Likely they are seized in the metal sleeve inside the bushing.
Torch is not a bad idea, dunno if 'pane will get hot enough to break up the corrosion between the sleeve & bolt- it will get hot enough to catch your shackle bushing on fire though. Be careful.
If you've got new bolts, cutting isn't a big deal (I'd use a sawzall).
My process for seized fasteners that just CAN'T be simply replaced:
1. PB blaster. All over.
2. Breaker bar or impact, judement call based on what might snap and penalty for snapping (weldnuts in the frame, etc).
3. Once you get the smallest bit of movement, the day is yours. If you can't get any, might be time for the blue wrench.
4. Work the fastener back and forth, 1-3 threads at a time, between each time driving the fastener in and out spray some PB on the shank. If you can access the back of the fastener, spray some there too.
5. Be patient, move the fastener a little at a time. You should see the amount the bolt/stud will move start to increase and it should get easier to move. Don't get greedy though. Nothing hurts your feelings worse than getting a fastener 1/2 way out then snapping it.
6. There are various other little tricks like heating a fastener until its glowing then immediately cooling it down with something that has a high flashpoint, welding a nut to the top of a shank where the bolt head has sheared (or you have a seized stud) but doesn't sound like that's what you need.
But when it comes to fasteners, its become my SOP to just buy new ones and cut the old ones out where possible. I'll gladly spend 1-2$ on a bolt to save 2 hours of frustration, and a decent local shop will have plenty of grade 8 or 8.8 fasteners.
ALWAYS think about what you're doing and what's near what you're working on (fuel lines/tank) before you put a torch to a vehicle and be prepared to deal with what might happen (bushing catching on fire, etc).