Tips on sealing a 22R timing chain cover

mommucked

mommucked

Endeavoring to persevere
Joined
Sep 26, 2011
Location
Rural Apex n.c.
92 22re, bleeding oil everywhere from a very poor job by previous owner. I've done this before w/o removing the head. I made my own head/timing gasket then and it didn't leak. Any advice/tips/tricks are welcome.
 
It's 92 2wd, Can the oil pan be removed w/o lifting the motor? The front of the head gasket is gone, replaced by only black rtv. I'm starting to think pulling the engine would make the job a whole lot easier and effective as I could sit in a chair and work instead of rolling around in a soon to be filthy gravel driveway even if I try to put plastic down to catch all the washed off shit. It was driven for a few years w the badly leaking cover and the engine is covered in oil and crud.
 
mommucked said:
It's 92 2wd, Can the oil pan be removed w/o lifting the motor? I'm starting to think pulling the engine would make the job a whole lot easier and effective.
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I think the cross member is fixed in place and prevents removal of the oil pan without lifting the engine. It may be possible to lower the pan enough to not smear the sealer though. Probably is easier to fix it with it out and on a stand.
 
Make sure the bolt that goes down under the dizzy gear is tight. If not it will leak like a bitch. Other than that just clean everything really well and RTV or FIPG away.

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If you have a manner to remove the engine, it's definitely be easier to work, but man that's a PITA... having to remove exhaust and such.
Oh wait if the head is off allready you're mostly there.

But really you only need to drop the oil pan an inch.

The grey Permatex is key, or even better, go to Toyota and get a tube of their FIPG. Great stuff, it cures but never fully hardens. It's what you're supposed to use on the oil and trans pans anyway.
 
An anaerobic gasket sealer rated for oil contact is the preferred product for this. Permatex, Hylomar, 3Bond, Devcon and some other companies all make products like this, and I believe I've heard that 3Bond makes both Hondabond and the Toyota FIPG. Anaerobics are used in tons of places in OEM assembly, for very good reasons.

The special party trick of anaerobics is that they only cure in the absence of air (that's what anaerobic means) so they will cure between mating surfaces but not in free air, and any uncured liquid can disperse in the oil. Then you won't have RTV blobs in your oil pump. Usually you can put anaerobic-sealed parts into service within a hour or few hours depending on the product and application thickness (that's why OEMs like it, and because of the oil dispersion).

If you use RTV, make sure it's rated for oil contact and let it dry for a day or two before filling with oil. Else you may have blobs of semi-cured RTV in your oil.
 
Instead of yanking the whole engine, just pull the radiator to get to the front of the engine easier. Like was said above, drop the oil pan about an inch so you can "slide" the timing cover up to the head. If there isn't enough room to drop the pan an inch, unbolt the motor mounts and put a floor jack under the bellhousing to raise the engine from the crossmember enough.
 
Thanks for the advice, the shadetree is still trying to get the damn bolt out of the crank when he has time to mess w it. The rad. is out and it looks like I can stick an extension through the grill and use an impact to break or loosen the seized bolt I think was over torqued. I've tried hard and think the head of the bolt will snap off before it unscrews. The last time I did a 22r I just skimmed toyota TC gaskets w the black permatex (i think) and made one to replace the head gasket/tc joint w gasket material. I'm pretty sure I also put a gob of sealer at the 4 corners. Can a broken balancer bolt be drilled and tapped w the crank in the engine?
 
^^ yes, if there is room - but boy what a PITA that will be. That is a large diameter bolt. I sure as hell would not want to do it.
 
RatLabGuy said:
^^ yes, if there is room - but boy what a PITA that will be. That is a large diameter bolt. I sure as hell would not want to do it.
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Well, you could also weld a nut on the bolt after the head is off and theoretically as long as tension was only set up with the clamping of the damper, it should turn right out..
 
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