Throttle cable help

Baker

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2010
Location
Suffolk, VA
I've got a '78 CJ5. I swapped in an AMC 360 with stock motor mounts and am running a Holley Sniper EFI kit. The stock throttle cable won't reach the throttle body, I bought a universal kit but it keeps sticking and eventually snaps the cable. I've replaced it twice already. What are some ideas to solve this issue for good. I'll try and upload some pics when I get home so y'all can see what's going on. Thanks for the help.
 
I've used a mid 80's E350 throttle cable on a YJ with a 360 before. It had Holley ProJection btw.
Cheap and long throttle cable.
 
You sure it's sticking and it's not that you are running oro of throw and snapping because the cable is too short for the pedal to hit the stop?
 
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The last time I broke the plastic piece that holds it in the pedal so this was a trail fix to get it home. It's not snapping the cable like it's too short it's more like its rubbing on something and getting dirt in it or something and eventually breaks. Also when I'm flexing a good bit the throttle cable seems to be getting pulled because it'll rev up.
 
The angle at the bulkhead is not good. You want the pull at both ends to be as straight as possible. I would fix that bracket on the carb so it is a straight pull and not angled. Also, dont leave that sloppy pin in the throttle linkage on the carb. If you don't have the right stud (can be had at parts store), double nut a bolt through the linkage so you have a fixed stud and let the cable pull on it. As for the cable, I would run a longer cable and loop it to reduce the bend at the bulkhead, bends and severe angles are what kill the cables.
 
The angle at the bulkhead is not good. You want the pull at both ends to be as straight as possible. I would fix that bracket on the carb so it is a straight pull and not angled. Also, dont leave that sloppy pin in the throttle linkage on the carb. If you don't have the right stud (can be had at parts store), double nut a bolt through the linkage so you have a fixed stud and let the cable pull on it. As for the cable, I would run a longer cable and loop it to reduce the bend at the bulkhead, bends and severe angles are what kill the cables.

Ran into a similar issue when I installed the TBI on my 304... used a longer cable (assume I asked for something from a CJ?) with a loop and fabbed a riser (orange) for the fixed end on the block to get the cable aligned for a straight pull...
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