panel of the walls, thats why I'm looking for paneling thats insulation sandwiched between two thin layers of aluminum or fiberglass sheeting. like this.....
Insulated_metal_wall_panel.jpg
That way everything could be framed on the outside to seal the corners and seams and would need no interior framing. This stuff is aluminum sheating so I'd be able to use small self tapping screws to attach anything I want on the inside. Obviously it wouldn't really support weight, the floor would have to hold the load of cabinets and what not but I could attach the back of them to keep everything solid.

For windows I'm thinking I could use face mount. They have a lip all the way around that sits against the outside wall and screw to it. I could use rtv or just caulk to seal them.

I do want an observation deck up top. Might even have to make the frame out of steel to support the weight. Also may have to make the floor of the deck not be the roof of the camper too. I could have the corner poles extend above the ceiling and mount a frame to stand on to the top of them.
 
Good stuff!

I am thinking about using the pre-painted sheetmetal on the outside like everybody uses on enclosed trailers. Blue stryofoam insulation since it is pretty darn cheap and easy to work with. Galvanized steel studs (like sheet rock walls use) for the walls. Frame the outer dimensions with a medium wall 2x4 steel frame. I like your idea about a deck over the actual roof for a observation deck. It would help protect the waterproofing seams and the AC unit. Add some fold up hand rails and you are in bizness. I guess I plan on making mine fairly civilized inside, since I have all the camper cabinets, doors, bathroom stuff, tanks, and furniture. Momma dont like camping (No hair dryers), so I figure the more it looks like a motel room, the better! :D If it were just me, a hot shower and a cot would be all I would want.
 
Word of advice.... Shim the walls with wood. I have seen a couple of the trailer converisons that sweat on the inside in the winter and in the outside in the summer from the outside temps transfering through. The wood stops this from happening........
 
You mean between the steel stud and the outside or inside panel? I was thinking about using beaded paneling on the interior walls. Would that be enuff or need the extra layer of wood shims?
 
On the inside of the stud between that and the inside wall. Not sure of the correct answer on the paneling.
 
Tom as far as interior walls, there won't really be any. It'll strictly be a box with maybe some cabinets and a bed inside. They will be attached to the floor. If you mean how will I attach the interior panel of the walls, thats why I'm looking for paneling thats insulation sandwiched between two thin layers of aluminum or fiberglass sheeting. like this.....
Click to expand...

I've thought about something similar and like you I was thinking an aluminum angle frame but interior wise I was thinking of fitting 1"x1" wood studs in the angle and then skinning the interior with some type of veneer paneling from lowes. Then of course Styrofoam sheets cut to fit for insulation. That way you could run wiring and supply plumbing in the wall and your exterior walls would be like 1 1/2" thick max.
 
Gonna be fun to see how everybody does their different style of builds.
I have access to an old 40 foot high scissor lift with a 20' expanding platform and outriggers... Talk about an observation deck!:flipoff2: We use it for a tree stand with a camoed hut built on it. Natural born killers!
 
Chris you may want to message bigben75ford I think he has set up you have in mind,that's if he still thinking about selling...
 
Chris, check out Asheville area Craig's list. Scroll down in the RV section until you see some tanks inverters and so on for sale. There is an older guy that scraps out RV's and has about anything you might want.

