Tips on removing frozen shackle bolts

ajbirkennewaccount

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Location
Raleigh
Trying to replace the goofy 7" long shackles on my CJ.

Two of the bolts are stuck in the spring bushing. I am beating the hell out of them with a BFH, but progress is slow. They are not bearing any weight so they are not bound up because of that.

There has to be an easier way!

Thanks in advance.
 
^^^ works like a charm
 
Likely they are seized in the metal sleeve inside the bushing.

Torch is not a bad idea, dunno if 'pane will get hot enough to break up the corrosion between the sleeve & bolt- it will get hot enough to catch your shackle bushing on fire though. Be careful.

If you've got new bolts, cutting isn't a big deal (I'd use a sawzall).

My process for seized fasteners that just CAN'T be simply replaced:

1. PB blaster. All over.
2. Breaker bar or impact, judement call based on what might snap and penalty for snapping (weldnuts in the frame, etc).
3. Once you get the smallest bit of movement, the day is yours. If you can't get any, might be time for the blue wrench.
4. Work the fastener back and forth, 1-3 threads at a time, between each time driving the fastener in and out spray some PB on the shank. If you can access the back of the fastener, spray some there too.
5. Be patient, move the fastener a little at a time. You should see the amount the bolt/stud will move start to increase and it should get easier to move. Don't get greedy though. Nothing hurts your feelings worse than getting a fastener 1/2 way out then snapping it.
6. There are various other little tricks like heating a fastener until its glowing then immediately cooling it down with something that has a high flashpoint, welding a nut to the top of a shank where the bolt head has sheared (or you have a seized stud) but doesn't sound like that's what you need.


But when it comes to fasteners, its become my SOP to just buy new ones and cut the old ones out where possible. I'll gladly spend 1-2$ on a bolt to save 2 hours of frustration, and a decent local shop will have plenty of grade 8 or 8.8 fasteners.



ALWAYS think about what you're doing and what's near what you're working on (fuel lines/tank) before you put a torch to a vehicle and be prepared to deal with what might happen (bushing catching on fire, etc).
 
I have had good luck with cutting both ends of the bolt off, pry the shackle apart. if you can get the sleeve on a hard surface, like a vice, you will be able to beat the bolt out. The rubber bushing absorbs too much of the impact to beat it out on the truck.
 
Thanks,

PB is definitely the best stuff and I have used a whole can on these things.

I can get them to turn (very slowly and it feels like they are rubbing on the bushings), but they won't budge out of the bushings. I don't think that there are any sleeves in there and they are somehow stuck to the bushings.

The bushings do absorb too much impact from the BFH.

The last time I had this problem with some bushings on a 74 pickup I did have to actually melt the bushings with the propane torch to get them out.

We'll see.
 
I recommend this
awww.dewalt.com__ProductImages_PC_Graphics_PHOTOS_DEWALT_TOOLS_LARGE_3_DW304PK_2.jpg


Bolts and bushings are cheap and easy to replace. Plus, you will know you are starting out with a good setup.
 
I was going to suggest copious amounts of Pb and an impact too. You mentioned pane but if you're like me and don't have a real torch you'll find MAP gas will burn a little hotter.
 
If a torch isnt available you can rin a good drill bit running it through the rubber a few times and usually it will crumble out.

Of course I am assuming you are planning on going back with new bushings/bolts...
 
Adam,
the Sleeves are probibly spinning inside of the rubber. I have had this happen many times.

Sawzall will due the trick just cut the bolts, then replace the bushings
 
If a torch isnt available you can rin a good drill bit running it through the rubber a few times and usually it will crumble out.
Of course I am assuming you are planning on going back with new bushings/bolts...

x2
I tried the burning them out (fire,fire,fire), but it made way too much stanky smoke. Plan B was to drill out the rubber, worked like a charm.
 
Since when does smoking rubber stink??????? Brake fluid also works to break up and remove corrosion as well as Marvel mystery oil. I've got old siezed up motors to break free after dumping either of the above in the cylinders.
 
if the shackles are in the back of the CJ, be very careful of the gas tank if you use fire. My CJ and many others I know of have had or do have gas leaks, so be careful.

If your unsure, just drill out the rubber, it works great
 
I drilled mine out way back when. Works good and not dangerous.
 
*profanity*

Seriously.
Every job requires some amount of cussing before it can be done. You just haven't hit the requisite amount yet.
 
*profanity*
Seriously.
Every job requires some amount of cussing before it can be done. You just haven't hit the requisite amount yet.

Exactly.

I had already wrestled the front ones a few months ago so they were easy to do (they weren't easy a few months ago!).

This gave me a false sense of security and blurred my memory of what a PITA it was and I wanted to "just knock these out real quick!"

I am happy with the stance and man does it handle better with shorter shackles in the front and better caster!
 
Back
Top