I like the aluminum idea. For the main support though I would use channel instead of angle.
If I were building it, I would start with a base plan to incorporate The Black water, gray water, and fresh water tanks.
With the fresh water tank, it can be anywhere, but you still want it as low as possible to keep the weight low. One of the best places I have seen it located is under the bed.
The Gray water tank could be two tanks. one smaller to catch the gray water, with a pump to pump it into a larger one. The black water tank has to be lower than the toilet. Of course, raising the toilet and have it sitting on top of the black water tank just makes sense.
With the frame built, tanks installed you can build the rest from the ground up.
After this part is done, I would say the electrical would be next. Running all the wires for the lights, switches and so on.
As Terry noted, you can do with out the stove and oven. A Micro wave and toaster oven, a hot plate, and you are golden. You could even go with a propane camp stove. A three way or two way fridge can be had cheap, unless you just want to deal with a cooler/ice and so on.
Regardless of if you use a window unit AC or a top mounted AC, you just have to plan and wire for it.
As far as heat goes, a buddy heater or a big buddy would be the simplest and cheapest. I would put it in a location so as you could run a hose to a BBQ tank accessible from the outside.These heaters are safe in that they will kick off if knocked over, or if they detect low O2.
Insulation I have seen both Styrofoam and fiberglass and a combination of the two. IF you use Styrofoam, you can cut to fit, and then fill any voids with DOW spray in insulation. It doesn't expand like the yellow stuff(great stuff) and easier to work with. It will also keep the Styrofoam from shifting and keep it quiet.
Do use a stove vent to pull out cooking and fuel fumes(propane) they can be had in the 12 volt variety.
You can wire it so as to use two different systems, 12 volt and 120 AC. Or use an inverter. Make an accessible place to put your batteries. You can use one, two or three or more, but I have not had an issue with the one I have but do wish I had room for another.
As was said, going the extra expense and using LED lights, will save on Battery usage. You would only need the Generator for Microwave, coffee maker, toaster oven, AC or hot plate.
put as many cabinets as you can fit, at least one closet, and as much counter space as you can fit in it.
Make the ceiling taller then you are, on a up step.
Put the lights to the sides, not in the middle.
Make concessions to have an awning on the rear over the door. Sure is nice to have shade and shelter from rain.

In typing this I had in idea. if you could find a bus, you could cut the desired length off the back, sit it on skids so you can tie it down or lift it with a fork lift or loader to take it on and off. You would already have a really good rigid structure, that is double walled and insulated too.

Another idea would be to find a larger sleeper from a semi truck.

Too many ideas popping through my mind.

The biggest thing you HAVE to do, is make a build thread! I wanna see it happen.
 
Thanks for all the info Chip. The thought of a double sleeper from a big rig is actually a good thought. Already laid out well enough for what I'd need and complete. I would just need to find a way to make it look cool. It also shouldn't be a big deal to make a panel in place of where the back of the trucks cab would have met it. If I'm not mistaken sleepers usually do have a large hole where they met the cab right? I'll look into that and see what I can find.

I had planned on building the whole trailer but may have lined up a 20 or 22 ft deckover that a buddy has. If it works out I may end up needing to make the camper part a little smaller than I had planned. A sleeper could be perfect.
 
" I would just need to find a way to make it look cool"... Leave it hooked to the long nose kenworth it came from?
 
KW Aerodyne sleepers are 60", 72" and 86" long. Width is right at 8 feet. The 60' long are the older ones.
ai24.photobucket.com_albums_c24_379Peterbilt379_imag02322_1_1_1.jpg
These have some room to stand up in front of the bed, a little "Studio" which contains a spot for a microwave, tv, closet and some storage. Typicaly a twin XL mattress, which is a little longer than a normal twin. You can get sheets at the truck stops for them. I would put my camper door in the front cut out. You wont like crawling through the rabbit hole to get in or out. Mount a camper a/c or window unit and you would be good to go. Or... Just put a camper top on the Dodge and go bumper pull.

I was looking at doing this too. Here are some average local used prices. Of course, you have a neighbor in the bizzness.


awww.buyandselltrucksleepers.com_zoose_zoose_data_buyandsell_images_main_453.JPG

This one is 800.00


awww.buyandselltrucksleepers.com_zoose_zoose_data_buyandsell_images_main_352.JPG

This one is 1600.00
 
Just buy Slade's.

Taking the camper on and off sounds like a huge PITA.
 
Taking camper off could be easy with forklift depending on length.

If interested in truck sleeper, take a look at yagers builds here or on pirate. He has started one.

Biggest thing i see for a sleeper on a goose, itd be backwards if door is it cutout. Would make it less aerodynamic.

If u keep an eye our, i have seen boxes from uhaul/box trucks for sale.

I found a 24' box for $1k at one point.

If i could find a big enough version of that, could park the rig in it too.

A have also ran across 40-53' enclosed trailers for cheap. Thought bout them, shortening/lowering/converting to bumper pull/changing axles on it. Most the cheap ones have old split rims.

Could possibly use the 5th wheel from them with a open chassis/flat bed truck.

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